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15-07-2009
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bbofbalenciaga's Avatar
 
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As said in Vogue Spain, this coat from the fall 08 collection of YSL costs 41.000€.

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15-07-2009
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Are we judging if outfits are demi-couture based solely on their price tag? Or is craftsmanship part of the process? What are the factors that separate a genuine couture piece from the masses of clothes?

A side note, I am getting sick of how the word "couture" is freely used when it pertains to fashion by the media.

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Last edited by eternitygoddess; 15-07-2009 at 09:04 PM.
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15-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gius View Post
i haven't heard of 'semi' being used (...)
Perhaps Scott has coined a new term; remember where it started, generations from now. :p I think the followers of this thread would find Holly Fulton's biography (and work, of course) interesting and helpful in defining this... missing link. She doesn't describe herself as a demi-couturière but I think she describes some of the processes, while maintaining a separation from the term that gives her more authenticity, ie., never trust the punk (for example) who calls himself such, before the label has been applied by others; then gripe about it.

Quote:
Ethos, technique & inspiration



“The ethos of my work is to capture a couture finish and an attention to detail within ready to wear. I aim to re-interpret the traditions of handwork and the use of techniques within couture into contemporary materials and silhouettes to create strong, cohesive collections of womenswear and jewellery. The use of decorative surfaces is vital within my work and I am constantly endeavouring to create a challenging yet beautiful surface which pushes the boundaries of modern fashion.

My working technique begins with drawing extensively and working through my references with constant re-interpretation. I believe the sheer amount of work and processes involved in producing my work makes it slightly unique. I love the extra dimension working with different materials has brought to my design, from crystallised elements to electrical cables. The scope for future exploration of materials continually pushes me and my work.

I hope that my love of surface sets my designs apart. My shapes lend themselves to decoration and every stage of the process from the initial conception to the technical lay plans informs my designs. Always attracted to strong pieces in terms of design, I have a huge love of art deco and Bauhaus styles, cubist fashion and the geometry within all these genres and the re-interpretation of these into contemporary materials gives me huge inspiration. Surface decoration allows me scope to move forward in fashion. Through this I would hope my aesthetic differs from that of other designers.

My current signature style contains lots of geometric pattern lavished onto simply cut garments; big, luxurious, simple shapes with bold jewellery; bejewelled crystallised dresses and an eclectic mix of modern materials with a high end finish.”

© Holly Fulton 2009 | Credits
hollyfulton.com

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15-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilaughead View Post
I think there's an article on demi-couture (specifically Olivier at Rochas) in Vogue US July 2006. I can't find it online, though.
That's exactly what I thought of when I read the title of this thread, wish we had the accompanying article.


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15-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Street_a_Licious View Post
hm? isn't 3000 "normal" for a runway P-A-P cocktail dress? especially from Balenciaga? a simple cashmere cardigan from Vuitton costs 1300 already....
sadly, this is indeed true. it's not unusual at all for a brand like Balenciaga's p-a-p prices to be upwards of $2k per garment.

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16-07-2009
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oups ,my reply to Scott, i didn't even even really address his questions i realise i am rambling about some other thing.

i think it's not really about taking to heart that it is "by hand" .. The most important thing is that it reaches a very high level of artistry and craftmanship, often achieved by taking a lot of painstaking work.. Usually,, possible only when done by hand, it relishes the best kind of control (or lack of:p ..).
answering eternitygoddess's question too. the high price tag is just an expected thing to come out of it.. with all of that blood and sweat and time/hour/research put into the design.



it's interesting, all this just reminds me of textile designers/artists And even more so, the ones that create clothing out of their work.

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16-07-2009
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There's also Calvin Klein s/s '09

A lot of the fabrics were woven by hand

The two white ones here, from silk ribbons
(the center one for sure.)


and this one

thecelebritycity.com

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16-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gius View Post
i think it's not really about taking to heart that it is "by hand" .. The most important thing is that it reaches a very high level of artistry and craftmanship, often achieved by taking a lot of painstaking work.. Usually,, possible only when done by hand, it relishes the best kind of control (or lack of:p ..).
answering eternitygoddess's question too. the high price tag is just an expected thing to come out of it.. with all of that blood and sweat and time/hour/research put into the design.
I would agree with gius' definition of demi-couture.

I personally love the idea of demi-couture. There's something very romantic about it (or maybe it's just the way Olivier described it and created it at Rochas).

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16-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Street_a_Licious View Post
hm? isn't 3000 "normal" for a runway P-A-P cocktail dress? especially from Balenciaga? a simple cashmere cardigan from Vuitton costs 1300 already....
You're probably right :p
Let's post this one then
Balenciaga FW08


The dress is retailed at £ 46,650

style,HB scans

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16-07-2009
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okay i was a bit confused about my terminology. semi describes that certain rawness of craftsmanship while demi is a more accessible variation of HC. but yes,jen,semi was term MMM used to describe(and stamp)his a/w 97 collection. the one in which the pieces looked as if they had been recycled from dress form coverings. all raw,structured and poetic.

maybe we should have a semi-couture topic as well? i have some lovely examples of this method.

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16-07-2009
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^ yeah, please share them with us

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16-07-2009
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yeah i'm curious to see your side of it, scott i have looked at some designers you mention here and there that do handwork but i don't feel that all of the work might be classed as couture.. they just seem to focus more on imparting a made-by-a-living-person feel...

it's interesting also, with designers like MMM and Eric Tibusch (and Holly Fulton, that jennifer posted) their work is up to that level but they can use the most simple materials like recycled denim or who knows what.. I think many couturiers would argue couture being only about using the highest craftmanship and the very best materials/fabrics. I could imagine my instructor having a huge fit

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Last edited by gius; 17-07-2009 at 01:48 AM.
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16-07-2009
  28
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Here's a detail of that Saint Laurent jacket.
I wonder what material and technique has been used here?
(Mr Gius; any ideas?? )



Also this piece from
Yves Saint Laurent
S/S 09



I think someone said it was hand-cut leather (?)
(I could have just completely made that up )
I've been trying to find the price everywhere; I remember it being posted.
$25,000?


style.com

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16-07-2009
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personally, i'd guess the second YSL to be be vinyl. i can't imagine such thin leatherstrips hanging like that. definitely NOT handcut, as all the squares are uniform.

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16-07-2009
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I can't fathom how YSL or Balenciaga could survive the recession with those prices.... yet they continue, seemingly unfazed.

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