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01-11-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
Burberry hasn't been the same for the past 7 years...Since they decided to show at LFW actually .
That's a bit of a stretch, isn't it Lola? I mean I know he's not for everyone, but there were some strong offerings over the past few years. SS2010 and AW2014 were commercial hits, and I really liked SS15. This is from the top of my head. As for his men's line, I always liked his consistency, except the last 3 seasons.

Also, I don't think it had anything to do with showing in London so I'm not sure why you mentioned that.


Last edited by Benn98; 01-11-2017 at 10:15 PM.
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02-11-2017
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That's a bit of a stretch, isn't it Lola? I mean I know he's not for everyone, but there were some strong offerings over the past few years. SS2010 and AW2014 were commercial hits, and I really liked SS15. This is from the top of my head. As for his men's line, I always liked his consistency, except the last 3 seasons.

Also, I don't think it had anything to do with showing in London so I'm not sure why you mentioned that.
Not at all. I'm just speaking from a personal level. IMO his FW2009 was his last masterpiece. What i loved about his pre-london era was the nonchalance, the spleen and almost how obviously "english" it was in a very romantic way.

He had some commercial and influencial hits like the biker collection, the wax collection, the pastel lace collection...etc. My personal favorite post-Milan was the one with the hearts prints and rubber coats. He was very inconsistent in womenswear but his menswear was always strong.

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03-11-2017
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i thought the last two shows have been so great, the brand has been getting better again but i guess its just so hard to compete with the dior/chanel/gucci/lv level.

wonder who will replace him?

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04-11-2017
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wonder who will replace him?
There's talk of Phoebe Philo coming back to London, stylistically speaking, so that's great news. At least on paper it's perfect. I doubt Phoebe will rehash what she did at Celine.

I wish Sarah Burton would also pack it in! It's a bleeding shame that she must represent such a prominent brand in the English fashion spectrum. Her ideas are terribly outdated and pedestrian. She belongs at Ghost or Temperley, at best. Not next to Viv, Stella and Phoebe.

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I wish Sarah Burton would also pack it in! It's a bleeding shame that she must represent such a prominent brand in the English fashion spectrum. Her ideas are terribly outdated and pedestrian. She belongs at Ghost or Temperley, at best. Not next to Viv, Stella and Phoebe.

Amen to that. Plus, she is actually good at menswear. McQueen is such a parody of fashion nowadays...
And Giles Deacon at McQueen!!!

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4 Weeks Ago
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As the financial results were published, i was wondering if the speculation of Phoebe going to Burberry was actually taking in consideration the non-compete agreement all the designers at LVMH signs.

In those big conglomerates, when a designer leaves, he has to respect that time gap of 1 year to be hired by another big brand. We saw it with Nicolas at Balenciaga, Raf at Dior, Hedi had one at Dior Homme and Saint Laurent too...etc.

Phoebe will never leave Celine to go right away to Burberry and i don't know if the brand can afford to be without any creative force for one year judging by all the changes the new CEO wants to do.

And i'm also starting to doubt about the "she will follow her former CEO" because at the end of the day, the person who decided to hire her was Bernard Arnault, with advices from his family and some respected expert but the CEO was only following the strategy decided by Mr Arnault.

I'm sure they are auditionning designers and i'm less convinced that it will be Phoebe. Maybe Christopher Kane or another "young" and respected talent will replace Bailey.
It seems obvious that the designer of Burberry needs to be english but i think they should seek talent, experience and drive.

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^Oh boy, I feel like Christopher Kane's time has already passed.

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^^ Well, it's obvious from the moves they're making at Celine that she's already given them some kind of notice, right? One of the execs at my company is leaving, and the non-compete started when she gave notice, not when she actually walks out the door 6 months later. Perhaps her non-compete is already in the process of expiring.

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It's LVMH and i can highly doubt on that. Logically, the non-compete start as soon as her contract expired. At this point, it's clear that talks have been made and even finalized but i hardly doubt that she will leave Celine to go straight to Burberry if that's the case.

I mean, Raf Simons for CK was almost a public knowledge 3 months after he left Dior but he took the position one year later.

