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08-06-2011
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for those wondering the collection was designed by the design team. there was not one overall designer or creative director.

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08-06-2011
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was it only 6 looks?

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08-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squizree View Post
If Galliano, who is one of the most exciting designers of our time, couldn't spice up Dior then I doubt anyone can.
Perhaps the fact that Galliano Dior was too 'spicey' was exactly the problem.

Does the brand not need paring back rather than spicing up? To regain contemporary relevance.

Imagine for instance if back before SS10 Phoebe Philo had been given the helm of Dior rather than Celine. A re-engagement of mid-century Parisian chic Dior archive through the prism of minimalism. Could we imagine that working?

It was a place Galliano was never going to go to. He continued to fiddle to his own tune while the rest of fashion was in a different auditorium altogether.

To make sure I'm staying on thread - from the little we've seen of the Resort collection, I'm sure we're all agreed on one thing - these looks do herald a fundamental rethink of brand identity. In that process the new Creative Director would surely be negligent if they didn't do two things - go back to archive pre-Galliano and engage with relevant contemporary zeitgeist.

Whilst it's not what we've seen here at Resort, I think we could imagine a brand of Dior minimalism that could be the epitome of contemporary sartorial sophistication?

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08-06-2011
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^I think you are wrong. Galliano re-made Dior.
He put the mark into this century.

There are the sales.
With Galliano in Dior, sales grow like never before.

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08-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentacl Ventricl View Post
Perhaps the fact that Galliano Dior was too 'spicey' was exactly the problem.

Does the brand not need paring back rather than spicing up? To regain contemporary relevance.

Imagine for instance if back before SS10 Phoebe Philo had been given the helm of Dior rather than Celine. A re-engagement of mid-century Parisian chic Dior archive through the prism of minimalism. Could we imagine that working?

It was a place Galliano was never going to go to. He continued to fiddle to his own tune while the rest of fashion was in a different auditorium altogether.

To make sure I'm staying on thread - from the little we've seen of the Resort collection, I'm sure we're all agreed on one thing - these looks do herald a fundamental rethink of brand identity. In that process the new Creative Director would surely be negligent if they didn't do two things - go back to archive pre-Galliano and engage with relevant contemporary zeitgeist.

Whilst it's not what we've seen here at Resort, I think we could imagine a brand of Dior minimalism that could be the epitome of contemporary sartorial sophistication?
if Dior wanted minimalism they wouldn't be looking at designers like Tisci and Sarah Burton to fill Galliano's shoes. Besides everyone knows this resort collection is just a filler done by the atelier to not skip the resort season. It's hardly a jumping off point in a new direction.

The Dior label has never been about minimalism, It's not what Christian Dior believed in. Mr. Dior said "full wide skirts" when the world said "budget on fabric & fashion" and he created a revolution.

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08-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentacl Ventricl View Post
Perhaps the fact that Galliano Dior was too 'spicey' was exactly the problem.

Does the brand not need paring back rather than spicing up? To regain contemporary relevance.

Imagine for instance if back before SS10 Phoebe Philo had been given the helm of Dior rather than Celine. A re-engagement of mid-century Parisian chic Dior archive through the prism of minimalism. Could we imagine that working?

It was a place Galliano was never going to go to. He continued to fiddle to his own tune while the rest of fashion was in a different auditorium altogether.

To make sure I'm staying on thread - from the little we've seen of the Resort collection, I'm sure we're all agreed on one thing - these looks do herald a fundamental rethink of brand identity. In that process the new Creative Director would surely be negligent if they didn't do two things - go back to archive pre-Galliano and engage with relevant contemporary zeitgeist.

Whilst it's not what we've seen here at Resort, I think we could imagine a brand of Dior minimalism that could be the epitome of contemporary sartorial sophistication?
Sorry, but I don't see how this collection recalls any of Christian Dior's fundamental brand identity. The Christian Dior classic is not one that is minimal. I don't think Dior ever said it was either. Also, I doubt this resort collection has any sort of significance. It would be rather foolish to actually consider this collection as a sign of what is to come.

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08-06-2011
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Why is everyone freaking out? It's only 6 looks so far, I don't see how we can judge the whole thing based on 6 looks.

And it's not all that terrible, it's not amazing but it's not bad. I've seen worse from Galliano. This reminds me a bit of Hermes.

EDIT: I realize this was made a week ago and I still can't believe it's only 6 looks! Why even bother releasing a resort collection if it's going to be this small.


Last edited by saann; 08-06-2011 at 07:49 PM.
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09-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squizree View Post
If Galliano, who is one of the most exciting designers of our time, couldn't spice up Dior then I doubt anyone can.
that's quite an ahistorical perspective. before the "borehouse" years at dior, galliano did nothing but spice up dior. now, what changed remains the fodder for the "borehouse" thread, but to pretend he didn't have the stuff to make dior drip off the lips of every fashion girl in this world remains patently false.

