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04-10-2012
  16
front row
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Gender: femme
Posts: 257
favourites:
maison martin margiela
balenciaga
celine
stella mccartney

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04-10-2012
  17
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Lolajazz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Paris
Gender: femme
Posts: 164
5 favourites :
Aider Hackermann
Carven
Martin Margiela
Balenciaga
Dries van Noten

and also :
Valentino
Chanel

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04-10-2012
  18
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GERGIN's Avatar
 
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Haider Ackerman, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten.

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04-10-2012
  19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistress_f View Post
I really feel like this has been the most lackluster season ever since i started following fashion. It's been very disappointing, especially for what concerns Milan and New York... Paris was the only city that caught my interest and not as it used to.
Same here, I almost feel guilty to admit it as even when others talked about irrelevant seasons, I'd always find joy in certain designers.. this time I think I'm mostly conforming, but I don't feel particularly moved by anything.. there are so many missing talents (Jun Takahashi??) and those who did use to fill up the void seem to be going through a very sad route (Marras).

A lot of collections have grown on me though, like DVN. And perhaps influenced by Tentacl V.'s suggestion, I've fallen out of love with the darkness that invaded Paris. I love minimal shapes, and certainly detest the romanticism that designers like Dolce & Gabbana are still swearing by, but all the simple silhouettes, the sci-fi themes, the collections made up of "must-haves", ugh.. I wish someone would master the evolution of 'earthiness' and bring it, but make it so complex that it requires thinking and pondering on individuality. Or something along these lines..

There are still collections that I haven't seen (Christian Wijnants') but my favorites so far and in no particular order:

1. Gary Graham


2. Antoni & Alison



3. Dries Van Noten



4. Glenn Martens



5. Christophe Lemaire



6. Haider Ackermann



7. Comme des Garçons



8. Yohji Yamamoto



9. 3.1 Philip Lim



10. Chloé


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04-10-2012
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Fashion's been so schizophrenic these last several seasons. Too many designers are going back to their roots-- for reassurance, safety, security..., who knows, but there's less daring and too much familiarity-- which is great when you see things in the shops, but incredibly dull for their shows. Maybe it's the rise of bland editors and stylists in the industry. Or maybe it's the fall of the world economy. Despite it all, there are genuine gems of collections here and there, and that, for me, makes fashion still worthwhile, and not quite all boring.

My top 3 S/S 2013 collections:

3. Haider Ackerman

It's unmistakably Ackerman-esqu poetic, graphic and ethereal. He'll always remind me of Romeo Gigli, not in a copycat manner, but for his sensual take on women. But unlike Gigli's women, who comes off of another time and place and so fragile, Ackerman's women is of this modern time and place, and more transcendent than fragile. And his use of polka dots is the best and most refreshing I've ever seen.

2. A.F. Vandervorst

They are the undisputed wild wild dark horse that stole the thunder from all the veteran houses in Paris for me. Darkly seductive and wildly spellbinding, their regal silhouettes made each design a study in beautiful alchemy for a woman's body. Theirs is a quiet beauty that doesn't need hype and an empire to boast and shout of how great these two are. I adore everything about this label, and for S/S 2013 they brought my favourite surreal images-- Magritte, Man Ray and de Chirico to high fashion life.

1. Salvatore Ferragamo

Massimiliano Giometti is my new fashion hero for S/S 2013. His world of ultra-luxury and modern sensuality never comes across crass, vulgar or camp. His is a subtle sleekness that is rooted in classic and timeless forms. I adore every piece he sent down the runway. And maybe because for me, his vision of women struck that perfect balance of modern and classic, luxurious and minimalist, and sexy and sensual-- that's why he has the best collection for S/S 2013.

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04-10-2012
  21
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: downtown...
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s/s 13 is the season of the moo moo...

