“I always wanted to live a man’s life in a woman’s body.” So went the sound bite of pre-fall at Diane von Furstenberg. To translate that to the look of the season, the designer summoned the spirit of Mick Jagger during his Marianne Faithfull years, and Oscar Wilde and the classic London dandies, working tweedy, narrow tailoring on shorts, skinny pants and vests and short jackets with leather details. Burgundy, camel and forest green infused the clothes with a rich, autumnal mood that looked sharp on color-blocked jackets.
For all the men’s wear influence, von Furstenberg is not one to ignore her feminine side, which she addressed with body-hugging sheaths with lace detailing, printed poet blouses and flared skirts done in a great stretch viscose. Accessories too were designed with a power-woman in mind, with touches of leopard, metallic and high heels with a graphic metal accent.
It's pure coincidence that the Rolling Stones are in town, but Diane von Furstenberg's pre-fall collection has what she calls a "Mick in his Marianne era" vibe. "I've always said I wanted to live a man's life in a woman's body," she continued. "This is all about London, the idea of a dandy." Masculine and feminine met in a tweed print dress inset with black lace, and the he-for-she thing continued on a plaid coat with shots of chartreuse as well as in the collection's graphic prints, which were all borrowed from men's ties. Biba got a name check when von Furstenberg was showing off a printed V-neck dress with parallel stripes of silver sequins down its front; another little frock with openwork detailing at the neckline was similarly bohemian in spirit. A woman can't wear the pants all the time.
Coats with color-blocked torsos and sleeves didn't so much harken back to Swinging London as they spoke to current trends. It didn't matter; they were one of the collection's major strengths.
Not loving this.....the whole collection is just eh. The lip closures on those clutches are pretty funny and while I don't really love them, they're the one thing that's remotely different/interesting about this collection.