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01-10-2012
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Quote:
September 30, 2012
Comme des Garçons RTW Spring 2013

For every action, an equal and opposite reaction, no? The brilliant fall Comme des Garçons collection that the fashion cognoscenti — as well as lovers of all things bright and bold in general — went mad for, well, Rei Kawakubo threw it on the scrap heap. In doing so, she multiplied last season’s deliberate two dimensions by three, four or 10. The new stuff was still well within the classic Comme des Garçons range, wonderfully weird in a familiar bunched-up, blobby way.

Starting from the top — the sculptural headgear looked like scrap metal crudely fashioned into hats. It brought to mind the work of John Chamberlain, whose automobile sculptures were shown at the Guggenheim in New York earlier this year. The models wore long, white wigs and asymmetric garments that seemed crumpled, rumpled and sewn up all over to give the impression of compression. The multidimensional stitchwork looked completely random but, given the precision Kawakubo is known for, was probably the work of some masochistic patternmakers. For the most part devoid of color, the show started off in a plain, bleached-out muslin — essentially practice material — before moving into black. Shots of red and blue velvet appeared sparingly.

It provoked and amused. The initial blanche portion of the show was paced at a torturous crawl. With nerves fraying and patience wearing thin, out came the dark stuff practically at a jog. Then it was back to slow motion for the finale, which was fantastic. The models appeared to have taken armfuls of coats and Victorian garb and strapped them around their bodies with two optic white bands. lt made you think of hoarders or a beginner seamstress’ unrestrained experimentation with raw materials. “Crush. Energy explosion,” was Kawakubo’s three-word decryption backstage after the show.


Last edited by MulletProof; 01-10-2012 at 12:47 AM. Reason: Fixed format.
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02-10-2012
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VDCO2Gxlc4

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02-10-2012
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCMl8H-hF2Y

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02-10-2012
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Crushed?

Didnt she do her CDG campaign for mags like crushed magazine pages?

I love how she took piles of clothes and let em hang from the body but paying with the silhouette.

Rei is perfect (no wonder her name sounds like the spanish word for "king").

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02-10-2012
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I could be wrong, but I think the name Rei in Japanese means "rising sun." Not sure, just what I've heard.

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02-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangerine View Post
Funny to read the "crushing" interpretation. I saw it just the opposite; the clothes seem to me to be exploding, like they are erupting from a fabric generator or volcano. It looks chaotic, but also beautiful.

I found the hats funny and interesting in their own right, and they worked with the looks, but were not essential to them.

Wonderful and imaginative, nobody does it like Rei.
Perhaps both interpretations are correct?!
Quote:
Crush. Energy explosion,” was Kawakubo’s three-word decryption backstage after the show.

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02-10-2012
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rei etymologically means a (slightly metallic) sound clear, beautiful, pleasantly cool.



it looks to me like crash or clash rather than crush. a clash between pieces of clothing. and then sparks. this combustion becomes the content of the work.
this collection makes me think of adorno: "the mystery is between them, and it cannot be invoked otherwise than in the figure they create together".

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03-10-2012
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Utterly refreshing; you can always count on Comme des Garçons to provide you with a forward-thinking collection. In a season where so many designers are seemingly lost, Rei knows exactly how to produce something raw and fresh yet familiar and inviting. These clothes, IMO, are the finest marriage of passion, creativity, and technique... The last 3 looks are what dreams are made of.

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03-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runner View Post
rei etymologically means a (slightly metallic) sound clear, beautiful, pleasantly cool.



it looks to me like crash or clash rather than crush. a clash between pieces of clothing. and then sparks. this combustion becomes the content of the work.
this collection makes me think of adorno: "the mystery is between them, and it cannot be invoked otherwise than in the figure they create together".
thanks for the etymology and philosophy lessons runner...
makes perfect sense to me...
i like the musical reference in both cases...


tang- i'd say your instincts are pretty much spot on in this case...
:p

watching the video was good...
seeing the rear views and the movement makes the whole collection come alive in a much more real and relevant way...

i think the first 1/2 is more successful---
all the folds and details get lost in the black fabrics, imo...
i also felt like the hats were hard sculpture while the garments were soft sculptures...another clash, of sorts...

outstanding work ...

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04-10-2012
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this is by far my favourite collection this season, the only one that really moves me

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04-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey View Post
thanks for the etymology and philosophy lessons runner...
makes perfect sense to me...
i like the musical reference in both cases...


tang- i'd say your instincts are pretty much spot on in this case...
:p

watching the video was good...
seeing the rear views and the movement makes the whole collection come alive in a much more real and relevant way...

i think the first 1/2 is more successful---
all the folds and details get lost in the black fabrics, imo...
i also felt like the hats were hard sculpture while the garments were soft sculptures...another clash, of sorts...

outstanding work ...
agree agree agree!!!

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04-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runner View Post
rei etymologically means a (slightly metallic) sound clear, beautiful, pleasantly cool.



it looks to me like crash or clash rather than crush. a clash between pieces of clothing. and then sparks. this combustion becomes the content of the work.
this collection makes me think of adorno: "the mystery is between them, and it cannot be invoked otherwise than in the figure they create together".
excellent. Adorno speaks of course of the metier of Beethoven's late period, the rise and fall from hope to catastrophe. He says that out of the silence comes the explosion. The primal moment.

The best part of the Style.com review spoke of compression of the body. Via those straps but also in the piled constriction. I imagine perhaps a point of silence before the garmientiary body explodes propelling the spirit deep into the cosmos. It was the theme of CdeG (and I thought Sarah Burton) last season. This season we've also the explosiary big bang prints at ie Fendi and MiuMiu. And bees. And the geometric sweet honeycomb cells of The Queen. It seems that McQueen is still and the only brand over there at PPR with any due integration.

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06-10-2012
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or from some elements of her work it could be seen as "parataxis" dressmaking, in a way.


pics by tsukahara at yomiuri
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06-10-2012
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Quote:
or from some elements of her work it could be seen as "parataxis" dressmaking,
Yes, there is something "dadaist" about her work...I agree! Thanks again for the extra pictures.

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11-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Not Plain Jane View Post
Yes, there is something "dadaist" about her work...I agree! Thanks again for the extra pictures.
Great insight! Yes, definitely "dadaist". In that way I think she has more in common with Schiaparelli than Prada (a connection that really wasn't as strong as the Met exhibition had hoped...).

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