This strikes me as a kind of mixture of the last 2 collections: the flowers and the layering. Here we have both flowers and layering. I love all of these looks: 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, and 28. The head pieces are great too.
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Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
seems a really big nod to classic menswear. it's both romantic and very well tailored but also highly whimsical. i love all the details and the textures....i love the classic menswear stripes....
I'll say that I do like this collection......but I'm trying to wrap my head around it. The construction is incredible.......but it's REALLY high on the volume of the sleeves. In some of them...it looks too much like twisted pretzels on their arms...it's not an easy collection for me to digest right now....LOL!!
^^^ Viv had her time and no doubt she was a force of fashion in the 80s, but she's clearly stalled at this point. Her collections have been the samo samo for nearly two decades now. the last time I remember Viv doing something great was back in the early 90s when she sent out silhouettes with the exaggerated Victorian-bums. Rei is completely on another level, plane, even dimension.
I love Rei's beautiful mind. CDG womenswear is the only label from her that matters to me, the other branches are all throwaway and forgettable compared to her womenswear. I don't think I've ever not been impressed with any of her CDG womenswear collections. And this is no exception. Her combination of anarchy, chaos and classlessness makes Punk look ultra-conservative, meek and bland.
There's a kaleidoscopic MadHatter's sort of excess I love about this collection-- except it's not hats; it's bolts of fabrics, shreds of fabric, twists of fabrics, and even colorful children's japanese wrapping paper all meticulously and masterfully, delightfully sewn into garments. I particularly love all the pinstripes because they remind me of her earlier work back in the 80s-- except more deranged , but never undisciplined. And there's nothing retro or nostalgic here; The woman only looks towards pushing ahead. Thom Browne can only wish he could conjure such fantastical silhouettes. Even the plain shoes with ankle socks create a striking compliment to these creations: business women gone mad. None of these strokes of fashion genius will ever see the light of day outside this show and editorials, of course-- but it matters not; she's already worked her wonderful poison into my head.