PARIS, oktober 4, 2005 – Usually you count on a Comme des Garçons show to plumb mysterious depths, but for spring, the mystery was slap-bang there on the surface. It looked like nothing so much as an homage to Vivienne Westwood’s royal collections. Ringletted girls in crowns, wearing Union Jack-printed underwear and punkish tartans, proceeded up and down the runway to the strains of Coronation marches, Church of England hymns, and even, gorblimey, "Land of Hope and Glory." It was all — and this was the shock in this house of intellectual subtlety — puzzlingly literal. But for why?["BUT WHY?"?]
Backstage, [WANT FIRST NAME TOO?]Kawakubo shook her head and denied that the collection was about England, or Japanese tourist souvenirs of Britishness, or a romantic gesture of support for a city that has been subjected to bombings and in which she has her Dover Street shopping complex. She conceded that there were references to “a lost Empire,” but more importantly, she said, it was about “cutting without a pattern.” All the pieces had been draped on the dress-stand, creating whorls of tartan bunched around shoulder lines of jackets, wrappings of tulle that read as bulbous approximations of boleros, and bunchy skirts, swagged and ruched at the sides.
Some of it triggered recollections of Kawakubo’s infamous “lumps and bumps” collection from the late eighties. But where those earlier clothes provoked the most adverse audience reaction of Kawakubo’s career, these outfits didn’t have it in them to cause offense. Instead, they were just plain difficult to fathom. It’s odd to see Rei Kawakubo do anything on the mild side; then again, perhaps it’s refreshing to discover that even geniuses have their off-seasons.
And this is, "constitutionally", our (the Scots') national anthem..... .
A travesty for sure ... and rather dated ... Marshal Wade indeed You would think it would have been struck out by now. You guys need a professional apologizer like the late Pope or Bill Clinton to take care of all these old matters
Baron, thanks for the lyrics ... fascist definitely occurred to me but, not being up on my Sex Pistols ... well ... She's no fascist or fashionist as far as I can tell ... not terribly apt label for someone whose whole family stayed in London as the fascist bombs rained down ...
__________________ Luxury is living a simple, elegant, and responsible life. Luxury is a reduction.
Backstage, [WANT FIRST NAME TOO?]Kawakubo shook her head and denied that the collection was about England, or Japanese tourist souvenirs of Britishness, or a romantic gesture of support for a city that has been subjected to bombings and in which she has her Dover Street shopping complex.
Are those the writer's ideas?
So "cutting without pattern". Brilliant:-) The skirts are drapped from a piece almost without cutting, so they are "swagged and ruched at the sides". So simple, and "natural" isn't it. Why the writer asked why?
Just some random last thoughts about this lovely collection….. and a little note to those mocking the significance
Rei always introduced her ideas gradually and well ahead–Example: in the early 90s during austere/deconstruction she gradually re-introduced color: first in muddy tertiairy tints to end in an explosion of color in the mid-90s -> still well ahead of the much heralded ‘return to color’ in mainstream fashion…in fact, it was considered shocking & bad taste at the time.
Her current play on graphics and the new silhouette she is introducing with this collection are v. interesting and I’m excited to see where it all goes…As she states herself, the message with CdG is much more of the aesthetic and not the political kind.
“Cutting without pattern” as you noted Ngth