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09-06-2011
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^ Sorry, I should have worded that statement better. I meant that if Galliano couldn't spice up Dior, under the given conditions, then I don't know who will. Given the creative restrictions that he was placed under by the "guys upstairs", I'm not sure anyone could exercise any productive imagination at Dior.
That's why I'm not a huge fan of this whole "Tisci for Dior" business. It will just end up being toned-down-Tisci, just like it was toned-down-Galliano.


Last edited by Squizree; 09-06-2011 at 08:30 AM.
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09-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D'Felipe View Post
if Dior wanted minimalism they wouldn't be looking at designers like Tisci and Sarah Burton to fill Galliano's shoes. Besides everyone knows this resort collection is just a filler done by the atelier to not skip the resort season. It's hardly a jumping off point in a new direction.

The Dior label has never been about minimalism, It's not what Christian Dior believed in. Mr. Dior said "full wide skirts" when the world said "budget on fabric & fashion" and he created a revolution.
You're meaning New Look, 1947? I'm afraid you're confusing 'minimalism' with post-war austerity. In 1947 a dialogue between Dior and the type of minimalism I'm talking about was impossible as the Primary Structures art exhibition and the Harpers Bazaar article that linked that exhibition with minimalism in fashion was still nearly 20 years in the future.

The part of the Dior archive I'm suggesting it might be interesting for a new Creative Director to revisit is the mid 60's archive. It's pretty minimalistic I assure you. Ok I appreciate that by then Dior himself was dead but what's a brand to do, does it have to be on endless copy of a copy repeat of some overessentialised seminal collection of the founder. The Dior archive is much broader than just the New Look collection. Dior the brand managed to maintain it's cache for 50 years after the death of Christian himself because guess what - it moved with the times.

Which Galliano palpably wasn't doing. And, if you want to overassociate Dior with New Look, consider AW10/11, the silhouettes at Louis Vuitton and Prada were, broadly, New Look derived. The fashion moment paid a visit to that part of the Dior archive but Galliano had Dior itself in some other place entirely - his own navel.

For me Dior stands for, perhaps moreso than any other brand - elegance and sophistication. So, regardless of who the new CD might be, it would sit well with the demographic it's most likely to appeal to, if it repositioned toward the type of aesthetic seen in recent years at such as Celine, Jil Sander and Calvin Klein. Anyway, we will see what happens.

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09-06-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentacl Ventricl View Post
You're meaning New Look, 1947? I'm afraid you're confusing 'minimalism' with post-war austerity. In 1947 a dialogue between Dior and the type of minimalism I'm talking about was impossible as the Primary Structures art exhibition and the Harpers Bazaar article that linked that exhibition with minimalism in fashion was still nearly 20 years in the future.

The part of the Dior archive I'm suggesting it might be interesting for a new Creative Director to revisit is the mid 60's archive. It's pretty minimalistic I assure you. Ok I appreciate that by then Dior himself was dead but what's a brand to do, does it have to be on endless copy of a copy repeat of some overessentialised seminal collection of the founder. The Dior archive is much broader than just the New Look collection. Dior the brand managed to maintain it's cache for 50 years after the death of Christian himself because guess what - it moved with the times.

Which Galliano palpably wasn't doing. And, if you want to overassociate Dior with New Look, consider AW10/11, the silhouettes at Louis Vuitton and Prada were, broadly, New Look derived. The fashion moment paid a visit to that part of the Dior archive but Galliano had Dior itself in some other place entirely - his own navel.

For me Dior stands for, perhaps moreso than any other brand - elegance and sophistication. So, regardless of who the new CD might be, it would sit well with the demographic it's most likely to appeal to, if it repositioned toward the type of aesthetic seen in recent years at such as Celine, Jil Sander and Calvin Klein. Anyway, we will see what happens.
You're meaning the the Marc Bohan years 1960-89? this period was considered "neither revolutionary nor visionary, he produced work that fit his clientele's and his management's expectations" "as early as the mid 70's investments were rare and licenses developed without any control at all." (L'Officiel)

in any case, Galliano did revisit these archives during what we consider "the borehouse years."

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09-06-2011
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^ But I thought Marc Bohan's years were a triumph for the house of Dior. The way I understood it was that Saint Laurent's pre-1960 creative direction for the house was very un-Dior and seemed to ignore what the founder had originally preached. I even read somewhere that Bohan's first collection for Dior was so triumphant in revitalizing the house that it quite literally caused a riot.

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12-06-2011
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ummmm,,,,,,WTF??
is this Dior for Target or something??

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14-06-2011
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This isn't that bad I love the red dress...

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30-06-2011
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