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21-02-2012
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David Koma F/W 12.13 London










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futuristic and/or cerebral. just enormous, huge, great !!!! doghead prints are great, outlines and tailoring too. nothing bad there !!!

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21-02-2012
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Miu Miu | S/S 2008 - Loove.

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22-02-2012
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The strict, high, or buttoned up neckline is seemingly ubiquitous right now and David Koma works that motif into this collection as well as anyone.

In it's strict body conscious aspects Koma's work has a similar feel to Victoria Beckham's offering this season save that he surpassed her.

The inspiration of Marchesa Casati could lead many places but given the references also to 20's art deco and the 60's minimalism of Courreges and Rabanne, I take the central thought to be of her status as a muse to the Italian Futurists, those lovers of all things youthful and speedy.

Similarly with the inspiration of Louis Icart we're to think specifically perhaps of his work Speed Nymphs with Greyhounds c.1930.

Those flourishes of fabric in peplums, appendages to skirts, capes, or something akin to curtains billowing out of windows, again evoke a feeling of speed just like the attire of the Speed Nymphs in the Icart work in question. And we can perhaps also think of Marchesa Casati's femme fatale strolls with cheetahs on leads.

Those large metallic eyelets geometrically arranged do evoke body as building, modernist skyscraper. A phallic body. The soft folds of the 'curtains' are more gynaeic.

All the references to dogs are at first problemmatic as dogs generally evoke the domestic and that is not a place we inhabit with this work. The trompe l'oeil cutouts with sheer panels about half way through that at first sight appear perhaps like jigsaw pieces in fact yield the silhouettes of dog's heads. The little bit of extra volume of fabric at the upper arm becoming the dog's ear. Not greyhounds this time, perhaps more like poodles. But clearly Koma's woman is not a domestic goddess but a futurebound femme fatale who speeds through life as a living work of art and with a penchant for danger.

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