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02-07-2012
  196
scenester
 
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I don't get the hate, this collection is not that bad.

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02-07-2012
  197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MulletProof View Post
Wish I'd have the time to read the whole thread and read more criticism because I jumped straight to the HQs + details of the collection and anything that's in my head right now is adulation. I feel like someone has finally packed up all the notions of haute couture and brought them to present time, the tailored suits combined with all saccharine elements has not been paired with such precision and.. beauty since.. ever. I cannot remember a single designer that ventured into this 'princess gown' territory and didn't overdo it or reduced a woman to a window display on legs, or a designer that did fantastic suits from beginning to end (Yohji Yamamoto 2003) leaving little room for elements that are almost scary for all the clichés that surrounds them. Even the furry dresses here are so perfectly made that it's hard to think of a woman wearing them and getting overpowered by them and/or not looking incredible.

This seems like a follow-up to what Christian Dior was doing back in the day.. I think he'd be pleased, cause all the experiments are still happening in details, discreetly just like his work, and they're very likely evolve in the coming seasons.
Finally a reasonable comment.

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02-07-2012
  198
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I always thought people was really bad with Bill Gaytten, even though he wasn't bad at all imo, and now i think it's gonna start with Raf Simons, most of those people look like Galliano's widows after he left Dior.

To be honest i think the question is, What was Dior before Galliano ? Because he seriously left a pattern in the brand, and for those who were expecting Raf to follow that path, that was from one beginning not gonna happen. I'm not defending the collection, because in this moment idk if i like it or not, but i do find it a little boring, and i mean the whole show not only the clothes, also the music, the cast of models, the runway venue... The details of the clothes and some gowns are amazing though.

I don't know if i see much of a future for Raf at Dior.

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Last edited by models_vlada; 02-07-2012 at 03:46 PM.
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02-07-2012
  199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GivenchyAddict View Post
" i don't have the impression [...] haute couture " that's all and ** and you may see that many looks are in his last collection at Jil Sander. ***

Please see post above you. Thank you.
If it's the colors or the "styles", eg. voluminous skirts, they might resemble each other at a superficial level, but in terms of their shaping, detailing, making, etc., they're worlds apart. I have a waisted designer jacket and a vintage Bar jacket - they are completely different in the way they are constructed and sewn, even though both are similar at first glance. From afar, the effort put into the construction of the haute couture is visible, whereas the Jil Sander clothes were obviously cut from patterns and sewn on machines. The closeups reveal even more astonishing details of the making of the pieces - a combination of the designer's architectural achievements, the impeccable sewing or "couture" as well as the jaw-dropping intricacy of the details by the "petits mains". There're little black silk dresses by Zara, by Designers and there's haute couture. It could be a plain little black dress of a similar design, but the differences are there, and they're huge among the three.

This collection is not for me, but I can appreciate the couture genius, and Raf Simons is no slouch. The designs here leave no room for error. More frequently, I'd see an "haute couturier" send out a big silk satin gown with lots of flounces, glittering beads, long satin gloves with a large bow at the back that is crooked.....but because it looks and walks like a ball gown fit for a princess or a wedding, so it looks "haute couture". However, it is very crude work to me, and doesn't meet the expectations of the highest quality, or evoke the dream of the perfection that is "haute couture".

Everyone will like or dislike this collection, and that's fine. However, to be fair to Raf Simons and the hardworking and very accomplished staff at the Dior atelier, it is better to be clear about exactly what they do, and how it makes it "haute couture" or not "haute couture".

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02-07-2012
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I wasn't expecting Galliano, nothing like his Dior efforts in fact. But I wasn't prepared for this. This is about as bad as it can get if you ask me. It's absolute simplicity and no creativity. I guess this indicates the kind of direction Raf is taking and unfortunately, it isn't one I'm even mildly excited about.

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02-07-2012
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lol @ Suzy Menkes talking about the flowers for 2/3rds of a review about Raf's debut show at Dior...

I don't hate it, it feels a lot more modern than what Gaytten ever did for Dior so I definitely PREFER it but it's just completely and utterly boring. Nothing exciting. I don't want over-the-top frills and theatricality, I'm aware that haute couture isn't about that.. but I definitely want to be inspired and seeing something new..

Quote:
Originally Posted by sore View Post
i find it hilarious how lmost everybody who likes the collection hints at the archives and teaches us how very vintage dior this is. of course it is, and of course the morphing of dior's and jil's/raf's aesthetics is witty and on point, and of course raf's work is never easy to get and most of the time i need a LOT of time to digest his collections until they start growing on me, but still, there are collections by raf that just moved me: his last jil sander womens collection for example, the fw 98 or ss 05 collection for his own label and also a lot of his mid-era jil sander mens stuff.

this collection may be crafty, it may have a modern take on whatever, and it sure is extremly sophisticated and closer to the 'real' dior than galliano ever was (although i don't understand why everybody still runs after the 'realness' of a label, after decades of postmodern eclecticism). but this collection didn't make my eyes sparkle and it didn't make my mind blow. i don't need no archive to know this.
You sum up my thoughts better than I can

Quote:
Originally Posted by EstefaniaAbaddon View Post
This is just like the hating for Sarah at McQueen. Everyone says "this is not like the McQueen/Dior"... but no one really knows what McQueen or Dior were all about. Their history.
Dior is not Galliano. Dior is Dior.
I'm sorry but that is a totally different situation.............

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02-07-2012
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Elegant, strict, minimalistic and very Dior..
I love this.

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02-07-2012
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I can't agree with the people who say this is too Jil Sander and not Dior enough. There are definitely some pieces that look nearly identical to the archive. This was definitely a nod to Dior's origins and I'm curious to see how it will evolve as he injects more of his vision into the house. That aside, I love this collection so much. Everything looks so well constructed, the shapes are beautiful, the fabrics look rich, and somehow he captured everything I'd want to wear right now.

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02-07-2012
  204
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It's a bit muted, but I'm interested in where it will lead and to see this new perception develop overtime.

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02-07-2012
  205
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Classy debut , some gorgeous sensual peices, totally covetable, love this direction for Dior... Want/ need to see more close ups

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02-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shutterbug View Post
I can't agree with the people who say this is too Jil Sander and not Dior enough. There are definitely some pieces that look nearly identical to the archive. This was definitely a nod to Dior's origins and I'm curious to see how it will evolve as he injects more of his vision into the house. That aside, I love this collection so much. Everything looks so well constructed, the shapes are beautiful, the fabrics look rich, and somehow he captured everything I'd want to wear right now.
Actually This!

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Last edited by wednesdays child; 02-07-2012 at 04:22 PM.
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02-07-2012
  207
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No details?

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02-07-2012
  208
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I'll post them shortly.

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02-07-2012
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Suzy's review is possible the most accurate how you would describe this collection!

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02-07-2012
  210
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stylebistro

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