:p

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04-10-2012
  22
windowshopping
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington DC
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Posts: 25
I can't remember a season when so many designers all seemed to be on the same page...and such a boring page at that. I prefer it when there are so many different trends and propositions going around, that I'm not even sure which ones will be picked up, and over-hyped by the magazines. But this time, from the beginning of NYC straight through to Paris, it was as if I could already see every single editorial that will be published by the major publications next spring....there will be stripes! stripes! stripes!, graphics! graphics! graphics! 60's MOD!!! ( again? ), snakeskin! the"NEW"Minimalism, and some stories about sheers and geometric lace...guess I will save a lot of money not buying any magazines though. It will be interesting to see if they actually try and push all those dark wintery clothes on the general public, but even if they do, it's not likely to work.

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04-10-2012
  23
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I would say S/S 13 was pretty much an average spring season. It was pretty boring but usually I find spring collections a lot more boring than summer collection.

A few key people delivered as always (Yohji, Christopher Kane, Haider)

Then there was a bunch of designers with good, solid collections (Rick Owens, Akris, Ann, Gareth, Givenchy, Celine, Gaultier, Jil, Margiela, Cdg)

And finally there are some really disappointing/missing ones. I miss Gallianos shows for his own label, McQueen is pretty lackluster, Junya Watanbe was kind of lackluster this season too, Antonio Marras is a great designer but seems to be in a depression atm, I miss JPG for Hermes and I miss Riccardos naive, emotional collections, I miss when Ghesquire did great collections (with s/s 09 as the last one being relatively new). Also Alistar Carr was missing, but we'll have him back next season.

The only glimpses of genius were the 3 I mentioned first, with Haider showing is best collection to date, I think.

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04-10-2012
  24
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: chicago
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,954
favorites
1. balenciaga
2. dries van noten
3. vera wang
4. mary katrantzou
5. yohji yamamoto
6. gary graham
7. bottega veneta
8. a.f. vandevorst
9. elizabeth and james
10. marni
bonus: alexandre plokhov (menswear)

disappointments
1. dolce & gabbana (not that i expect greatness, but they have lost it for years now)
2. gucci
3. marc jacobs

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Last edited by happytrail; 04-10-2012 at 08:59 PM.
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04-10-2012
  25
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We will often, in paying attention to the storied brands ossified in fashion's near history, go on a bit of a history lesson. The media engendered Raf -v- Hedi transfer sagas pitted Yves against Christian; Pinault -v- Arnault. It was silly nonsense really, an old score mainly set to rest, but it caught the pack imagination and obviously the two french conglommerates compete in the same contemporary market. We in fact saw a concerted phallanx from brand team LVMH to flank Dior with a co-ordinated riff on the codes of Yves also. A cross brand cohort to poke a finger out of the dark and into the light. Dior's purity, classicism, sensuality, modernism was flanked (in modernist graphics by LV, Fendi - though that is Yves Mondrian dresses nevertheless Dior is avowedly modernist - just by the pure timing of it's iconography), yet the strict minimalism is cut back with japonisme, slouch, the transcendental Jung (Celine, Givenchy). The latter aspects being essentially outside Dior's DNA but linked back via notions of elegance and purity.

The Yves and Dior thing essentially takes us back in time to a point in year 1960. For any not familiar with the basic plot - a potted stroke - Christian Dior passed, in 57, the house reins to the young Yves. But by 1960, after a supposedly poor season industrialist brand owner Marcel Boussac sacks Yves and permits him to be pressganged/conscripted into the french military. Where he lasts for just 20 days. The initiation rites - hazing - he endures and the psychedlics and electromagnetic experimentations in hospital after, says Yves, are what later drive him to drink and drug misjudgements.

Pierre Berge once romantic partner, then solely business partner, sells in 2008/9 after Yves death from brain cancer the art collection they's built up out of proceeds of 'inventing' Pret a Porter for in excess of 300 million euro.

YSL was always the newgen upstart. In a way he and Pierre came to win as the 60's moved on and into the 70's. Dior's iconic moment perhaps remains 1947's new look silhouette. Their DNA is bound up with the 50's. Yves, after he and Pierre set up shop in opposition from 1960 drive a more libidinous, edgier, sexier louche particularly from 1966 with LeSmoking and later see-thru peasant blouses, safari, a path to the botanical gardens of Marrakech and powder haze of Studio 54.

