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24-04-2005
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Dirk Schönberger, F/W 2004, Womens


Images from www.dirkschoenberger.com

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nothing that made me feel that great but thanks for posting

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Some S/S 2004 Photos






Last edited by cerfas; 24-04-2005 at 04:41 PM.
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24-04-2005
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Article from http://www.goethe.de/kug/kue/des/thm/en113055.htm

Quote:
Fashion Designer Dirk Schönberger – Part of the Young Establishment*


Dirk Schönberger is a fashion designer who is seen as being part of the "young establishment". He also avows that he is a German fashion designer, even though his fashion studio is in Antwerp and he shows his designs at the Paris Prêt-à-Porter.

Dirk Schönberger, who was born in Cologne in1967, studied at the Esmod Fashion School in Munich. He then worked in Antwerp as an assistant to the Belgian designer, Dirk Bikkembergs, just as he had planned from the start. In 1996, Schönberger set up shop on his own; a step he had envisaged would be easier. Nevertheless, he still believes that Belgium offers better conditions for setting up a fashion company than Germany. Textile manufacturers there are used to producing items in small quantities, whereas in Germany, it is large quantities that count. Generally, it is taken for granted more that talent should be promoted, quite apart from the fact that "a prophet is not without honour, save in his own country". Moreover, the Paris Prêt-à-Porter offers better opportunities to gain an international reputation.

There was an element of narcissism behind his decision to become a fashion designer in the first place, he admits. "I wanted to design a suit with new contours for my age group." That is how Schönberger started out in men’s fashions.

Men’s fashions with a certain je ne sais quois
Schönberger has developed a style of his own, influenced by Antwerp fashion designers who became famous for grunge and recycling fashion in the early nineties, and by Rei Kawakubo’s and Yohji Yamamoto’s Japanese understanding of fashion. The result is not fashion in the traditional sense. "Casual" accents and "trash" elements lend this fashion-maker’s suits, which usually have a traditional cut, a certain je ne sais quois. A shawl collar made of glossy satin gives an ordinary suit a touch of individuality. He has reinvented the waistcoat, with the front part consisting of two crossed-over lengths of fabric that have something of a shawl about them. His pattern and fabric combinations are unconventional. He uses different check patterns on the trousers and the jacket, or combines different materials, such as shiny leather or satin and rough wool in one suit. Along with his preferred colours grey, black and khaki, Schönberger used light dabs of colour in dull red and pink for the first time in his reinforced variations 2003/04 winter collection. That is quite jazzy for him, he says. The colours of his shirts and sweaters are always subdued and coordinated with the suit. He became famous for his "banana pants", featuring stitched creases which look neat without needing to be ironed.

Variations of details
In Schönberger’s women’s collection, which he added in 2001, the diversity of details is even more apparent than in his men’s collection. Pleats are held together by fabric clips, and piping, smocking and finely frayed edges add up to make a modern statement. Narrow flounces versus sporty, mounted pockets, low cuts versus draping shawls – Schönberger’s creations express both femininity and masculinity at the same time. He sees no contradiction between emancipation and eroticism, and his fashion aims to bring out both. While his women’s fashion was initially inspired by the contours of his men’s fashion, it has increasingly taken on a life of its own, without losing sight of the men’s fashion on which it was modelled. It reflects the Japanese prototype, without looking like an imitation.

Meanwhile, Schönberger shows four collections a year. Europe, Asia and America each make up a third of his sales market. However, his biggest presence is in Japan, where he has a total of 17 shops. Eleven fashion stores in the USA and six in Germany (of which two are in his home city of Cologne) stock Dirk Schönberger garments.

Fashion with political undertones
Dirk Schönberger himself is quiet, calm and apparently unimpressed by the glamour and media fuss, although, as he admits, he was not very conformist at school and college. His family is well-heeled – his father is a lawyer. Schönberger is not only interested in art and music, but also politics, and he also uses fashion as a vehicle to air his political views. In reaction to the Iraq war, he presented a parka at a fashion show in Barcelona printed with the words "War is over! If you want it", the slogan of a famous poster campaign by John Lennon and Yoko Ono in 1969. He was given a standing ovation for it, while the Spanish Minister of Culture was booed out for the country’s pro-American stance.

Schönberger sees fashion as something that should be wearable, but not boring, and above all, as an expression of one’s individuality. Driven by restlessness and constantly endeavouring to reposition himself and his fashion, he may outgrow Antwerp. The fashion designer thinks Berlin is a city that may suit him.

Photo Gallery Collection Dirk Schönberger

Dr Ingrid Loschek
is Professor of Fashion History and Fashion Theory at
Pforzheim University of Design and has written a number of specialist books on fashion
http:www.loschek.de
Translation: Eileen Flügel
Copyright: Goethe-Institut, Online-Redaktion

Any questions about this article? Please write!
online-redaktion@inter-nationes.de
April 2004

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24-04-2005
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You're welcome, cigarette. I don't always post my favorite stuff, but for me when thinking about fashion, it's important to see as many images as possible, the good, the interesting, the terrible...you can always learn something.

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24-04-2005
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V.I.P.
 
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So strong, so gorgeous! I really hope with the new investment Dirk can put away his production woes and get back on track!

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