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16-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crying Diamonds View Post
Here's a detail of that Saint Laurent jacket.
I wonder what material and technique has been used here?
http://www.style.com/slideshows/fash...ILS/00480m.jpg
and here's a detail of that detail :p


they seem to be just beads.
mulletproof calls them pailettes.



i think the second YSL is by machine too. there is laser nowadays.
does anyone agree/disagree.. the work of a person is a tragedy if you can find a way to do it faster, more precise by machine.
guess you have to draw the line somewhere...

for myself i sometimes go back and forth. i don't always have the facilities to do something faster, so i do it by hand. but i haven't got to the point where i feel it's unnecessary work. from a business perspective, maybe i am a would-be failure So thank god for birthing the word demi-couture

img src: celebritycity.com

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Last edited by gius; 17-07-2009 at 01:49 AM. Reason: added credits
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17-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dior_couture1245 View Post
I personally love the idea of demi-couture. There's something very romantic about it (or maybe it's just the way Olivier described it and created it at Rochas).
Do you remember what he said? I thought the article was on tFS --I remember seeing the word demi-couture a couple of times.. but I can't find it

I'm kind of rethinking what I wrote earlier, the 'definition' of the term
I posted Calvin Klein SS 09 after it. I don't think those pieces have as much work at all compared to the Balenciaga posted so far, and Theysken's/Rodarte's work.. I think their fabrics were woven by hand mostly because it lets more air pass through, with the ribbons they're using. It could be more function rather than artistry

I've seen interviews with Ralph Rucci and he says he does some couture but he calls it RTW so that they can put a lower price point on it. Seriously.
Couture pricetags often denote something near unreachable...

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17-07-2009
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beads =/= pailettes

pailettes = sequins

and sequins those are not

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17-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crying Diamonds View Post
Here's a detail of that Saint Laurent jacket.

Also this piece from
Yves Saint Laurent
S/S 09
http://www.style.com/slideshows/fash...WAY/00150m.jpg

I think someone said it was hand-cut leather (?)
(I could have just completely made that up )
I've been trying to find the price everywhere; I remember it being posted.
$25,000?


style.com
Right..According to US Bazaar January 2009, it costs $24,995..I doubt it was hand-cut, because it would be totally unnecessary and lavish to made by hand and apparently laser is more efficient and more accurate in this part .

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17-07-2009
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Yah . . I think my whole hand-cut leather idea stemmed from when the collection first came out and I was trying to figure out why it cost £15,000 . . . It's clearly machine.


Dolce & Gabbana
A/W 07-08



This Swarovski crystal embellished dress apparently cost a very round £100k.


style.com

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17-07-2009
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Francesco Scognamiglio
S/S 09






Quote:
Silk gown, about £23,600, Francesco Scognamiglio

style.com
scanned by member: Miss NYC from u.K. Harper's Bazaar February 2009

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17-07-2009
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i veto the Dolce. while it's pretty, i wouldn't say its got anything to do with Haute Couture. unless all the crystals are elaborately handapplied in some atelier in Paris...

high prices =/= demi-couture.

it has to have something beside embroidery to really "elevate it" from just expensive and elaborate RTW. a certain artful touch. some special technique.

like those t-shirts from The Row with the single seam in the back which was sewn in a certain special couture technique (forgot the specifics).

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17-07-2009
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i'm pretty sure i read in an article it is just a french seam ^
Quote:
Originally Posted by Street_a_Licious View Post
beads =/= pailettes

pailettes = sequins

and sequins those are not
it is the same technique
beadwork

they all act the same , sequin,paillette, bugle,seed,crystal -doesn't matter. they all go under the term "beads" and "beadwork"
and are all applied the same way/s

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Last edited by gius; 17-07-2009 at 03:12 PM.
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17-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Street_a_Licious View Post
i veto the Dolce. while it's pretty, i wouldn't say its got anything to do with Haute Couture. unless all the crystals are elaborately handapplied in some atelier in Paris...

high prices =/= demi-couture.

it has to have something beside embroidery to really "elevate it" from just expensive and elaborate RTW. a certain artful touch. some special technique.

like those t-shirts from The Row with the single seam in the back which was sewn in a certain special couture technique (forgot the specifics).

I think at the time it actually did have something to do with Haute Couture as those dresses were meant to somewhat compete with Atelier Versace.

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17-07-2009
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but except for the crystals, it's rather.... plain, no?

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17-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Street_a_Licious View Post
i veto the Dolce. while it's pretty, i wouldn't say its got anything to do with Haute Couture. unless all the crystals are elaborately handapplied in some atelier in Paris...

high prices =/= demi-couture.

it has to have something beside embroidery to really "elevate it" from just expensive and elaborate RTW. a certain artful touch. some special technique.

like those t-shirts from The Row with the single seam in the back which was sewn in a certain special couture technique (forgot the specifics).
I'm not seeing why we need to argue about what is and isn't demi-couture, as there is no formal definition and it doesn't have any of the firm rules of haute couture, but price seems to be just as good of a way to separate it from normal RTW as anything. Even some of (in my opinion) the best couture has little in the way of special techniques. Look at Chanel couture, for example. Beautiful clothes, but most of them (sans the S/S09 collection) owe their brillance to beautiful beading and embellishment, not to sewing skills. (By the way, the Row's back seam is just a French seam, if I remember correctly, and it's not something that is all that special.)

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17-07-2009
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you know, Lesage has often done embroidery for Dolce & Gabbana..
they would be out of business without RTW

I saw a clip of the man in a little show I think it was. He seems quite happy about it actually

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17-07-2009
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Ugh.. the embroidery is simply a mess

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17-07-2009
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Quote:
i veto the Dolce. while it's pretty, i wouldn't say its got anything to do with Haute Couture. unless all the crystals are elaborately handapplied in some atelier in Paris...

high prices =/= demi-couture.

it has to have something beside embroidery to really "elevate it" from just expensive and elaborate RTW. a certain artful touch. some special technique.
I was thinking the same thing. The only reason I see why the Dolce's price is high is because they piled loads of crystals on it.

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18-07-2009
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I would love to know all the prices from the final gowns of Dolce FW07,especially the dress on Snejana!

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