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02-07-2012
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It's irritating to hear all the remarks about this not being "haute couture"...please look the term up - it doesn't say bugle beads, rainbow sequins, 10 layers of fabrics of different colours and textures and hats the size of small chandeliers. Get the definition right before offering an opinion.

What impresses me is the way Raf Simons built up the voluminous silhouette of Dior's "New Look", a very retro 50s look but he made them modern by offering abstract versions. The construction of the shapes, and there are so many variations of them, are incredible, I would be curious to see what sort of construction and structures went underneath the pannier skirts. The other couture touch was the immaculate bodice that tightened with a non-existent corset. The materials were luxurious, though subtler than the loud decorations at other shows.

Couture isn't about over-decorated gowns, it's all about the SKILLS by accomplished designers, the expertise of the staff and the petits mains of an atelier. The result could be very simple, but the work that went into it, not.

Still, I do hope he picks up a different vibe for his next Dior collection, and redefine fashion for Dior what NG did for Balenciaga.

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02-07-2012
  92
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^indeed

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02-07-2012
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02-07-2012
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I think this collection was okay. It's really hard to get over that the theatrics of the Galliano era is over. It's difficult, for sure. But I liked this collection a lot. The tailoring and silhouettes were impeccable. I could see the stiff tailoring that Dior himself did in his day. He embraced the hourglass figure, using a small bosom, cinching it in at the waist, and then exploding at the waist and that's what Raf did here, not to mention those AMAZING peplum tops. But sadly it isn't, and never will be Galliano again.


Last edited by lepetitcouturier; 02-07-2012 at 09:06 AM.
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02-07-2012
  95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TianSoFine View Post
I can see a bit of classic Dior here but mostly a lot of Jil Sander. I know couture isn't all about theatrics and I think a lot of people are making inaccurate assumptions here that people who don't see it as very couture just think couture's about theatrics. Because I think a lot of the collection could easily pass as high-quality ready-to-wear. A lot of dresses (to me at least) don't look like a team in a studio spent 200 hours making each one.
That's my problem, too. Maybe it's because he only had 3 months left to design this. Or maybe close-ups show something different. But my first impression was: Too simple to impress me.

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02-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post
It's irritating to hear all the remarks about this not being "haute couture"...please look the term up - it doesn't say bugle beads, rainbow sequins, 10 layers of fabrics of different colours and textures and hats the size of small chandeliers. Get the definition right before offering an opinion.
But it is about hundreds of hours of work in the studio, which I'm not seeing. If it's about tailoring, okay, but it's not like we haven't seen ready-to-wear tailored at this level. I know my fashion history, tyvm, and this collection still seems quite ready-to-wear to me.

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02-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdieselx View Post
If anyone bothered checking Christian Dior's archives, then you would say it's more Christian Dior than Jil Sander. Ugh. I think it would do better if people viewed the archives. Sheesh.

Even the coats are an homage to Christian Dior!! So for that, bravo Raf.
THIS!

At least, if you're gonna act like a "fashion expert" and judge like there's no tomorrow, do your homework first.

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02-07-2012
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I don't like it it's lacking that wow factor , couture is supposed to be something more special and extraordinary

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02-07-2012
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This is simply Christian Dior.
The people that are saying that this is not Dior seriously know what Dior is?
This is the closest any designer was from the original.
The cuts are genious, that dresses are genious.
I loved the trousers because they gave a really modern touch to the colection.
I do think that this is couture, you dont need drama, crazy volume dresses and big hair and make-up to do couture. You simply need magical hands, strong hands to make something perfect. And this is pretty close from perfect!
My only problem is the way the color pallet reminds me his last colection in Jil Sander.
But what about I love about this colection is te way the dresses are so simple but I cant get enough of it, and I open and close the nowfashion tab just to see how that dress looks again. And that my friend is a show!

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02-07-2012
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That’s what you have when you use Jil Sander to vilely lobby for the main position at Dior…

It looks like a crude interpretation of what a 2 years old boy would do if he was asked to be Raf at Dior. I knew it was going to be bad, but not that bad! It just feels so forced, silly and pretentious, like if he was trying to look Dior…

I can’t get over how TERRIBLE this is.

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02-07-2012
  101
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Clean and nice but is so so similar to Jil Sander. boooring

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02-07-2012
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People was crazy about Raf working with Dior, and now all those "this is not Dior", "that's not couture"... Seems like it's much easier to bring Christian Dior himself to life than found someone who'd satisfy the tastes of audience.

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02-07-2012
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Just so we are clear: Haute Couture does not need to be theatric to be couture. Haute Couture is french for "high couture", and it's used to indicate that the clothes were hand-made by a small atelier of designers in France. Anything can be haute couture, as long as it's handmade by an atelier. It does not mean "poofy crazy gowns".

I'm not terribly excited by this collection - I'm not that excited by the cuts - but I think it's excellent for Raf's first outing. He's clearly showing his vision for the house here - what more can you expect from a designer? I'll take this over Bill Gaytten's debut any day of the week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prairie View Post
Seems like it's much easier to bring Christian Dior himself to life than found someone who'd satisfy the tastes of audience.
People would say it's absolutely dated and not fitting for modern times.


Last edited by StoneSkipper; 02-07-2012 at 09:22 AM.
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02-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TianSoFine View Post
But it is about hundreds of hours of work in the studio, which I'm not seeing. If it's about tailoring, okay, but it's not like we haven't seen ready-to-wear tailored at this level. I know my fashion history, tyvm, and this collection still seems quite ready-to-wear to me.
I could tell that it's not R-T-W, as each piece appears to use non-standard tailoring, this is not those "Oscar de la Renta" big skirts. It doesn't look like the typical pannier either, Raf Simons might have invented his own model, this is my guess though. Needs to be investigated up-close. The innards of the garment is as important as the exterior shell.

Haute couture is also about the fit when customized for the client, and the way these pieces were fitted onto the models...wow...it shows what the atelier is capable of.

However, I dislike this look, even though I could appreciate the couture-level skills and work devoted to it.

Since he's shown how accomplished he is at sculpting shapes a la Monsieur himself, I wish he'd evolve more daringly and not feel too trapped in Dior's heritage which can be suffocating like a corset.

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02-07-2012
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