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04-07-2011
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wise words

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04-07-2011
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I see this as a PR nightmare for Dior. It highlights the inadequacies of Sidney Toledano's assessment of the situation, not least because I doubt a single piece of this collection will be sold to any of Dior's traditional clientele. But it will also become a blight on the houses image, even after one season its reputation is tarnishing, making the acquisition of this house to any creative successor less and less appealing, and fundamentally the task of redirecting the message of the brand that bit harder.

Whilst this all a crying a shame, I personally couldn't have wished for a better outcome. It is high time that the suits behind Dior reassess their strategy and learn by their mistakes. If they are out to play with visionaries, of which only a handful exist they must treat them with the same care and respect as an endangered species of animal, not least for their wallets but for all those who in recent months lost a little faith in fashion.

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04-07-2011
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Tim Blanks at Style.com

Quote:
You can't be down on a boy with a dream. For decades, Bill Gaytten strives under John Galliano's yoke as one of his most intimate facilitators, then suddenly fate conspires to throw him into the lead role, and he has the means to do everything he has ever wanted to do, everything he has ever bitten his tongue over. What's more, he has a team of the industry's best who have cherished him these long years for the adorable creature he is, and they are prepared to help him realize his dream: Stephen Jones with his headpieces, Jeremy Healy on beats, Michael Howells with his set design, Pat McGrath on makeup, Orlando Pita on hair. And they do this not just because they love Bill but because they want to acknowledge the achievements of his fallen master.

So what happens next?

On the evidence of today's first Dior couture show without John Galliano, what happens is a misjudged effort to impress an alien thumbprint on an aesthetic that, for better or worse, is one of the fashion industry's most clearly defined. After the show, a remarkably sanguine, even elated Gaytten was perfectly happy to celebrate the opportunity he'd been given to bring his own tastes to the fore, and they were significantly architectural: Frank Gehry, Jean-Michel Frank, the Memphis movement of the eighties. The opening outfit—a crazy-paving jacket with a ruffled collar and a full pleated skirt—kind of caught the postmodern madness of Memphis. And the subsequent parade of folded, tiered, unfinished taffeta, gazar, and organza had a similar assault-on-couture-orthodoxy vibe. There was a Bar jacket or two in the mix, acknowledging Dior's legacy, but the overriding sense was that a demon, long-contained, had been released, so that the Dior woman had suddenly been possessed by a disco dolly who, to the strains of Grace Jones, would blow out her hair and rampage to the nearest dance floor in a molto-bat-winged hostess gown that perfectly captured the campiness of cult-fave TV play Abigail's Party.

There were also echoes of one gloriously mad moment in Italian fashion when denim prophet Adriano Goldschmied produced clothes under a label he called Bobo Kaminsky, but that could hardly be considered a reference point for haute couture. The finale brought together black in a Napoleon hat, white in a crown of stars. There was one dress draped party-style in tinsel, another splattered with crystals. Then came Karlie Kloss, dressed as a Pierrot, sad clown all alone in the spotlight as the soundtrack failed and glitter showered down. But the stardust missed her by this much. And that felt like some kind of crazy cosmic metaphor.

So, once again, what happens next?

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04-07-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squizree View Post
Messy as f*ck. This is messiness of the highest order. The mother of all messes. Mess personified. So messy I want to take a shower.

The major part of me hates it because it's the silliest excuse for Haute Couture I've ever seen. They were trying to be too 'creative' and ended up with a giant mess. But a small microscopic part of me enjoys this silly chaos, it's kinda fun to look at. Kinda like looking at very colourful garbage
hahahah my thoughts exactly, this collection is a joke

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04-07-2011
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This was awful and not cohesive at all.

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04-07-2011
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I don't think it is that. bad. I'm going against the grain here but I like this sense of chaos and toomuchyoucan'thandleit that is present in this collection. I'm trying to get the big picture here, instead of just diving into the craftmanship... which, for me, it is not typical since this is a HC collection after all. It is something I can see from far and that's it. Not feeling moved by the presentation nor the craftmanship.

I can't help but thinking that this could lead for a (at least!) decent collection if they weren't trying to do so many themes at the same time...

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04-07-2011
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Granted it's not that much worse than what Galliano had been doing, but this really is embarrassing!

Did they really think they could just prop Gaytten in there to replace Galliano and everything would just be A OK? I guess they did! Ludicrous!

These clothes are abysmal, just really monstrous, no cleverness, no finesse, no vision, no taste, no story, just nothing. I suppose the initial inspiration is rather genius, Memphis design? Yes! But then NO, actually. Sure, some of the ideas at play are novel, but they are all rendered flat or just flat out retarded, filtered through this bastardization of Galliano's aesthetic, which was already a bastardization of itself before he got the sack, so it's actually worse than we think it is.

Who's managing Dior right now? Sidney Toledano? Well, looks like he better fix this soon or else Galliano won't be the only high profile employee at Dior to get the boot.

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04-07-2011
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*smacks head against the wall*

I think 99.9% of the population would agree this collection is a disaster. I really hope this opens up the eyes of the Dior house that John must come back or Dior sales and the house's reputation will plummet.

Just my two cents.


Last edited by tayloryepp; 04-07-2011 at 11:35 PM.
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04-07-2011
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Just from a business standpoint- how many people must work on the Couture team? And how many orders do you think they will have to fill the next six months?? Would it be surprising if they just suspended the Couture operation, at least for the time being??

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05-07-2011
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05-07-2011
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I do not know much about the intricacies of couture to be honest. However, just looking at this show, I guess in years past I could look at a Dior show and tell it was Dior. With this, I can't do that.

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05-07-2011
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The make-up was just wannabe John Galliano for Dior, but in the end they all looked like drag queens.

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05-07-2011
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fail, who ever inherited Dior should of tried to create his/her own vision instead of trying to imitate galliano.

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05-07-2011
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It is obvious that the entire world had zero tolerance with this ugly collection.

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05-07-2011
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O_O

Um...OK then. Uh, there are definitely a few lovely pieces here and there, but as a whole...*steps back* I must be going.

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