It seems that there's no end to Kane's creativity.
I like it how he keeps it simple yet original and interesting from a very different perspective. The garments are not easy to wear but they're distinctively Kane and contemporary. This is unexpected but I love his unexpectedness. It makes me look forward to his next collection and the one after that and the one after that...
I don't mind sometimes to hear the scrape of the bar stool across the floor. Time and space, for thought, being the real luxury.
Twitterers have flown, arriving at Designers and Collections 'late' can feel like that end of season watering hole at the wrong part of the night.
But outside the snap judgment as the fashion weeks blurred by at wharp speed, I wanted to give this Kane collection time to grow on me. It hasn't.
Christopher said he wanted to be more minimal. Tammy said the starting point was to use a material never used before. The 'lava' plastic was interesting.
But an opportunity was missed in how it was used. Like the applique at Versace, the 'lava' squiggles at, ie the hip, create an aesthetically displeasing garment. Their size and shape, their contrasting sheen and colour (on the lbds in particular) immediately draws the eye, jolts the eye. They interrupt the silhouette, compete with it and we can instinctively tell there's no particular reason for them being where they are, just random doodling.
The most pleasing applications were undoubtedly looks 12 and 20 when the lava plastic covered half the body. Imagine if you will, if the apparent need to hanker to trend with the frumpy silhouette and this untimely jump on the minimalism (minimal baroque) bandwagon had been cast aside, garments wholly made of the lava plastic - short, long, whatever, but hugging the form. They could have been amazing.
It seeming that even a metatrend these days gets only 5 seasons (rather than 3) (bored twitterers having flown), it did seem strange timing to jump the minimalism bandwagon late. This wasn't of course minimalism. As Costa told us knowingly, from the snug, even he hasn't got it right yet. And attempting to jump a bandwagon on it's downward slope can be dangerous. Especially if you're not sure of your footing. You can end up on your nose.
You can see the Donatella logic - Gianni did baroque, it's a moment of minimalism, let's do minimal baroque with Prada too. Kane took the Versus thinking and allowed it to restrict his own development, restrain his flow. And to his cost. If the WWD buyer reports are an accurate reflection the Versace collection has not been picked up very much at all. If she can avoid her sommelier, and before she has to meet the suits, let's hope Donatella has time to take Mr Kane down to the Versace archive to encounter the spirit of Gianni lurking there and that he might be filled to the hilt with his fire.
Sometimes the melding of the prim and the perverse works for Kane. Or does it? A major talent undoubtedly, but those who take the time to think, not just tweet with the chorus, have the feeling that we're waiting for a Kane collection that absolutely knocks us off our feet. Patiently we wait, next season it might happen. But it doesn't.
So, patience wearing thin, there sadly arrives a question - has there been an element of overhype. To start with lava and end up with an admitted
'medical sterility' may be symptomatic of the restraint Mr Kane needs to lose. It may be something to do with a certain Presbyterianism of the frozen north. He needs not more Scottish reserve but to open himself up to more Italian heat and, like Vesuvius, errupt all over Pompei.
Last edited by Tentacl Ventricl; 16-03-2011 at 08:02 AM.