ok people the collection isn't as bad as you all think
look at it with a couture eye and you can pick out bits which are wearable.
the baggy pants, fitted jackets etc.
its terribly styled and the aesthetic isn't as strong as i would have hoped from Dior homme but none the less, its wear able, just not how it looks off the run way
very annoyed ....
First, if I remember correctly before Hedi Slimane the menswear at Dior was named Christian Dior Monsieur (or something) so Dior Homme is all pretty new ....
Then again, HS is great, genius etc. ....
Though, as I always said he brought fresh air in the menswear at this moment .... I think the one we need to applaude is Bernard Arnaud who, at this moment, trust young people and placed them art directors of fashion labels ...
I mean, I'm not sure there were a lot of young art directors at this moment doing menswear (right ?)
But now that Hedi's left Dior Homme, this is something new .... Hedi was just an art director (a great one according to most of you) .... kris, who's art director too for DH, have a different status in this story ... I mean he has his own label therefore is, besides DH, a 'real' designer (who appeals or not to you) ......
But I think you guys got all wrong with saying that Kris doesn't fit DH .... because DH do not exist ... it's just an image .... like LV is ....
and maybe Kris doesn't fit DH .... but imo it's not because of his aesthetics because DH is empty and is just a name to feed
Kris in fashion history, at the DH Art Direction, will remain the "bouche trou" like this bf after you broke up of a long relationship ....
that's sad ...
(i'm not sure i got all my words coherent ...)
I have many times said that Kris doesnt fit DH and as much as i understand what you mean with "Dior homme doesnt exist" because it is a very recent label et al, i think that the problem with Kris' vision has little to do with it's relevance to what hedi had done before. It's a matter of consistency.
KVA has been unable to deliver a stable message of what he wants Dior to be.
His first collection was a huge shock for me. I wasnt ready for such a changement as i expected him to follow Hedi's path. With time, i realized that doing-Hedi would have been a huge mistake.
Ready for another lesson of constrained elegance and perfect-cut jackets, i awaited his second collection. The almost-leggins with those terrible jackets. The colours, the textures, it all seemed off. For me, the message behind that collection was a "never mind the first one... i'll just try to copy hedi and see what we get!" (a very valentino-alessandra-and-the-two-from-the-accessories-department kind of thing, no?)
Then it was the turn of spring summer again. I didn't know if we were going to find something like the first or second show. To tell you the truth i had little hope... and then he delivered.
No matter if Dior Homme doesnt really have an heritage and doesnt yet "stand for something"... it sure doesnt stand for that bikkembergs meets dsquared bullshhhh he showed.
After 3 seasons, it seamed to me that there was no way back and that's when I started to state that KVA is not a good suit for Dior Homme.
I am not saying Hedi should come back. He had his moment, and now it is gone (just like Tom had his Gucci moment, but that era is also gone for good).
What I am trying to figure out is how one of the biggest houses in the LVMH group can afford to have such a bland artistic direction. How can a brand make such a strong growth in hardly 10 years and become a standard of lifestyle, and then all of a sudden it's all gone.
When i thought of the Dior homme, i knew how he looked, what he was wearing, how he would smell, what kidn of music he likes... a perfectly defined target
To me DH had a reason to be. There was a spot in the market to be covered and hedi's team did it so well... clothes, luggage, beauty products... i don't think i could name another brand that is able to sell about anything from chairs to razors with a bit of credibility like they did.
I applaud Arnaud for trusting young talents, he sure knows how to spot them, but the transition chez Dior has been complicated.
On one side, Van Asche can't seem to handle 2 labels at a time. the kva line keeps looking good, but he seems unable to decide what to do with dior.
On the other side, some Slimane elements are still around. The accessories he created, the bags, the shoes, the jeans, the accessories... if they really want people to forget slimane, maybe they should have rebuilt it entirely. redoing the menswear, not to mention in the way they've done it, is clearly not enough.
To top it all, Dior as a whole brand is trying to change their logo-whole image rebuilding a more sophisticated, luxurious, refined, blah,blah,blah house that pays tribute to monsieur Chritian Dior.
With all of the above said, i guess it will seem understandable that at least i say that kva doesnt seem a good fit for DH :p, again... it was never a matter of aesthetic, or references to hedi... the key word is consistency
|09, dior, homme, paris, s or s|