Chloé S/S 09 Paris - Page 7 - the Fashion Spot
 
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04-10-2008
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I got a good retrospective look at Phoebe Philo's collections for Chloe thanks to the poster who resurrected the threads and to be honest, they were really *unremarkable*. The problem for Philo is the level of her design calibre - with strong contemporary designers such as Haider Ackerman and Hussein Chalayan, up and coming younger teams like Preen, Erdem, Proenza Schouler, etc., all technically stronger designers eyeing that same "It Girl" niche, is she able to hold her own in this day and age? It would be interesting if she's going to be outshone by many brighter stars, the way they outdo Stella McCartney.

Paulo, for all the complaints against him fitting the "image" of the Chloe girl, is capable of delivering a competently put together collection. It would have been different from the girly Chloe dresses but still exciting with enough fashion impact to keep the label at the top. For all the comments about seeing "Marni" in his work, he offered a very different vision, one much younger and edgier and not as "Prada-wannabe", and it would have been interesting to see how far he could have gone. At the very least, the bags and shoes were desirable and saleable to the Chloe customer.

The problem with Hannah McGibbons is that she did a collection that would have been great for Uniqlo or Topshop, but no one in their right mind is going to pay Chloe $$$ for this. She is seriously out of her league - we're talking the likes of Dries Van Noten and Kenzo here. It is usually quite clear whether a designer can cut, sculpt, drape, pleat, etc., and she simply can't, from the looks of this simple, basic collection.

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Stelle Mccartney is like the poor mans Philo in terms of design ( not pricing lol) and she is turning a profit , Phoebe is a very talented woman and I think she will blow her contempraries out the water ,she knows what woman want. This collection by Hannah is a joke , those pants and shorts look like someone took a dump in them .

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its hard to say whether i like this or not based on the limited pics posted...but I guess the girl needs a chance to get into her stride before she is ctiticised too much....she must be under a considerable amount of pressure to perform and to do it quickly.

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^^ slightly crude remark disco!!!

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04-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post
I got a good retrospective look at Phoebe Philo's collections for Chloe thanks to the poster who resurrected the threads and to be honest, they were really *unremarkable*. The problem for Philo is the level of her design calibre - with strong contemporary designers such as Haider Ackerman and Hussein Chalayan, up and coming younger teams like Preen, Erdem, Proenza Schouler, etc., all technically stronger designers eyeing that same "It Girl" niche, is she able to hold her own in this day and age? It would be interesting if she's going to be outshone by many brighter stars, the way they outdo Stella McCartney.

Paulo, for all the complaints against him fitting the "image" of the Chloe girl, is capable of delivering a competently put together collection. It would have been different from the girly Chloe dresses but still exciting with enough fashion impact to keep the label at the top. For all the comments about seeing "Marni" in his work, he offered a very different vision, one much younger and edgier and not as "Prada-wannabe", and it would have been interesting to see how far he could have gone. At the very least, the bags and shoes were desirable and saleable to the Chloe customer.

The problem with Hannah McGibbons is that she did a collection that would have been great for Uniqlo or Topshop, but no one in their right mind is going to pay Chloe $$$ for this. She is seriously out of her league - we're talking the likes of Dries Van Noten and Kenzo here. It is usually quite clear whether a designer can cut, sculpt, drape, pleat, etc., and she simply can't, from the looks of this simple, basic collection.
great comment as always, Zazie. Very true.

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04-10-2008
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I don't like it.

It's awfullly unflattering on models so I can't imagine a woman wearing this.

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Paolo first collection was competent enough, no one said it wasn't a good collection, just that it wasn't "Chloe enough". I still remember the black and red prints, the edgy zippered short dresses, they would look good today. There were designers that showed promise but lacked coherence in their first collections, eg. Tisci for Givenchy, but this isn't even at the level of Escobar, the young designer for Ungaro, or the new guy at Ossie Clark, both of whom are so-so but technically, at least, delivered "designer" collections.

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04-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chloehandbags View Post
I don't think you can be referring to me, as although I know I stated that I didn't like Paulo's first two collections for Chloe (which I didn't), I don't remember saying that I specifically wanted someone from the design team at the helm, instead (partly because I wasn't particularly keen on the design team's collections before Paulo took over). I do remember being hopeful when I learnt that Hannah would be taking over, but that's a bit different, isn't it?

But, just in case I did and/or for the people who did (if anyone did, specifically, say that, I don't know?), I don't really see how people not liking this collection would mean that PMA's work was any better, or more fitting for the house, than it actually was?

Two wrongs don't make a right, after all.

Also, without seeing their solo work first, how would someone know, for sure, whether it would be better to put someone from the Philo team at the helm, or not? Any such suggestion would just amount to a desperate hope, on their behalf, for something better, rather than a surety, wouldn't it?

You really can't expect people to be clairvoyant, you know!

