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03-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IloveDiorHomme View Post
3 words come to my mind

-boring
-safe
-boring, again


The archives of Christian Dior are so amazing, the construction of his clothes is so architectural and unique, and was avant-garde at the time.

What is avant-garde about this collection ? What is haute-couture about it ? NOTHING

Raf "LAZY" Simons gets the credit for his name, not for the quality of his work. I have attended fashion shows, and when you see wonderful pieces, your eyes shine. Like mine when I was 10 cm away from the A/W 2011 Givenchy Haute-Couture collection.

So many weak sihlouettes, come on, tailored pants with embroided tops ? It screams sales, sales, sales. Gaytton was way more better at this game. And I am kinda missing the crazyness of Galliano that would make you travel in a special universe and mesmerize you, even it was about excess and provocation. Monsieur Simons is "out at the picture" for me. As a client of his menswear line, I just miss the energy he got in the 90's with his very personnal take on garments, models, presentations.

AND I AM SO TIRED of finding excuses to those lazy designers, they have the money, the atelier and the press to approve their work even when it's irrelevant , this collection is just another proof of it...

Totally Agree!

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03-07-2012
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The beautiful interior decoration at the show. It was breathtaking!

(my photos)

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03-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IloveDiorHomme View Post
3 words come to my mind

-boring
-safe
-boring, again


The archives of Christian Dior are so amazing, the construction of his clothes is so architectural and unique, and was avant-garde at the time.

What is avant-garde about this collection ? What is haute-couture about it ? NOTHING

Raf "LAZY" Simons gets the credit for his name, not for the quality of his work. I have attended fashion shows, and when you see wonderful pieces, your eyes shine. Like mine when I was 10 cm away from the A/W 2011 Givenchy Haute-Couture collection.

So many weak sihlouettes, come on, tailored pants with embroided tops ? It screams sales, sales, sales. Gaytton was way more better at this game. And I am kinda missing the crazyness of Galliano that would make you travel in a special universe and mesmerize you, even it was about excess and provocation. Monsieur Simons is "out at the picture" for me. As a client of his menswear line, I just miss the energy he got in the 90's with his very personnal take on garments, models, presentations.

AND I AM SO TIRED of finding excuses to those lazy designers, they have the money, the atelier and the press to approve their work even when it's irrelevant , this collection is just another proof of it...
How does laziness come from purifying the house from it's previous successors? I'm not going to say I didn't like John or Bill at the house but I think over-the-top couture has officially run it's course in the house of Dior.

It's so depressing how many people can't appreciate this collection from it's subtle use of tailoring, embellishing, fabrication and color. To see a house brought back to it's core from a brilliantly talented designer is such a thing to admire. Raf knew it wasn't about him. It was about the house of Dior and what it has stood for so many decades. In a time where whacky trends are coming in one after another, Raf has made probably the most wearable couture collection in the longest time, I always knew Raf wanted to make pieces that were wearable and he shows it beautifully in his first ever Couture presentation. I don't think clients pay crazy amounts of money for over-the-top couture pieces, I think they pay it for the custom tailoring of the clothes and to look perfect in them. Galliano's over-the-top pieces were always being altered one after another. I can't see any reason why the customer would want to alter any of these clothes...

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03-07-2012
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people please stop embarrassing yourselves and stop saying this collection isn't haute couture. HC is a way of making clothes, it's not a look.

i was as disappointed with the collection as most people are in this thread, but honestly.. what was he supposed to do?
it's his first season at a label that's practically an institution and he seems to be too humble of a designer to ignore all that. he obviously wanted to respect the codes of the house in this first collection which sadly resulted into a collection that wasn't very exciting/interesting, but i really feel like this had to be done.

now that he has gone to the core of what dior represents he can now build onto it and make it his own (this also seems the way he handled designing for jil sander, the first few seasons were very careful and safe but as he grew more comfortable with his creative director position he took it to whole new levels)

i'm just happy marc jacobs didn't get the position in the end because i doubt he'd be as respectful to the house's history as raf simons has been

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03-07-2012
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I wonder if the audience were requested to keep a straightfor face regardless. Lighten up people, don't get too serious. Just fashion! There are people who are dying! Anyhow, I want to stress how much I adore this collection

Someone throw a bucket of cold water please! I need to cool off.

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Last edited by JuiceMajor; 03-07-2012 at 10:29 AM.
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03-07-2012
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For Gergin, I find him lazy because there is not a strong research on the cut, styling etc... Maybe he had a little time to prepare the collection, because he was still working for Jil Sander at the time. And you can feel it. Do I have to post pictures from the former Jil Sander shows to prove how can Raf Simons create unpredictible great silhouettes ?

