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02-10-2009
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telegraph.co.uk

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The theme was ‘film noir’. The models were made-up and coiffed like Lauren Bacall. And the designer, John Galliano, took his bow in a trench-coat and Homberg, a la Bogart, accessorised with a pair of black-and-white spotted pyjama pants.
But the message at Christian Dior this afternoon was very definitely taken straight from the underwear drawer.
Sheer, 1940’s-style dresses, see-through negligee-gowns and flimsy party-frocks were all a window onto a woman’s most intimate possessions – her bra and knickers.
Backstage, Galliano revealed the undercover secret: all the underwear was actually built-in, making getting dressed a one-step operation for those willing to pay for such an expensive close-up.
Galliano said he had originally been inspired by archive photographs of Bacall and Bogart, in the front row at Christian Dior shows.
“She was a regular client of M. Dior and I loved the idea of taking that 1940s Hollywood glamour and making it more contemporary. And I liked the idea of the link between film as an illusion and the illusion of undressed dresses.”
The front-row line-up included the Hollywood actor, Bruce Willis, and his new wife, Emma Heming, who was wearing a black-and-white, tailored Dior suit; the singer Rihanna; and the burlesque star, Dita Von Teese.
“I’d like to see Emma in some of those dresses,” Willis said, after the show.
The show was staged against a ‘film noir’ backdrop of a derelict warehouse, suffused with shadowy light and dry ice. There was the sound of heavy breathing, a telephone ringing, a hoarse cry, a gun-shot and then screams. Murder on the dance floor? No, drama on the Dior catwalk. The models appeared, first, as enlarged shadows on a backlit screen.
In keeping with the Bacall-Bogart theme, the trench-coat was a key piece, worn with jeweled-lace petticoats or satin French knickers.
The 1940s mode embraced vintage-look short dresses, in floral chiffon with ruffled skirts, or in metallic Lurex, pointelle knits, seamed to enhance the bust and featuring built-in bras, knickers or petticoats.
Necklines tied with bows, short, puffed sleeves and high, platform wedge-shoes echoed the retro vibe.
The exposure factor was particularly effective when black lace came over jewel-bright purple or fuschia satin.
Corsetry was key for evening – a theme Galliano introduced earlier this year in his autumn/winter, haute couture show for Dior.
A flesh-tone and black lace corset, came with a black lace, ruffled skirt, sheer enough to show the lace-top hold-up stockings beneath. A sunray-pleated gown, as dazzlingly orange as a volcano, featured a crystal-and-sequin corset. Even a more prim, collared and bowed, long, dinner dress, was in diaphanous red chiffon, disclosing the black bra and knickers beneath.

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I like the mini-trench. Otherwise it's always the same peplemed jacket and flyaway tulle/chiffon dresses.

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nice collection but.. so boring =(

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Well, it's not that tragic. Need to see more.

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some of it looks very good but most of it it's very boring. and do - not - want - ever those SOCKS. i cant get over it

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i'm liking everything that isn't see-through. lol

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i love it so far

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Really love the lingerie pieces and well this collection doesn't feel new in any way, it sure is nice to look at.

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high-waisted belts, new look revisited, lingerie-like pieces, flowy dresses... galliano is at the height of his creativity.

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