Chanel F/W 2018.19 Paris - Page 3 - the Fashion Spot
 
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06-03-2018
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So much better than it's been in a long time. Some really great - especially BLACK - pieces.

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06-03-2018
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Well I certainly don't envy the cleanup crew lol

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07-03-2018
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I don't know why but I loved it. Hair and Make-Up where everything.

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07-03-2018
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His best collection since Havana. Everything is perfect. It's simple but done really well. You need someone like Karl to pull it off. The set for once doesn't feel overwhelming compared to the clothes. No gimmicks pure beauty.

The outerwear is gorgeous and I love how flattering everything looks.

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07-03-2018
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After having learned this are in fact real centenary trees, i do not think I'm as enamoured of the scenery as I was. Totally unnecessary.

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/...ironmentalists


Last edited by Les_Sucettes; 07-03-2018 at 10:37 AM.
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07-03-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Les_Sucettes View Post
After having learned this are in fact real centenary trees, i do not think I'm as enamoured of the scenery as I was. Totally unnecessary.

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/...ironmentalists
It's criminal. McQ did a similar set for FW 2012 and it was much more ecological (also, stellar collection).


vogue.com

The collection seems so toned down, minimal and "old timer" that I have a hard time believing it was 100% designed by Karl.

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07-03-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Les_Sucettes View Post
After having learned this are in fact real centenary trees, i do not think I'm as enamoured of the scenery as I was. Totally unnecessary.

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/...ironmentalists
Oh please, that's nothing. Remember when they shipped that Iceberg from Sweden? Or the jungle arena they created? A few little tree's this season is nothing to fuss about.





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08-03-2018
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Fashion is very out of touch in this sense, in highlighting the excess - even at the time of global concern over nature. All of this just for the sake of publicity and competition. Just imagine the amount of waste one Chanel show generates, as all of that goes to the trash heap the next day. And Chanel is not the only one to do that.

This show made me think about the beautiful show Olivier did for Nina Ricci: The stage was set in the park and the trees in the park were showing in the background. It was just as beautiful as the Chanel one but not a single tree was taken down for that, and in Olivier's case also the fashion was high-quality and made an impact we can still remember. Same cannot be said for Chanel, and that's why they will probably continue with the elaborate sets, to distract people from questioning the designs.

The world really needs more Oliviers, or Phoebes or Helmut Langs - just great fashion in plain settings, nothing more.

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08-03-2018
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^^
I'm sorry but i find the "distract people from questioning the designs" quite unfair and overplayed. If anyone decide to not pay attention to the clothes, that's up on him/her. Personally, with Chanel, i always pay attention to the clothes and i never forget that the setis only a part of the story telling/branding...etc.

I'm always surprised by people criticizing Chanel for being the same when in fact it has never pretended to be anything different. The changes doesn't have to be drastic...It could be a new shoulder, a new technique, a detail..etc. That's what i believe TFS was meant to be about. To elevate the conversation towards that.

The reason why i mention this is because at the same time, we (myself included) are willing to worship any designer in the "anti-fashion" movement who is doing that exact thing. Nobody complains for Yojhi not having drastic changes each seasons. It's always black and architectural. Helmut Lang was mostly about more of the same...Yes, if we compare wht he did in 1986 when he presented for the first time in Paris and a 1992 collection, the change is drastic but for a longtime, it was very subtle.

The same for Margiela at Hermes. Nobody can say that each season, he reivented himself, even if he did IMO.

And it's a bit unfair to compare Chanel and Nina Ricci by Olivier. DIfferent scales. And, even if the set was ethereal, please believe me that everything in that show was bad fpr the environment. The show was held in a park but their was a whole Machina to help the whole thing work. The trash trunk were full!

And i'm sorry if i'm insensitive but i think the set was great, it worked and it was fun, as usual. The reality is that the fashion industry and most of the industries are not good for our environment.

That doesn't justify what Chanel did but everything will be recycled and 100 trees will be implanted again.

It's a false debate as long as they went to a source where they were allowed to cut trees.

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08-03-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
^^
I'm sorry but i find the "distract people from questioning the designs" quite unfair and overplayed. If anyone decide to not pay attention to the clothes, that's up on him/her. Personally, with Chanel, i always pay attention to the clothes and i never forget that the setis only a part of the story telling/branding...etc.

I'm always surprised by people criticizing Chanel for being the same when in fact it has never pretended to be anything different. The changes doesn't have to be drastic...It could be a new shoulder, a new technique, a detail..etc. That's what i believe TFS was meant to be about. To elevate the conversation towards that.

The reason why i mention this is because at the same time, we (myself included) are willing to worship any designer in the "anti-fashion" movement who is doing that exact thing. Nobody complains for Yojhi not having drastic changes each seasons. It's always black and architectural. Helmut Lang was mostly about more of the same...Yes, if we compare wht he did in 1986 when he presented for the first time in Paris and a 1992 collection, the change is drastic but for a longtime, it was very subtle.

The same for Margiela at Hermes. Nobody can say that each season, he reivented himself, even if he did IMO.