Riccardo's non-compete will end in the first few months of 2018.

Quote:
I feel like Christopher Kane's time has already passed.
Designers in London seems to live in a bubble and while his influence and his time seem to have passed, he is still quite big there. Leaving Versus was the biggest mistake of his career because actually, having a name like Versace attached to your brand is like a golden ticket to everything.

I really don't think that his own line matter that much today (too much gimmicks), that's why i suuggested him.

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Note that the news say Bailey will actually leave the company in December 2018 - a full year from now. This gives plenty of time for any non-compete to come to an end, as I highly doubt Philo would step in while Bailey is in the house, even if it was just in the management side. She wanted to start Celine totally carte blanche, and I suspect the same goes for Burberry (if she's going there).

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Quote:
Burberry: How Christopher Bailey reinvented the brand with the chequered past

By Annabel Rackham Entertainment reporter
24 November 2017

Image caption Burberry's classic check print was showcased at the London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 18 show.

When Christopher Bailey arrived at Burberry back in 2001, he joined a brand that had mass appeal - but which was in danger of losing its credibility among the fashion set.

He has been credited for transforming Burberry through show-stopping catwalk collections that are available to buy straight off the runway.

Bailey has also drawn on the brand's British heritage, championing the UK's biggest models and musicians at Fashion Week and drawing the world's biggest names to experience it all on the front row.

As the Yorkshire-born designer announces his departure from the company, we look back at the legacy he's left.

Who could have predicted that one paparazzi shot could threaten the reputation of a huge luxury label?

That's what happened in 2002, when EastEnders actress Danniella Westbrook was photographed dressed head to toe in Burberry, with her daughter in a matching outfit.

Fashion designer and retailer Alex Eagle tells the BBC that this was "the pivotal moment when the perception of the brand needed to change".

Eagle says: "The print had been too overexposed and that image shows it became synonymous with ostentatious luxury."

This came at a time when the brand had also become associated with the football world. Players' wives and girlfriends as well as fans famously donned the print during the 2002 World Cup.

Burberry check also became ubiquitous with fake goods, meaning it had lost its exclusivity.

He joined the company 16-and-a-half years ago as a design director, working his way up to chief creative officer in 2014.

Between 2002 and the present day, share prices have risen 729%.

Eagle says Bailey, who is just 46, has managed to convince the fashionistas that Burberry is again cutting edge, exclusive and the only place to be during Fashion Week.

"I think he's a genius - he's created our best British global brand, it's young, desirable and cool," she says.

"Burberry previously was synonymous with bad taste. Now it has an identity which feels very British and can be sold around the world."

Burberry's catwalk shows have been the most "slick, luxurious and global" of any British brand, she adds.

Lucy Felton is a fashion journalist and blogger and agrees that Burberry's modern-day success is entirely down to Bailey's vision.

"So much of Burberry's DNA is about Bailey", she tells the BBC.

"His shows are big, amazing, glamorous affairs, with Kate Moss or Cara Delevingne closing the show - he always has big fashion icons.

"The show is one of the highlights of fashion week. It takes place in Kensington Gardens and is so grand. Celebrities fill the front rows and it's such an event.

"It's got such an uplifting feeling after a few days of shows and it has such a fun charm about it - they hold some of the best shows and parties."

Felton also highlights another great factor Bailey brought to Burberry - the hottest music talent.

"Bailey's always supported British music too - he launched the careers of Jake Bugg and James Bay by having them play on his catwalks, which people don't know unless they're a fashion insider," she says.

She adds that Burberry is also behind the phenomenon of the "it" bag - its Prorsum collection creates each season's most coveted possession, worn by celebrities and sold at a high price point to add to its desirability.

It all started back in 2007 with the studded Knight bag, which was made as part of a limited run.

It was a huge hit with celebrities, seen on stars like Cameron Diaz, Emma Watson and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.

"I remember the Knight bag being four figures at the time and that was a big deal, it would cost 15,000 now," Felton says.

"Most big fashion houses do premium pieces anyway and Burberry knew what they were doing by uplifting prices.

Bailey is also credited with creating ready-to-wear fashion, available to buy straight off the catwalk.