So this is the backdrop to Berge's appointment, aparently, of Mr Hedi Slimane. Hedi delivers a collection of Yves tropes rocked up heroin chic goth stylie to all black. ''Wiccan'' cries Tim Blanks on Style.com. In the aftermath of the collection Hedi transmits an aura as black as his collection into the net via his open spat with NYT's Cathy Horyn and his malicious tweeting.

We are reminded that it's not the end of the world but a New Dawn. Raf turned our heads to light. He was also phallanxed from outside the LVMH stable by Prada, MiuMiu, Chloe, Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, Yohji and no doubt several others.

It was a stale old rivalry in the historical sense but really faced off elegant natural sensuality against a dirtier form of rocked out sex. Cleanliness was not necessarily an old fashioned value. Just attention to the body in honoured preparation. For occasion or sensual ritual. Yves represented, Raf victorious, Hedi in someplace of darkness.The light of SS13 the bright sweet light of the cosmic natural high.


Last edited by Tentacl Ventricl; 04-10-2012 at 09:17 PM.
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04-10-2012
  26
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^wow! so well-written. Thank you.

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04-10-2012
  27
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^ I know.

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04-10-2012
  28
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I think this was one of the best recent fashion months as a whole. It was definitely not a flashy and exciting fashion month, but the quality of design and craftsmanship was quite good. There were some surprising disappointments, but also many things I did not expect to love. This might be a long post...

New York was disappointing in general, but I guess we know what to expect from New York and that isn't something that appeals to me too much. I think New York does have some good shows, but there are just too many that seem to be there just to inflate the schedule. London was one of the best LFW's I've ever seen. Milan was disappointing for a large part but had some real gems. I didn't think anyone would surpass London this time but Paris was beyond anything.

Favourite collections:

1. Chanel - I think Karl brought a quality to the collection that was lost somewhere in the 2000s. Just as I thought Chanel was getting a little lacklustre, I found a new collection to fall in love with.

2. Giles - I think this should be an example for designers. It's bursting with creativity but it's all very tasteful, and I can imagine feeling quite beautiful if I were to wear something from this collection.

3. Rick Owens - It was breathtaking. No more needs to be said.

4. John Galliano - I know it's not the same as Galliano's own ingenuity, but it was lovely nonetheless.

5. Alberta Ferretti - Everything was just so beautiful!

6. Antonio Berardi - I can't really describe why I loved this collection, but I just did. I guess it's the silhouettes and details.

7. Lanvin - Lanvin just never disappoints me. Alber is amazing.

8. Balenciaga - I'm not much of a Balenciaga girl and Ghesquire's aesthetic has never really appealed to me. This collection seemed to go back to the roots of the brand I loved it.

9. Donna Karan - It seems to me that she went beyond what she normally does, and it worked like a charm.

10. Marchesa - Should I feel guilty for putting this on my list? I did think it was very good, though.

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Last edited by TianSoFine; 04-10-2012 at 11:46 PM.
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05-10-2012
  29
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happytrail View Post
favorites
1. balenciaga
2. dries van noten
3. vera wang
4. mary katrantzou
5. yohji yamamoto
6. gary graham
7. bottega veneta
8. a.f. vandevorst
9. elizabeth and james
10. marni
bonus: alexandre plokhov (menswear)

disappointments
1. dolce & gabbana (not that i expect greatness, but they have lost it for years now)
2. gucci
3. marc jacobs
i forgot to add saint laurent to my list of favorites. silly me! beautifully tailored, specific, and a great comeback (and welcome to womenswear) for hedi slimane.

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05-10-2012
  30
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Paris
Gender: femme
Posts: 628
my favourites:
A.F Vandevorst (last 3 seasons)
Gareth Pugh
Chanel
Valentino
Elie Saab

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