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05-10-2005
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This one is still gelling for me, but I do like it, and it does feel like Rei's play with icons has finally come to fruition.

I think this is a very multi-layered show. This "Lost Empire" theme has a lot of resonances. The "Land of Hope and Glory" stuff could read as patriotic to one person, and satirical to another...I imagine the intent is for both meanings to be conveyed together, to prod the viewer into working out their own resolution to that dissonance.

The handicraft of it is very prominent, and very visible. I may be reaching too far here, but in a way the collection itself is an empire, and Rei the empress of it. It could be something as simple as a celebration of the mastery of textiles and technique, the regal feeling of shaping the clothes and controlling their destiny. And then, to let them go, to send them out on the runway and lose that control.

And there, too, maybe it's both a celebration and a satire, because the fashion industry itself is also an empire, and one that seems to be in increasing danger of being "Lost". This harks back to what travolta said earlier in the thread:

Quote:
nothing is timeless, fallen beasts and empires and ideologies. they are acknowlegding that it's time fashion enter a new era... one that isn't perhaps so reliant on conjuring up crusted over nostalgia to sell to the masses.
So maybe that message is in there, too. Maybe the clash between the "tribal" tartans and the "imperial" flags and crowns says something about the current state of fashion and the assimilation of tribal house identities into corporate conglomerates.

But out of all of these, it feels most like this is celebrating Rei as the queen of her own work, the hand that touches the cloth, the feeling of new shapes and new textures.

There is an obvious joy evident in the making of these garments. It will be interesting to see how they translate this to the stores, but there is definitely beauty here. An odd, provocative beauty, but beauty nonetheless.


Last edited by The Baron; 05-10-2005 at 12:05 PM.
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05-10-2005
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Quote:
HOGWASH...!!......
it's nothing of the sort...
that may be what some would like it to be...
but it is in reality a vehicle for showing the clothing to the buyers and editors in order to sell a product....
simple as that...

and a striking presentation is simply good for business...
that's actually what i meant exactly

edit: i'm just a bit round about and abstract at spitting it out

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05-10-2005
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you're kidding?!?!......


thanks for making me laugh today....

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^ hey, i never said being a pragmatist was one of my strengths ...

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it would be interesting if she actually sold wraps with arm holes/ legholes that you could customize to a shirt/ dress/ pants etc etc..so on and so forth. kinda like the Undercover collection except with some tartan pattern and lots more variations. 3 shirts/ 1 pair of trousers/ 2 skirts and a dress thrown in for good measure ;P

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05-10-2005
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I just love it. Remember the "one piece" of Linea? She made "square piece" in AW03 - jkts, bags out of a square piece of fabric. Now it is one piece to the extreme:-) as it looks like it's a long piece of fabrics twisted into clothes.

I can't believe that the clothes (joint of different parts of the garment together, an officer jkt, a huge tartan and a giant skirt) are real:-)) Like I couldn't believe she actually sew the camouflage tapes in the SS collection some years ago. I thought it was a trick:-))


I read some of the "iconoclast words" in the crowns:-) too. But I think the clothes don't look punkish to me. It's not about angry, or anti... It looks powerful. Like the red jkt with big shoulder pads. So it was a suprise when I read IHT. Do you think it's punk, Helena and Johnny? You know better than I:-)

I don't know what she meant by "lost empire". Maybe it was shown in the end when models wore crowns in ther shorts. It looks just funny:-) - one never looks serious in shorts:-P

It strikes me how by using "simple" and "primitive" techniques - like the wrap and twist she made such a wonderful collection. And thanks for the explanation Helena:-)

I have heard the the main line of SS was selling out so fast that the Guerrillas hardly got a piece. Yes, Johnny, I also have heard about long standing ovation, too:-)


Last edited by nqth; 05-10-2005 at 01:06 PM.
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05-10-2005
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Great post Nqth, always like to hear what you say on comme, given your knowledge of past collections etc. "one never looks serious in shorts" is one of my favourite statements from Tfs! It's nice to hear a simple light-hearted truth in this over-intellectualised world we (virtually) inhabit

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05-10-2005
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Thank you Johnny:-)

Maybe she pointed out "lost fashion (empire)"? The clothes don't
look "tailored" do they:-P

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05-10-2005
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mainline of SS...
do you mean the bondage ballerina stuff nqth?...
they can have it from the US stores then...
it didn't sell over here...



nqth...speaking as a punk myself...:p
it's pretty much just anything or anyone who is anti-establishment...
someone or thing that doesn't follow the rules...usually of society...
challenges the system, etc...
rebelliousness is the main thing....
and in that sense...i would say that rei is and always has been a 'punk'...


but i think that fashion people immediately say PUNK anytime they see red tartan...
...

edit -
just like they say GOTH anytime they see black....

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Last edited by softgrey; 05-10-2005 at 01:13 PM.
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05-10-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey
mainline of SS...
do you mean the bondage ballerina stuff nqth?...
they can have it from the US stores then...
it didn't sell over here...
Oh sorry, I did write SS instead of AW :-) I mean the Broken Bride collection.

Thanks for the explaination:-) Yes, she is and must be the most "established" punk :-P


Last edited by nqth; 05-10-2005 at 01:20 PM.
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05-10-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by softgrey
but i think that fashion people immediately say PUNK anytime they see red tartan...
...

edit -
just like they say GOTH anytime they see black....


I have decided, ever since Suzy was confused and baffled (in her own words) by something I got loud and clear, that I don't need to take what I read in IHT very seriously anymore :p

Sometimes she has a good point, and other times I have no idea what she's on about (and I suspect she may not either, but she has to turn in a story whether she has a clue or not, whereas I have the choice to remain silent )

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05-10-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fashionista-ta

Sometimes she has a good point, and other times I have no idea what she's on about (and I suspect she may not either, but she has to turn in a story whether she has a clue or not, whereas I have the choice to remain silent )


Comedy karma for you, madame!

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05-10-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nqth
Oh sorry, I did write SS instead of AW :-) I mean the Broken Bride collection.

Thanks for the explaination:-) Yes, she is and must be the most "established" punk :-P
thanks for the clarification...
yep...that stuff is selling like hot cakes...

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05-10-2005
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the crowns remind me of a tom sach's sculpture....






from firstview.com

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from firstview.com

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