Christian Dior F/W 2017.18 Paris - Page 3 - the Fashion Spot
 
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03-03-2017
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Mutterlein's Avatar
 
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THIS.


THIS is not good.

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03-03-2017
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This looks like a bastard version of "Les Copains".

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03-03-2017
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While I expect that every iteration of Dior will have a different soul and a different feeling, this reads as overly youthful, clumsy, as well as downright boring. Just who are they trying to target with this collection? As polarizing as their designs could have been, John and Raf's vision of Dior had a certain life and sophistication to it. This just feels like a funerary dirge (and I don't think that can be blamed on the minimalist palette).

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03-03-2017
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Quote:
Shade at Dior
Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri chose to focus almost exclusively on navy blue for no apparent reason.

By CATHY HORYN

March 3, 2017
3:47 p.m.

Rihanna entered the Dior show today at the Rodin Museum wearing a cute black leather beret. A few moments later, every model on designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s catwalk had on the same cute black beret, for all 68 looks.

Really, one was quite enough.

Chiuri does not do things in moderation. She said in her show notes that she was inspired by navy blue, citing various famous artists, and then delivered on her word, showing navy on navy or mixing it with black. There were a few light-blue workwear styles — a jumpsuit, jeans — and later a splash of black and gold, but then Chiuri was back to her navy period. It seemed eternal. Devoting a show to a single hue is hardly new; and black combined with navy is synonymous with Japanese fashion of the late ‘80s and early ‘90s. But Chiuri never made a case, conceptual or otherwise, for using a dominant hue, the way Rei Kawakubo or the artist Robert Ryman would have. She might just as well have chosen red.

Her designs also did not pull weight. This is Dior: A house known for immaculate tailoring, feminine joie de vivre, imagination. But much of what Chiuri has shown at Dior since she became chief designer last year looks not like French high fashion, but instead very nice Italian sportswear. Slacks, knits, utilitarian shoes. One can appreciate that she might want to reinterpret the Bar jacket, just as her predecessors, John Galliano and Raf Simons, did. But today Chiuri took the air out of it; in taffeta, it looked deflated. I wasn’t even sure it was a Bar jacket.

Image VIEW SLIDESHOW
Photo: Imaxtree
My beef with Chiuri, and why I now question whether she’s the right person to lead Dior, is that she seems exceedingly doctrinaire. If she wants to give the brand a sportier look, there are less generic options than last season’s fencing jackets or this season’s loose workwear style or a crew neck with a sheer, layered skirt. The proportions of her clothes are also very cookie-cutter — the waists of her ubiquitous ballerina dresses never seem to budge. The same with her embroidery: I feel I’ve seen the same, vaguely celestial motifs before. Like Rihanna’s beret.

In short, Chiuri’s collections do not surprise at a level you expect of Dior. That may not matter to her, but it should matter to her bosses.
http://nymag.com/thecut/2017/03/shade-at-dior.html

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03-03-2017
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Some cheap trash only sells in Kmart.

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03-03-2017
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Holy sh*t, Dior to me should be glamorous/feminine, this is the stuff of nightmares. Also, totally generic and (thankfully) forgettable.

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03-03-2017
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Cathy just snatched Maria Grazia's wig.

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03-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christian zh View Post
God, this is the only thing I can think about at the moment, I have never been this nervous in my whole life...
Same here, I have been patiently waiting for this show for the last 10 years, so to be let down like this is just depressing.



Thank you Cathy Horton for always telling the truth. Spot on review.

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03-03-2017
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Reading Cathy's review gives me so much joy. Not that it satisfying but she nails it on the head about why it should matter to her bosses. This is not some department store brand or some luxury RTW house, this is Dior.

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03-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurimas View Post
After seeing this collection it is kind a getting more obvious that Bernard Arnault probably plans to sell Dior to its competitors in the future but before that he will make sure there is enough damage to the brand. I would expect a lot better quality and design for the level of Dior prices than this. Why to pay for this if you can find the same clothes at Zara?
If only it was true...It could have been a great justification for this mess.
Unfortunately, it will never happen...As Dior owns LVMH.

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03-03-2017
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It's definitely an improvement from her first collection but I love the colour blue, so I guess I'm a bit biased with all the beautiful shades she used. That said, there are definitely some really beautiful pieces here. The whole collection kind of gave me an Armani vibe and I definitely agree with Cathy's sentiment about Maria's Dior looking more Italian than French.

For a brand like Dior, I was expecting so much more and this is quite forgettable.

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03-03-2017
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they really shouldn't let raf go, and let's guess how long Maria Grazia Chiuri can survive in the house

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04-03-2017
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Is Cathy's the harshest critic I've read as of late made to a big house? (YSL aside).

That said, this seriously on another level of bad. It's goes beyond my comprehension. I feel sorry for the people that have to work in such an uninspired environment and with such a pedestrian boss.


Last edited by Creative; 04-03-2017 at 03:09 AM.
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04-03-2017
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re-seeing the pictures the day after, it looks super grandmother style. There is no energy at all and everything is depressing. The Christian Dior woman is seductive, sharp, sensual...not a depressed one. Chiuri mistakes ready-to-wear and "mourning-wear".

If the berets would be gone and there would be a white set for the show, this collection could have been "boring ok" but everything put together makes it super boring...and ugly....and depressing.

Kudos to the stylist and set designer.

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04-03-2017
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In Mariagrazia's defense, she is trying to make clothes that women would like to wear. Raf was a genius but no one ever looked good in his clothes. I hardly believe that any of his creations ever reached the stores...

I still think she could do a nice job at Dior.

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