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15-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fashionista-ta View Post
Surely you understand my point?

I don't think the Jil Sander woman really cares what everyone else is doing or what the mainstream look is. Jil Sander exists apart from that, and has an audience no matter what, if it's done well.

Like how Tilda Swinton remains Tilda Swinton regardless of what fool trend everyone else is chasing.
Their business level is rather large, at that level it's not the die hard fans to guarantee the business, but also pedestrians cashing in, to reach the goal that's deemed as a success for them. How to do so? Hype, isn't it?

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Last edited by Pricciao; 15-03-2017 at 02:59 PM.
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16-03-2017
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Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
If i was the CEO of Jil Sander, i would totally change the strategy of the brand.
JS NAVY in terms of price point and fashion and also quality is really good. Now that Marni is in creative trouble, they can totally take their clientele. The JS NAVY line should just become JS and keep the price point and all, and then try to make it work.

Jil Sander may be a great name but i don't see myself spending 4000 Euros on a coat from a brand with no real creative integrity.

Prada really did wrong to those brands. It's really a pity to see what Helmut Lang and Jil Sander has become. And to think that the founders of those houses are still alive is even more heartbreaking.
JIl Sander Navy is exactly one such example of an ugly stepchild being born from the missteps of when Ms. Sander herself was no longer there, and had been released at the time when she, on the other end of the market, had just launched her wildly popular venture with Uniqlo, +J - Taking into account you could get Jil Sander cut and designed clothes made in a decent way at such a price point, it was a very unfortunate timing for Gibo group to have launched a line that was still by far too expensive for fairly mediocre quality and design. Navy lacked the rigor, precision and depth of 'real' Jil Sander design and employed basic fabrics that could have just as well been had at Uniqlo, at a price point (300€ and upward for a cotton shirt, 700€ and more for a simple blazer) that did not help to open the house of Jil Sander to a wider audience - It should have been marketed more along the lines of Hugo Boss' Hugo line, with more or less those price. To sum it up, Navy became nothing but another 'department store' collection, whose marketing principle seemed old and redundant, a lot thanks to the severe competition done by the house founder. Ms. Sander apparently hated this collection and wanted to fold the line as she rightfully didn't believe in it, but it was autonomously run by another team and she had no authority over her own brand anymore, either.

From my understanding, they should reform the mainline completely, make sure the line reflects varying price points - there is no reason why a standardized pair of suit trousers in Italian wool suiting should cost more than 400€ or a cotton poplin shirt more than 300€ - Perhaps this is the problem of the entire luxury goods market that we came accustomed to fairly basic product costing a price it should not.

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16-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pricciao View Post
Their business level is rather large, at that level it's not the die hard fans to guarantee the business, but also pedestrians cashing in, to reach the goal that's deemed as a success for them. How to do so? Hype, isn't it?
No, in the case of Jil Sander, building a hyped business around a designer that probably leads the brand in a direction too far away from the houses' DNA is exactly what gives it the last killing blow.

You have to understand people were willing to spend a lot of money on Jil Sander clothes that were otherwise not much following the fashion mainstream at all - Similar to how Margiela, Helmut Lang or even the Japanese designers work. You buy into an aesthetic that is timeless and whose design is imbued with actual value and depth, and the person that gets that will notice and just turn away once those values are no longer reflected in the product.

Jil Sander was great because her very design was not only 'minimal' for the sake of an aesthetic minimalism but because her clothes were purposeful wardrobe solutions for people leading an active lifestyle.

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16-03-2017
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Time changes. I think why Jil was successful, it's because there was a long going trend about dressing neat up till Celine hype went calm. There indeed are people relate Jil to some version of Saville Row. But more I feel it's the Balenciaga/Calvin Klein/Jil Sander bunch that really made it great. Their business went down after it faded.
Margiela is able to pull that string, that's great for them. Jil is a different case. I'm not suggesting they should go with everyone else. But their aesthetic is their weakness at the current state of fashion.

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16-03-2017
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Clare Waight Keller in at Givenchy... source: voguerunway instagram

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16-03-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pricciao View Post
Time changes. I think why Jil was successful, it's because there was a long going trend about dressing neat up till Celine hype went calm. There indeed are people relate Jil to some version of Saville Row. But more I feel it's the Balenciaga/Calvin Klein/Jil Sander bunch that really made it great. Their business went down after it faded.
Margiela is able to pull that string, that's great for them. Jil is a different case. I'm not suggesting they should go with everyone else. But their aesthetic is their weakness at the current state of fashion.
It doesn't have to be a weakness. There are a number of dedicated minimalists who will never wear Alessandro's Gucci. Just think of the success of the SL tailored pieces that have zip to do with the runway or the advertising. There's no reason Jil Sander couldn't have a piece of that business. Look at Armani. There's no reason Jil Sander couldn't play in the same space. What they need is excellence, tailoring, and design--not hype. Hype may be working for some, but real women need real clothes, and those who live and die by hype are mostly not addressing that need in the least.

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16-03-2017
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But I remember being told the sales weren't doing particularly good when Jil went back and later on. Just kind of, meh.
+J on the other hand, had a tremendous success, I'm not really sure how to depict it right.
But I think the company always would like a Raf peak to happen again. For that to happen, it definitely requires the environment to work with at first. Not just be the authentic you, and then the firework willingly set itself up.

By the way, Showstudio did an Armani discussion at the end of their Milan round up this season. I'll be brutally honest, it's the boring wealth motif for people who are not really interested in fashion week, like, hey I live in the big mansion driving Maserati. Go away Britney. I mean, good to see you, bye.

Back to the point, Jil, to the majority, doesn't sound as powerful as Armani, ie. aunties "passing the good name" to their nieces; or Margiela, a cult of living style, with almost actual preachers "passing the good name" to their friends. Jil has a steady business, indeed. I'm just not sure if they can earn as much, after being not on topic for ever longer 4, or 5 years time.

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19-03-2017
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Originally Posted by perhydrol View Post
And Waight Keller would go to Céline, but it turned out that that's not true. Same with Clare at Burberry.
I work in the industry and no one ever mentioned CWK at Celine or Burberry...

Jacquemus going to Jil...


Last edited by Thefrenchy; 19-03-2017 at 01:06 PM.
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19-03-2017
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(Blacklist Jil Sander immediately)

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19-03-2017
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^^Jacquemus really?! No please. Sad times.

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19-03-2017
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Jacquemus? Why not! He has that innocence that could look fresh for Jil. It's so weird that it could work.
Jil needs a new energy and a new twist. He can give it to them...

Plus, his last few collections has proved that he is much more than a gimmick.

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23-03-2017
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I can't do with that much of infancy exploration. Plus his cut makes everyone looking slimy, basically a line of walking butter dough.

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23-03-2017
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I can definitely see Jacquemus at Jil Sander and I think it's definitely more fitting than Claire at Givenchy. I hope this is true because it's such a fantastic opportunity that would provide invaluable knowledge, especially since he's still a young designer.

He has the potential to do well and I'm personally very interested to see his menswear.

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23-03-2017
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Where is the source confirming Jacquemus? I've searched and haven't found anything about it.

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24-03-2017
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huh?? Didn't Jil Sander confirm Luke and Lucie Meier? I swear I read that a week ago

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