Clare Waight Keller Named Artistic Director of Givenchy - the Fashion Spot
 
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Clare Waight Keller Named Artistic Director of Givenchy
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PARIS — Clare Waight Keller, who recently exited Chloé, has landed on Givenchy’s Instagram account.

The portrait by Steven Meisel identifies the British designer as the French house’s sixth couturier.

She is expected to succeed Riccardo Tisci, who exited the French house earlier this year after an electrifying 12-year tenure.

The choice of Keller suggests Givenchy is ready to turn a page on the daring, Goth-tinged fashions plied by Tisci and revert to a more subdued version of the aristocratic elegance and architectural flare associated with the house, marking its 65th anniversary this year.

Tisci’s last collections were fall men’s wear and spring couture, which were paraded together at the National Library of France in Paris on Jan. 20.

The parting was characterized as mutual and amicable, the separation effective Jan. 31 following the expiration of Tisci’s latest employment agreement.

According to sources, Versace has held extensive discussions with Tisci, but the Milan-based fashion house has remained mum about any proposed change in creative leadership.

The Italian designer has long expressed his admiration for the work of the late Gianni Versace and cultivated a close friendship with his sister Donatella, whom he invited to pose in a Givenchy ad campaign in 2015.

Waight Keller joined Chloé in 2011 after a six-year stint designing Pringle of Scotland. A calm, soft-spoken woman with a ready smile, she brought a sure and steady hand to the house, rejuvenating its ready-to-wear and accessories business and winning largely positive reviews for her collections.

Boasting a strong background in knitwear and men’s wear, Waight Keller, served as senior women’s designer at Gucci during the Tom Ford era, and had also worked at Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein.

Waight Keller staged her swan song for Chloé on March 2, with Nicolas Ghesquière’s longtime deputy, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, succeeding her, as reported.
wwd.com

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And a slightly more detailed article from Business of Fashion:

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PARIS, France — Givenchy has announced Clare Waight Keller as its new artistic director, replacing Riccardo Tisci, who had held the position since 2005. Tisci exited in January and is widely expected to move to Versace. Waight Keller is the second female designer to take the creative lead at an LVMH couture house, following in the footsteps of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior. Prior to Tisci, the house has also previously had John Galliano, Lee Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald as creative directors.

The brand took to Instagram to break the news to its 7.7 million followers. As a teaser, an hour prior, it shared a photo of the label’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, as well as a quote, stating that "true elegance comes with a natural gesture, an attitude in simplicity."

Waight Keller’s appointment could mark a dramatic shift for the French brand, which has embraced hip-hop and celebrity culture under the leadership of Tisci. The fiery Italian-born designer became known for his high-octane embellished collections, and achieved notoriety for distinctive graphic sweatshirts, sneakers and sportswear-inspired garments, as well as close personal and professional relationships with celebrities including Madonna, Kanye West, Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian West. Under his tenure, Givenchy also grew into a significant business, estimated to turn over more than €500 million in revenues, with an EBIT margin of 10 to 15 percent.

Waight Keller, in contrast, is known for her calm and affable manner and interest in the arts. The British designer’s success at Chloé was rooted in in her ability to deliver wearable, desirable garments — and perhaps most importantly, high-margin shoes and handbags — that moved at retail. Her talent for accessories will be welcome at Givenchy, which has not delivered a hit bag since the ‘Nightingale’ early in Tisci's tenure, and the role will see her return to designing menswear as well as womenswear.

Although she has no experience in haute couture, Waight Keller will likely be drawn to the rich heritage of the house, which was founded by Hubert de Givenchy in 1952 and become known for linearly elegant couture favoured by Audrey Hepburn, Wallis Simpson and Jackie Kennedy.

Waight Keller graduated from the Royal College of Art in London and moved to New York to work for Calvin Klein on graduation, subsequently overseeing the menswear design of Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label. She was then tapped by Tom Ford to work at Gucci alongside Christopher Bailey and Francisco Costa as a senior designer, and remained at the brand until she was appointed creative director of Pringle of Scotland in 2005.
businessoffashion.com

I am a bit surprised by the news because I never thought of Clare as this "great" designer while she was at Chloé but I hope to be proven wrong. At least it's clear that Givenchy is moving into a new direction.

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I certainly didn't picture her at Givenchy, with her flowy soft aesthetic at Chloe. Curious how this is going to work out.

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Congratulations to Clare. I hope she will truly gets to show her true talents at the house. For me, it was a surprise that they want to move into a new direction this fast but at the same time I am glad they went with Clare. She has a portfolio of both womenswear and menswear. Her work at Chloe definitely showcases her understanding in couture techniques and it's quite a feat to have commercial success and turn Chloe into a luxe boho house with massive loyal following. I am eager to see where she will take Givenchy to.

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Would have preferred Clare went to Burberry, but good luck to her here. Did not see this coming.

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I think this could be a better fit than Chloe was

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Don't know what to say ... but weird .. and fast lets see what happen
I really hope to not see a Chloé 2.0 à la "Valentino-Dioresque "

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isn't her style a little bit light and simple for Givenchy?

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Excited for this, and congrats to her.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nymphaea View Post
I certainly didn't picture her at Givenchy, with her flowy soft aesthetic at Chloe.
If you look at her work for Pringle of Scotland you might! it was so sharp and heavy and gorgeous .. I think she's more natural in that vein, reason why chloé always seemed a bit off.

Congrats to her.. I think she's capable of making a good interpretation of the house and like they say, restore some of the old-school prestige after the last Kardashian years..

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I'm actually pretty interested to see how she'll handle the menswear.

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this is definitely a surprising - and interesting choice.
I didn't see this coming, but I'm pleased its not yet another overhyped stylist

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MulletProof View Post
If you look at her work for Pringle of Scotland you might! it was so sharp and heavy and gorgeous .. I think she's more natural in that vein, reason why chloé
Yes, I can see some bits and bytes in her F/W collections for Pringle, but not much more. Hopefully she's going to impress us, I like sharp and heavy.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedSmokeRise View Post
I'm actually pretty interested to see how she'll handle the menswear.

Good catch , I totally forgot about it , It will be interesing to see her vision for menswear

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I quite liked her Pringle before but don't like one bit of her Chloe cos it felt pedestrian to me with all those prettiness that can be found at many highstreet brands, just with good fabric and tailoring(?) etc. (I once read an article in Architectural Digest about her own home and I was even more sure I didn't like her sense of aesthetics but I digress...)

But oh well, if Ricardo also liked her appointment by way of instagram, guess we should all give her a chance, at least we know we won't see the goth in the Givenchy anymore, although I know I am gonna miss that.
Hope she can bring something new to the house.

Congratulations...


Last edited by vetements; 1 Week Ago at 11:42 AM.
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