And it's a bit unfair to compare Chanel and Nina Ricci by Olivier. DIfferent scales. And, even if the set was ethereal, please believe me that everything in that show was bad fpr the environment. The show was held in a park but their was a whole Machina to help the whole thing work. The trash trunk were full!

And i'm sorry if i'm insensitive but i think the set was great, it worked and it was fun, as usual. The reality is that the fashion industry and most of the industries are not good for our environment.

That doesn't justify what Chanel did but everything will be recycled and 100 trees will be implanted again.

It's a false debate as long as they went to a source where they were allowed to cut trees.
Where did I criticize Chanel for "being always the same"? Nowhere. I actually appreciate the timeless aspect of Chanel, and I value them for being one of the few houses with a true DNA and longevity. It can be argued wether they use that DNA and resources in the most relevant and updated sense, though. I find Chanel clothes a bit dusty in the way they are made and finished, and I actually find most of the clothes slightly ridiculous and kitschy - especially those from the "themed" resort collections.

As for the set, of course any fashion show will produce waste and use resources, just like our daily lives do. I think the point here is that careless attitude Chanel demonstrates by cutting down trees for vanity at a time when human interfering with nature is a hot topic, or by popularizing the use of PVC in their collections at a time when all use of plastic should be stopped altogether. A house like Chanel is influential at the high street, and their actions can cause a worldwide boom for harmful products, such as plastic clothing and accessories. That's not good.

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08-03-2018
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^^
I kinda enlarged my point from questioning the quality of the designs to the recurrent criticism that I see each time about Chanel because I felt that it was linked.

Everything you said as far the set here, I totally agree with it but the thing is that I feel like a total hypocrite if I call out those actions or even products because I like those sets, I like those silly things that fashion produce and at the end of the day, a lot of people are consumers and feed into these kind of excess.

For me environment and the fashion industry are two things that doesn’t match, no matter how we try, pretend to try or anything.

What I find was very weird about the critic from the organization is that they are saying that Chanel is pretend to be green when it’s them who are making this assumption.

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08-03-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post

That doesn't justify what Chanel did but everything will be recycled and 100 trees will be implanted again.

It's a false debate as long as they went to a source where they were allowed to cut trees.
Just because you are allowed to do something does not make it right, the fur trade, hunting and bullfighting are allowed and people are within their right to protest against it. And debate is what makes things change. Cutting fully grown trees of this type to be used for a couple of hours is the type of thing that fashion stereotypes are made. And let's not even talk about the waste of energy of all the logistics involved. I'm sure Chanel has enough money to hire a team of artists to create some beautiful fake trees.

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10-03-2018
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All the looks from the Fall-Winter 2018/19 show, presented by Karl Lagerfeld at the Grand Palais in Paris on March 6th, 2018. Soundtracks: The Liminanas « Dimanche (Feat Bertrand Belin) » Courtesy of Because Music/Because Editions / Wagram Publishing The Liminanas « Ouverture » Courtesy of Because Music/ Because Editions / Downtown Music Publishing A.R Kane « Love from Outer Space » Courtesy of Luaka Bop The Liminanas « Istanbul Is Sleepy (Feat Anton Newcombe)” Courtesy of Because Music/ Because Editions / Downtown Music Publishing Erol Alkan : A Hold On Love Courtesy of Phantasy Sounds / Bucks Music Group

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13-03-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
I'm always surprised by people criticizing Chanel for being the same when in fact it has never pretended to be anything different. The changes doesn't have to be drastic...It could be a new shoulder, a new technique, a detail..etc. That's what i believe TFS was meant to be about. To elevate the conversation towards that.

The reason why i mention this is because at the same time, we (myself included) are willing to worship any designer in the "anti-fashion" movement who is doing that exact thing. Nobody complains for Yojhi not having drastic changes each seasons. It's always black and architectural. Helmut Lang was mostly about more of the same...Yes, if we compare wht he did in 1986 when he presented for the first time in Paris and a 1992 collection, the change is drastic but for a longtime, it was very subtle.

The same for Margiela at Hermes. Nobody can say that each season, he reivented himself, even if he did IMO.
Two different things. Completely different issues.

I hate their sets. Always have. Just go back to the mirror stairs, I don't care, but these "mega" sets are a joke and quite offensive. Always have. Have money to throw away? Donate it. Invest in public transportation for the attendees and have a non-destructive show in a nice new area. It is about the clothes. I hate these gimmicks around the collections: over the top styling, over the top sets, it all screams "I don't trust my own work" written all over it. The only one that made that successfully was McQueen and it had a whole deal to do with the theatrics/storytelling (and he had a few less fortunate ones too).

As for the second issue, the one quoted here, I actually miss the time when a designer meant a DNA, a "look". I'm 100% against designers changing the DNA of a "house". I like Yohji because I want that look. I know exactly what I'll get from him, from quality to design. I loved Helmut too. I love Ann and I love how the new creative team continues to work on her DNA. That is also why I hate this new Gucci. Same for Balenciaga, YSL and many others killed by new directions/changes.

Karl changed Chanel. He changed it a lot. Sure, you still have a few staples but he experimented more than I wished for that house. That is why I think this collection is one of the best of his, it's a more subtle collection, closer to the good ol' Chanel.

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