Designers Switching Houses ... Moving to New Brands - Page 23 - the Fashion Spot
 
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4 Weeks Ago
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thatsfierce's Avatar
 
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Didn't Koma leave Mugler... wow. Truly sad, same as Phoebe.

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Moncler has parted ways with Thom Browne, closing Gamme Rouge and Bleu.

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DvF in: Nathan Jenden

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^what was the point? Jeez...

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I know it's old news (and everybody knew it was going to happen) but ahhhh Philo out of Céline. How sad.

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Quote:
Guess what ❓ Designer Simone Porte Jacquemus (@jacquemus) talks about a #NewJob... It might be the creative direction of a big fashion house �� Any ideas?
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#MFFashion #MFFashioNews #Jacquemus #SimonePorteJacquemus #Fashion #CreativeDirector
Jacquemus to Celine?

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Kim Jones leaving LV.
https://www.businessoffashion.com/ar...-louis-vuitton

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Well, yikes if Jacquemus is indeed going to Celine.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed.. View Post
what a bummer, at least Jones made LV mens relevant again. And that street vibes that was mentioned in the article is "fresh", although mostly just gentrified street clothings, it created a position for LV in the tough mens market.

and again, i cant help but want to compare it to the boring but somehow never will go away Dior Homme"s KVA.

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Kim did a really wonderful job for Louis Vuitton. With him, the menswear became really an interesting and relevant thing for Vuitton.
He invented the menswear fashion at Vuitton for me.

2018 is going to be an interesting year for Vuitton. Kim is leaving, Nicolas's contract end this year....

I hope they are not going to give the menswear to Virgil Abloh. They need a strong voice, not a Raf Simons fan.

I still not get how KVA is still at Dior...Really!

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If there are talks that Kim is going to Burberry, is it possible that he does menswear and Phoebe does womenswear? I know I'd love to see that.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
I hope they are not going to give the menswear to Virgil Abloh. They need a strong voice, not a Raf Simons fan.
Please, not Abloh! I think Kim Jones indeed not only kept LV men's relevant but also interesting. His direction was strong enough to stand next to that of Marc and Nicolas. Hope he'll be continue doing menswear only, that's his strength.

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Glad Kim is leaving LV because his work was so boring, safe and outdated. There was such a disconnection between his work and Ghesquiere's modern/futuristic LV woman.

I hope to see someone exciting take the reins and push the menswear forward.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Glad Kim is leaving LV because his work was so boring, safe and outdated. There was such a disconnection between his work and Ghesquiere's modern/futuristic LV woman.

I hope to see someone exciting take the reins and push the menswear forward.
Really?
IMO if one thing, he finally made the menswear relevant to the womenswear. I think that Nicolas aesthetic allowed him to go for a less formal and more modern and street-oriented aesthetic.
He came at a time when Vuitton collections started to be more and more spectacular and precious.

And futurism is not really a word i would attached to Nicolas's Vuitton work. It's maybe a post-modern 70's/80's inspired vision of futurism adapted to our era but we are far from Balenciaga's SS 2007 collection.



I would love to see Phillip Lim doing Vuitton menswear! And as Galliano changed the team who did the menswear at Margiela, why not hiring the head designer for their menswear. Margiela menswear was good and it was a good mix of tailoring and casual clothes. Plus, the footwear was always perfect!


Last edited by Lola701; 3 Days Ago at 08:18 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola701 View Post
Really?
IMO if one thing, he finally made the menswear relevant to the womenswear. I think that Nicolas aesthetic allowed him to go for a less formal and more modern and street-oriented aesthetic.
He came at a time when Vuitton collections started to be more and more spectacular and precious.

And futurism is not really a word i would attached to Nicolas's Vuitton work. It's maybe a post-modern 70's/80's inspired vision of futurism adapted to our era but we are far from Balenciaga's SS 2007 collection.
Well I certainly disagree with that because I have personally never cared about any of his collections for LV besides maybe his last SS18 collection where there was finally some modernity. I know plenty of men who buy the bags, shoes and accessories but I know very few who actually buy the RTW.

His clothes are practical and safe but they don't excite me like Ghesquiere's collections. When I look at what he does and then I look at Kim's work I can't help but be disappointed. I think it's telling when they even use men in their campaigns to advertise the womenswear.

I also think futuristic is a fitting term to describe Nicolas's vision when you look at his runways, choice of textiles and make-up. Obviously I don't mean it in the literal sense that I always expect to see metal, glass, shine etc. but it's mainly the ideas and concepts that resonate.
Even by recontextualising the past with this whole notion of PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE, (which I love mind you) it still feels very modern and fresh to me. It's LV for the modern, trendy woman while Kim's vision to me felt like it was stuck in another time zone.

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