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12-08-2004
  1
flaunt the imperfection
 
softgrey's Avatar
 
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Continues Family of Brands-Carpe Diem, Linea, etc...
for faust and runner*
*
Seize the day
Paris, New York
With so many emerging labels seeking to establish themselves as antidotes to more commercial fashion houses, we feel that it's time to profile one of the original icons of the anti-establishment, currently undertaking a unique expansion. Based in Perugia, Italy, and founded by Maurizio Altieri in 1996 as an offshoot to Chrome Hearts, Carpe Diem has set itself on a path of innovation which has grown into various collections each one exemplary with regard to experimentation and craftsmanship. Collectively known as Continues Collection, the line is divided into footwear and leather pieces (Carpe Diem) and a selection of knits (L'Maltieri).
More recently, two new lines (Linea and Sartoria) were introduced at Colette in Paris. Linea is based on a 3x3 modular system: light/medium/heavy white/grey/black top/middle/bottom. Linea is composed mostly of laser cut 3/4 length jackets, cotton trousers, and engineered t-shirts all of which are interchangeable, layered, and conceptually linked. Like Carpe Diem, Sartoria (the Learjet of the fleet) continues in the "arte povera" aesthetic of crushed, washed, and treated leathers. But for this collection, customers must travel to a trailer truck parked in a Paris garage and get muslin fitted and digitally photographed, and then wait 60 days for delivery of a made-to-measure item constructed out of leathers once buried in the desert of Afghanistan.
As with all "anti-fashion " labels, Carpe Diem doesn't advertise, and refuses all editorials in defiance of the standards of the fashion industry. One of the most distinguishing features of the collection is a requirement that the clothing be displayed on meat hooks, a nod to the founding practices of the label as a leather house. But before you go running to A boutique in New York, Maxfield's in Los Angeles, or L'Eclaireur or Colette in Paris, be warned that their refusal to play the fashion game also has its downside. Carpe Diem never goes on sale.

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12-08-2004
  2
fashion icon
 
Mutterlein's Avatar
 
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I wonder how much they insist on not playing the fashion game when it comes to prices.

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12-08-2004
  3
rising star
 
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I love carpe in all its incarnations... Boots are soo hip. Just tried on my first ready to wear pieces from them and love it. $$$$$$$$
No sales, except at Barney's... I've seen pieces on sale there for around 60% off, even shoes. Not at the beloved A though.
Great article Softey...

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13-08-2004
  4
El Viaje Definitivo
 
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thanks softgrey!
another requirement of Linea is that lighting be like a glimmer in the dark of night.
actually it's as dark as night.

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13-08-2004
  5
trendsetter
 
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Good article softgrey. I didn't know any of that - I had wondered what Linea was when runner posts that he wears it. I have to confess though that the following passage - " But for this collection, customers must travel to a trailer truck parked in a Paris garage and get muslin fitted and digitally photographed, and then wait 60 days for delivery of a made-to-measure item constructed out of leathers once buried in the desert of Afghanistan. " - sounds a little like a pastiche of an over-precious fashion designer!

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13-08-2004
  6
V.I.P.
 
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Thanks Softie. Where is the article from? I also heard that it goes on sale at Barneys (against the rule), and as runner said it goes on sale in Japan. The clothes are superb and I can see where the high price tag comes from. Also, IF boutique has a selection of Carpe Diem as well. Another thing the article doesn't mention that Carpe Diem pieces usually come with their own tube case.

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15-08-2004
  7
Mannikin
 
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I have not seen much of their clothes (only a fwe photos in the December 2002 issue of Vogue) but I can say I love their aesthetic very much and will check them out. I like the idea of "light/medium/heavy white/grey/black top/middle/bottom" very much. Sort of standard chic. I also love the fact that they don't advertise or do editorials because that makes your clothes not watered down and discreet chic.

Thanks, thanks, thanks soft.

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15-08-2004
  8
Heated
 
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Am I the only one that thinks he sounds a little more than slightly pretentious? I've seen their stuff and it is great, but knowing all this anti-fashion business annoys me and turns me off. If I were their target customer, would I want to jump through hoops and drive to the some rusty garage in a Parisian suburb just to try on some old clothes? In the end it's just clothes and it's just fashion, and this Altieri fellow comes off as a self-important boor.

It's along the same lines as that London fashion protest a couple months ago organized by people like Karen Elson and Bay Garnett. Yeah, protest the tyranny of fashion and then show up a month later at Chanel couture--just like Bay did!

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15-08-2004
  9
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Quote:
Originally posted by chickonspeed@Aug 15 2004, 10:35 AM
Yeah, protest the tyranny of fashion and then show up a month later at Chanel couture--just like Bay did!
[snapback]333031[/snapback]

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15-08-2004
  10
kit
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I don't know if anyone has already posted this , but much of this article seems relevant in this thread :-

http://www.iht.com/articles/527360.htm

My apologies , if anyone has .

KIT

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15-08-2004
  11
kit
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BTW , Chick

I used to teach Karen Elson , who comes from Oldham , near Manchester !!!
There's nothing like biting the hand that feeds you .

KIT

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15-08-2004
  12
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More recently, two new lines (Linea and Sartoria) were introduced at Colette in Paris. Linea is based on a 3x3 modular system: light/medium/heavy white/grey/black top/middle/bottom. Linea is composed mostly of laser cut 3/4 length jackets, cotton trousers, and engineered t-shirts all of which are interchangeable, layered, and conceptually linked.

That sounds great, but I have to agree with those who would be opposed to having to go through so much trouble to get clothes and then have to pay extremely high proces for them. Sounds like more trouble than it's worth, although I'd like to see some pictures of these pieces.

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16-08-2004
  13
flaunt the imperfection
 
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you're welcome everyone...faust...it's from hintmag...

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16-08-2004
  14
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Quote:
Originally posted by chickonspeed@Aug 15 2004, 11:35 AM
Am I the only one that thinks he sounds a little more than slightly pretentious? I've seen their stuff and it is great, but knowing all this anti-fashion business annoys me and turns me off. If I were their target customer, would I want to jump through hoops and drive to the some rusty garage in a Parisian suburb just to try on some old clothes? In the end it's just clothes and it's just fashion, and this Altieri fellow comes off as a self-important boor.

It's along the same lines as that London fashion protest a couple months ago organized by people like Karen Elson and Bay Garnett. Yeah, protest the tyranny of fashion and then show up a month later at Chanel couture--just like Bay did!
[snapback]333031[/snapback]

You definitely have a point. I wouldn't go through all that trouble... but I would gladly settel for being able to afford what I see in stores

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16-08-2004
  15
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faust's Avatar
 
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I was in Barneys yesterday (fall preview time ), and I was informed that they didn't buy Carpe Diem this season. The salesperson might not have know what she was talking about since they did have the footwear. I encountered a new ridicilous price point, a pair of Carpe Diem boots for $1740.

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