Dior Homme S/S 09 Paris

[so_jealous]

I kinda agree with Tim Blanks as soon as I saw the pictures load up. Trying too hard. Bling skinnies, Kanye sunglasses, patent brights etc, etc...

No wonder Hedi was spotted in LA, I'd run far away too. Shaking his head all the way there.

[4n98]

Hedi has melted his aesthetics,ideal and spirit into his work for Dior Homme, It's revolutionary for men's wear. While Kris just don't have the feeling and sensitivity for what we want and like.
It's sad, for Hedi, KVA and DH.

[Beautiful Stranger]

i love the theme. very 'retards on space-camp'.

[gius]

maybe that collection of his was too severe and got bad reviews
this collection's a stark change from his last style
which i preferred more

anyway i do like the cutouts
and the one one-strap bag/backpack that looks like a shoe
i agree though, it looks kind of scenester in a more disposable one-season-wear thought

[helmut.newton]

I really like this collection in its own right.

But for Dior Homme it's a little confused. I don't see it as Parisian or Dior or anything. The casting makes me think of Brazil as does the sunglasses.

Good collection for fashion. Bad collection for Dior Homme.

[fouroclock]

I don't get the snarkiness of the comparisons to H&M. Didn't Hedi start the proto-hipster with the skinny jeans anyway? I do understand that this collections panders to a younger, less sophisticated audience, but in this collection the apple doesn't fall far from the tree (sorry for the rant, I need a smoke).

[gius]

i was looking at some old photos .. ^ maybe mid-50s ..early 60s.. and there were a lot of guys particularly in italy..with these slim-fitted pants and the straight skinny ties..
i'm pretty sure even the cut of a suit when it's slim, is called "italian cut" suit
the american suit makes the body appear larger..

[fouroclock]

Well he "brought it back," I think :S. Nonetheless, I remember reading that his inspiration was Bowie.

p.s. I'm quasi-sad that Assche didn't go the goth route suggested by his first collection in the label.

[borjacapella]

^^ a true RafSimons-aist will tell you Raf did it first... AND some seasons later, Slimane appeared at the helm of Dior and made it global.
it's arguable i guess...

(i totally think he should have continued the sharp line he started with the first presentation too.... and not this)

[kiddokiddo]

Horribly dated and a poor attempt... I was interested in his first presentation and hoping for a good change at DH, but this is just a bad move..so far he proves to be incapable of relating to neither the old DH fans nor the new possible clientele

[L.A.Trash]

Originally Posted by valerique

What is so horrible about this collection? I have a feeling that no matter what he showed, people would still hate it; they hated before even seeing his first collection for DH.

As for bringing Hedi back, I hope it doesn't happen.

To a certain extent I believe this was true when Chris first replaced Hedi, there was such an initial backlash that the reaction to his first collection was almost bound to be negative (unless he had truly shown something innovative)...and indeed I have already made it clear how I felt about THAT collection:

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums...&postcount=128

This far into his career at Dior however I don't think people would hate it for the sake of hating it, I think the majority of Dior Homme fans/consumers really WANT Van Assche to take Dior in a fresh direction and would embrace it if he did. I certainly don't want Dior Homme to go down the toilet but it looks like it is going that way.

From what I have seen of this collection which is admittedly brief (I couldn't be bothered to keep looking) there are two major problems. One being that every single influence/inspiration/trend Chris has used has already filtered down into the mainstream to such an extent that they are already being worn by the majority of remotely fashion conscious consumers (skinny fit, metalics, monocrome etc etc). His inspiration is not fresh and his execution is not innovative..one might be excused if the other was there but as it stands I feel like I have seen this collection many times before (in the late 90s and early 00s!).

Secondly, Chris is not skilled in EDITING a collection..he needs to take a page out of Marc Jacobs book...while Marc may have a million divergent influences and inspirations for a show..he EDITS, EDITS and REEDITS until he has narrowed each influence down to its essential elements and then he weaves them expertly into a show.

Chris' collections are overcomplicated (yes, something that at first appears minimal can be overcomplicated) and end up looking like a mish mash that has spewed straight out of his imagination with no editing...thus they have no consistency and they do not tell a story.

I honestly can't be bothered to list the number of problems with this collection..it just looks like a compilation of seasons old D&G, Raf Simons (good spot whoever said that first!), American Apparel etc etc etc.

It doesn't feel like Van Assche
It doesn't feel like Dior
It doesn't feel fresh
It doesn't feel like anything

Such a terrible disappointment. Someone needs to replace Chris (and not necessarily Hedi) because without some fresh blood I fear Dior Homme is officially dead.

[KilltheLook]

Apparently a lot of Kanye West's fans praised this collection (maybe because Kanye featured KVA in his blog) and most of the stuff they said were "shoes are dope", "jacket are so cool" and so on...but they failed to realise that these stuff have been done before (and in a better way) by other designers (pointed out by other members)...So sad that nowadays some people praise a designer simply because their idols mention him/her.
About this collection, totally agree with L.A.Trash, KVA had killed Dior Homme in the most brutal way ever...

[RuxBerry]

hmm..I think that this collection is not a totally disaster...if we compare with the Femme collection....
I think that it "failed" because the wish of suprising us was too much bigger. Dior was always at the limits between kitch and refinement....Yes, now it is more near kitch...but, maybe we are the "culprits". We wanted a change....
Even if it is not a brilliant collection but a comercial one, some looks are good...and it is a new Dior homme, we should encourage it..maybe in future it'll be greater...

[Donatello89]

the theme is good...but something's missing. I dunno what it is, but the "dior touch' is not here. the glasses' concept is good !

[Rhizm]

Originally Posted by mix_NS

I think you all people overreact...

He did finish Antwerpen! And Belgium desing is bit different

p.s. yes, Hedi did a great job but it got boring, so I wouldn't like him getting back ...

I am Belgian but I wouldn't wear this. Although you are right that some Belgian designers have a certain "je ne sais quoi" that gives them a recogniseable style. But Bruno Pieters for Boss, Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci or Raf Simons for Jill Sander... they are also Belgian and that seems to work. Van Assche simply doesn't fit Dior Homme