Christian Dior HC S/S 2012 Paris - Page 4 - the Fashion Spot
 
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23-01-2012
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This is cute, all this we have seen it before. but still cute, but this makes me more excited about Raf Simons!

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everything what i see i´ve seen many times before... but everything what i see is really pretty. for the first day of couture this is quite good. waiting for Valli...

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23-01-2012
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very beautiful collection, very dior, but i don't see nothing new/special

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23-01-2012
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Not bad actually.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyNameIs View Post
you could've shown me the collection and said it was from 1956 and I would've believed you.
Save that in 1956 - or more correctly 1947 - which is the year of New Look, where the silhouette repetition comes from, you'd not have seen sheer tops in the daywear. So that's the modern twist, the updating.

I do agree in part that, because the concept wasn't executed boldly enough -several looks forgetting entirely the driving concept of transparency - that unreconstructed literal retroism is allowed back in. In part. Had Gayyten not sat on the fence, had he made a bolder more consistent statement, then the 'old-fashioned' misreading might not have been available at all.

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There's one word in Marketing to describe this: Benchmarking.

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Not bad but not good at the same time, there is smth wrong with this collection. It doesn't scream HC! It's like I've seen this a million times before.

P. S. It's just me or that red dress looks exactely like that red Giambattista Valli dress Doutzen wore to Met Gala?

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23-01-2012
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Quote:
Paris Haute Couture: Dior spring/summer 2012

Could it be that Dior's nervy, indecision of last year was really an example of old fashioned measured strategy? If so, it may be paying off. The collection that acting creative director Bill Gaytten just showed was a class act by any standards, and particularly so when it followed on the wobbly heels of Versace's Vegas showgirls and Alexis Mabille's riff on the Smurfs earlier in the day.

If Gaytten's 40 outfits lacked obvious Oscar fodder, then so much the better. These were clothes for real clients: gorgeous slim-line chiffon and organza dresses in damson, beige or black, with pleated, stand-away, "crumb-catcher" bodices and embroidery, subtle beading and lattice-work pin-tucking. The full-skirted versions, with their shawl-collared, waist cinching organza jackets were showier, but a no less wearable option come the cocktail hour.

The occasional drop-shouldered, half-sleeved jacket in black or taupe croc-stamped leather, worn with leather, elbow length gloves and patent or tulle court shoes with Lucite heels toughened things up nicely and a scarlet and white houndstooth pencil skirt with peplumed organza blouse could be just the required update for Cameron Diaz, who watched from the front row.
While Gaytten's first couture outing last summer looked strained, this was confident and polished, with plenty of challenges for the ateliers to sink their needles into - and pointed references to the golden days of Dior. The Bar jacket, but a little exaggerated and all of it sheer and ethereal as a dream - which is when half the inspiration came to him, ante-bellum ruffled, strapless ballgowns included.

"It's mean to be x-ray Dior, " he said afterward. "All the structure of iconic DIor, thanks to lots of fittings, but all of it see-through." Clearly this was no rush job. The pintucking on a single skirt took three days."I haven't slept for weeks," he reported cheerfully. "It's been a lot of waking up at 3 am."
He must be on good vitamins because he seemed remarkably relaxed. Surely it's time to close the deal on what is proving the longest job application in history? "No comment."
But are they going to give him the gig?" No comment." Is he working on the next couture collection? "I'm working on the next five".
Meanwhile, outside a chic French blogger worked her new Gaytten-era Dior bag - utterly plain and unembellished, it's the most modern item they've produced in years.
telegraph

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Quote:
Christian Dior haute couture show - review

I think it's fair to say that the house of Christian Dior has not had a good year. Galliano dragged the name through the mud. The first haute couture show by his right-hand man Bill Gaytten was monstered by reviewers. The continued failure to appoint a successor has left the label in a state of limbo.

The spring/summer haute couture collection shown in Paris on Monday was a clear attempt to get the Dior name back on track. Gaytten was taking no chances getting his message across this time: he had the Christian Dior quote he used at the top of the show notes hand-embroidered in organza on to the skirts of several dresses.

"Elegance must be the right combination of distinction, naturalness, care and simplicity," it read.

This collection was "an X-ray of Dior", Gaytten said after the show. That meant two things. The wasp-waisted, full-skirted silhouette was a clear reference to the Dior heyday of the early 1950s, while the extraordinary construction of the clothes was celebrated with transparent fabrics which showed off the layers and underpinnings that form the base of those shapes.

It was a nice show. It will sell. But it was safe, and lacking in newness: a celebration of Dior's history and heritage, more than a style point of view with relevance for 2012. There is as yet no happy ending for this house.
Guardian

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I'm glad this Couture collection isn't as loud as last season's but there's still only one single look that I don't find immensely ugly (This one on Bette Franke is lovely, actually). I don't know how Gaytten manges to do this, but everything here looks just cheap. The materials, the cuts, the sheer-ness. It all doesn't work for me. Galliano was over the top tacky, too, most of the time, but nothing he ever did looked cheap. What's even worse is that all of this looks so dated. I know that Haute Couture pieces are meant to be classic and appeal to an older customer base than RTW collections but some of this is borderline retirement home chic. The gowns are hideous...just because they're puffy doesn't mean they look spectacular or expensive. I honestly fail to see anything exciting or gorgeous in this mess. To me this is definitely just another disaster courtesy of Bill Gaytten.

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I personally like this. I would hate to see Gaytten doing something crazy and super over-the-top, and just trying to hard to make his statement at the brand and fotgetting all about the essence of Dior (like he did on his first HC collection, one of the worst collections of all time, IMO). The only thing that I do agree on is on the shoes, they look way to cheap to be couture.

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Gaytten id doing the next FIVE couture collection or the next FIVE collections? Gosh I hope that's not true...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pradable View Post
telegraph
Gaytten is doing the NEXT FIVE couture collections or the NEXT FIVE collections. If couture, we could have this for years. God, I hope not!!!

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23-01-2012
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^ next five collections

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I quite like almost all of it, the word ladylike keeps coming to mind...

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