As for the collection, I wasn't going to comment, yet, as I wanted to wait for the full collection first, but I obviously must need 'professional psychiatric help' ( ) as although I don't like the pieces with the external scallop details much, I do prefer this collection to PMA's work for Chloe (I certainly prefer it to the first two collections, anyway) and so far, I do feel it is more relevant; both to fashion's current (or future) mood and to Chloe as a house.

Sorry!
of course i wasnt referring to you! i hope you didnt take it any personal
i was just trying to remark the fact that everyone had such a terrible reaction to PMA's work, and i thought maybe this would make them consider if his work really was that bad...
of course he was no lagerfeld, nor philo... but i always thought his work looked right for the house and that people were criticizing him jsut because he decided that the doll-dresses w/ chunky heels of the latest seasons was over.

he got fired! c'est la vie... i can only hope this gets better in the following seasons, because i've really seen nothing remarkable in the whole collection. nothing!

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Originally Posted by MulletProof View Post
great comment as always, Zazie. Very true.
Not as well-thought out and argued like your previous comments, with which I agreed wholeheartedly. You did your homework too, and I was a bit freaked out by the size of the download of the old collections!

To be honest, Hannah looks like a most likeable person, and there's a sweetness and quirkiness in the collection. I would buy some of them if they were at Zara. Sadly, they're just "nice" and "cute" basics, not designer.

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such a terrible collection. ugh i miss paulo! his collections were so fun and young and just desirable(well to me atleast) where as this collection by hannah just screams are you serious and somewhat boring. I will say that i do like some peices such as the shiny peices and tho criss cross tops but other than that seeing the whole colleciton together just doesn't seem right. i don't like it and i would rather see Paulo still designing at Chloe.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post

To be honest, Hannah looks like a most likeable person, and there's a sweetness and quirkiness in the collection. I would buy some of them if they were at Zara. Sadly, they're just "nice" and "cute" basics, not designer.
indeed. its just nice. it's like whats soo interesting about them you know.

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04-10-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post
I got a good retrospective look at Phoebe Philo's collections for Chloe thanks to the poster who resurrected the threads and to be honest, they were really *unremarkable*.

Well, that's obviously your opinion - it's clearly not mine, or the opinion of the legions of women who loved (and many who still love) Philo's work.


Quote:
The problem for Philo is the level of her design calibre - with strong contemporary designers such as Haider Ackerman and Hussein Chalayan, up and coming younger teams like Preen, Erdem, Proenza Schouler, etc., all technically stronger designers eyeing that same "It Girl" niche, is she able to hold her own in this day and age? It would be interesting if she's going to be outshone by many brighter stars, the way they outdo Stella McCartney.

Again I, personally, do not agree that the names you mention are stronger designers than Philo and whether they are technically stronger designers than Stella, or not, I still, generally, prefer Stella's work to theirs.

As disco says, I'm pretty optimistic that Phoebe will be more than capable of holding her own, especially as Stella already does.

Also, Philo will be designing for Celine, so I'm assuming that the target customer will be slightly more mature than that of the designers you mention, anyway?


Quote:
At the very least, the bags and shoes were desirable and saleable to the Chloe customer.

Not really, from what I've heard, anyway...

From what I've gathered, the last collection has been a definite improvement in terms of the appeal of the accessories to the Chloe customers that still remain (and who didn't defect to other designers after PMA's first show [as many did]), but sales were definitely way down prior to that (and I believe they still are).

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Originally Posted by disco54 View Post
Stelle Mccartney is like the poor mans Philo in terms of design ( not pricing lol) and she is turning a profit , Phoebe is a very talented woman and I think she will blow her contempraries out the water ,she knows what woman want. This collection by Hannah is a joke , those pants and shorts look like someone took a dump in them .

Stella McCartney is rapidly losing her time in the spotlight, not making waves or even talked about much at all, but her designs are still somewhat "Chloe" from the old days. Fashion's gravity seems to have shifted since Philo's days towards a more constructed, edgier, more complex,modern, less "retro-girlish" vibe....ok, maybe D2 still does it...

Even Prada is getting shunted by the buzz around the likes of Balenciaga, Rick Owens, Raf Simons, Hussein Chalayan, etc. The old Chloe "formula" wouldn't make a fashion splash, I hope Philo herself has evolved, but her old stuff are very unimpressive by today's standard.

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Originally Posted by chloehandbags View Post
Well, that's obviously your opinion - it's clearly not mine, or the opinion of the legions of women who loved (and many who still love) Philo's work.

Again I, personally, do not agree that the names you mention are stronger designers than Philo and whether they are technically stronger designers than Stella, or not, I still, generally, prefer Stella's work to theirs.
chloehandbags, I see that you're taking opposite views a bit personal, please don't. everyone's speaking for themselves here, hence the number of "I see" "I got" "I think", etc. it's really not against your own preferences.

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