And maybe I am old school, but the fashion world is full of designers who do ready to wear. Haute-Couture is art, craft, luxury and privilege. It has to make us dream.It has to stands-out, with all those thousands or annoying fashion shows where nothing happens.
This collection makes you dream ?
This collection is maybe "too subtle" and the difference between his RTW and H-C collections will be hard to find...

And to finish; I am a real Raf Simons fan, but this is not the point. I am not a hater of his oeuvre. I expect a lot from him. That's it.

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03-07-2012
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the funny thing is,in the 40's-60's,simplicity used to be a huge part of the HC context.....where the tailoring,made-to-measure approach was a focal point. it wasn't all about the ostentatious spectacle of it all. adeline andre's seems to come to mind.

honestly,i think we're being a bit too harsh at this point. it's his first collection here and one he had to put together with hardly any time. i would rather see the evolution into the P-A-P and the next HC to see how raf carves out his voice at dior before making hasty remarks about the work he's doing. for a first collection i think it's lovely.


Last edited by Scott; 03-07-2012 at 11:18 AM.
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03-07-2012
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Are there still no photos of the backs of the looks?

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03-07-2012
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I wish this show had not been live streamed on the internet.
Obviously Dior wanted to capitalise on this marketing potential with all the celebrities and the event being newsworthy. Couture is about detail and craft and quality....none of which could be seen or felt via a computer screen.

I feel haute couture, if anything in the fashion industry can be, should be about something slower, more exclusive. About a relationship between designer and atelier. Between designer and client. between cloth, fit and body.

Would it not have been enough for this have been a private presentation? In this internet age that would have been a luxury?

I wonder if people would be having a "it looks like J Crew" if they were shown images of the garments stood in a museum like space on refined mannequins.

Because a bespoke pair of John Lobb oxford shoes take 8 months to make and cost £2,500 yet resemble a traditional shape (and not a GAGA style piece of sculpture that satisfies the eye though not necessarily the wearer) mean they are not worth the money? or the awe in the craft? Or the abilities of the person who has spent their life honing that skill?

Given Raf had 4 months and he had never worked with Couture before I personally think the results are wonderful. I feel it is super relevant for the modern world. I'm so bored of fashion dramatics, that relate to the 1980's and 90's stereotypes of "FASHION". I want someone to bring us into the future and raf is certainly someone to BEGIN to do this. And begin is an important word. So funny to think people expected in 4 months someone,who built his men's line in the wilderness for 10 years, to just overhaul Dior overnight. Raf takes his time - I wonder if the internet generation can deal with that?

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03-07-2012
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03-07-2012
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Everyone's saying that this collection is good because of the craftsmanship and silhouettes, so I think we can thank the Dior atelier for being skilled dressmakers and we can thank Mr. Dior for the silhouettes. What can we thank Raf for? Aside from the atelier's work, I find this collection lacking all around. I'm not getting the big deal about the details either. What details? To me, it's boring and lacks substance.

I don't need people to tell me the definition of couture or show me the Dior archives. I'm pretty confident in my knowledge of fashion history and I think everyone in this thread can tell for themselves what they like and don't like.

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04-07-2012
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I'm sorry I know the clothes are good and very wearable and all of that but come on it's a haute couture collection. When it comes to couture I expect extravaganza, out of this world creations, craziest ideas, a show where my wildest dreams come true on the runway. This collection is beautiful, no denying that but it doesn't make me excited, or inspires me so much that I have to watch the show again and again and again like I used to do with Galliano shows.
I hope this is just the start and next collections will be exciting again!

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04-07-2012
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One question, the music was on jeremy healy?

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04-07-2012
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I must say I love this. It is so refreshing, like a lovely cleansing of the palate after the cacophony of loud, unpleasant flavors that was Galliano's more recent work, which was a parody of his earlier Dior work (I'm choosing to ignore the Gaytten interim because it was so bad).

The ultimate elegance is knowing when enough is enough and less is more and Raf understands this perfectly. I find the understatedness totally right for the austerity of our times too. Any eurotrash oligarch wife/girlfriend can pile tonnes of sequins, yards of unnecessary fabric, plus feathers, fur, leather and jewellery on every square inch of their body, but not everyone comprehends the maturity and class of minimalism done with the utmost skill and thought.

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Last edited by rox_yr_sox; 04-07-2012 at 04:37 AM.
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04-07-2012
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Ive looked at all the HQ images and saw the HD video and I've decided how I feel about this collection. Dior is dead to me now, I am moving on.
I don't find anything refreshing in this collection other than the fact that it is simple.I feel like this collection is almost an exact replica of vintage Dior looks and contrived of any real thought or direction for
Dior
and I remembered why the ball gown bodice/ evening dress over pants looks were so familiar, Alicia Keys did it few years back for some red carpet event. It was really bad back then I didn't like seeing on the runway of a Haute Couture show.


Last edited by pinkpooding; 04-07-2012 at 05:05 AM.
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