"He created catwalk to consumer and the ability to buy now," Eagle says.

The Burberry tartan has even become popular again. The fashion house's 2014 Christmas film featured Romeo Beckham in a classic cashmere scarf, while Burberry trench coats are again being seen as classy and desirable.

"There's been a real fashion resurgence complimenting that side of things as well - the tartan is still an attractive part of the brand," Felton says.

"Romeo Beckham's ad also created a new generation of people wearing the scarf, showing it as a lovely British brand and this all feeds into its charm."

Eagle says Bailey has managed to "go 360" by bringing back the Burberry print in a chic way.

"He's made something that feels English and London by nailing that look of tailoring," she says.

"Bailey's now celebrating the check in the chic way, he's put touches of it in the Macintoshes and knitwear, whilst scarves feel preppy and quaint.

As far as its reputation was concerned, Burberry had found that by becoming too accessible, with low-priced accessories, the brand had become cheapened.

This was arguably one of the biggest challenges the fashion house would face - by raising prices, it would lose a lot of shoppers.

That's where Burberry Beauty comes in. Created in 2010, it's marketed as a luxury make-up brand and sold in high-end department stores but with prices that match competitors like YSL and Estee Lauder.

"Burberry Beauty has become a lot more popular over the last few years," Felton says.

"It's quite cult and has really gorgeous luxury packaging. It's tapping into the younger generation who can afford a lipstick but not a catwalk dress.

"It means you can fill your home with Burberry even if you can't afford a 10,000 bag."
Source: BBC.com

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Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
Designers in London seems to live in a bubble and while his influence and his time seem to have passed, he is still quite big there. Leaving Versus was the biggest mistake of his career because actually, having a name like Versace attached to your brand is like a golden ticket to everything.

I really don't think that his own line matter that much today (too much gimmicks), that's why i suuggested him.
He doesn't come across as someone who's constantly strategising to helm the Saint Laurents and Diors of the world, and endlessly using smaller houses as stepping stones. And maybe that's also fine. We have enough money-hungry creatives who bow down to the highest bidder then turn around and weep and wail over 'the fast pace of fashion' and exhaustion.
Purely speculation, but I think he took on Versus just to diversify his expertees and unfortunately it proved to demand much more than that. Anyway, his little line which apparently 'doesn't matter much today' seems to increase its revenue quarter after quarter while beating on his own drum. I've heard of others who's signature brands don't even show growth and just about break even, yet they get all the fanfare (a certain gangbang-loving designer from NY immediately comes to mind.)


Last edited by Benn98; 2 Weeks Ago at 09:24 AM.
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Originally Posted by Benn98 View Post
He doesn't come across as someone who's constantly strategising to helm the Saint Laurents and Diors of the world, and endlessly using smaller houses as stepping stones. And maybe that's also fine. We have enough money-hungry creatives who bow down to the highest bidder then turn around and weep and wail over 'the fast pace of fashion' and exhaustion.
Purely speculation, but I think he took on Versus just to diversify his expertees and unfortunately it proved to demand much more than that. Anyway, his little line which apparently 'doesn't matter much today' seems to increase its revenue quarter after quarter while beating on his own drum. I've heard of others who's signature brands don't even show growth and just about break even, yet they get all the fanfare (a certain gangbang-loving designer from NY immediately comes to mind.)
I know his brand is doing good financially but let's be honest, it is quite removed from the fashion conversation now.
Kane is a huge talent but my problem with him (and it is something quite common in London) is the lack of identity of his brand. That's why Versus was such a great thing because he was able to inject his creativity to a brand attached to a certain image and he challenged the brand and the perception people had of it.

He made Versus relevant. If it wasn't for him the brand would have been discontinued today.

He is still a force but at his peak, he was untouchable.


Poor Marc Jacobs. To be fair, the financial state of his brand has nothing to do with his talent. His signature line like the john Galliano brand wasn't really a priority for LVMH.

When comparing him to Kane, we have to remember that Kane is in a different context. London is more fashion than Luxury. Those are still two separates things there.
Marc Jacobs was a fashion brand in a luxury group and the marriage never last because it's hard to meet certain expectations.

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