Dolce & Gabbana S/S 09 Milan - Page 14 - the Fashion Spot
 
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26-09-2008
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It definitely feels like Vuitton SS08

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26-09-2008
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"...Dolce needs to do "sexy", because that's what they're good at..."
To tell the truth, I have never seen Dolce&Gabbana as anything else but a company that makes money selling awfully tarty clothing for "kept" women, botoxed housewives of the rich business men etc. I find it interesting, reading this thread, that it seems mostly the men in this forum are crying out for the "sexy" D&G woman to come back... As a woman, I have to say I see no appeal in "being the D&G woman".

What exactly is Dolce&Gabbana's contribution to fashion as an art/craft form? Is there any? I have been wondering this for a long time. The only thing I see that makes them matter is their sales numbers and pornographic advertising campaigns. Is that so remarkable?

If all Dolce&Gabbana can do is that "sexy" we are talking of here, what is the relevance of Dolce&Gabbana? I wish that rather than sticking to that they would just stop designing. I see no particular use for their kind of "sexy" ... and if they can't do anything else well either, what's the point?

I am sorry if I sound offensive to some, that is not what I mean here. I am just giving my two cents...

That said, I do like some of the bags, belts, jewellery and headpieces. As someone said, they are very Lacroix indeed, but that doesn't bother me at all. The clothes on the other hand... maybe some skirts would work if separated from the rest, but mostly the clothes look awful. The final evening gowns are especially hideous (they look like bunches of cheap artificial fabric with plastic flowers glued over them), as are the platform shoes. If this is indeed supposed to be inspired by Japan, I guess the very first looks are supposed to reference to kimonos. Yet all I see is cheap hotel dressing gowns and pyjamas. The pieces with exaggerated shoulders or bubble-shaped skirts look plain ridiculous and like there hasn't been any thought given to making them. They look strangely one-dimensional.

A bad collection from an overrated duo, with some nice accessories sprinkled over it.

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26-09-2008
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The thing is, Dolce and Gabbana didn't always do pornographic sexy. They used to mix romance, baroque extravagance, mannish tailoring and sex to make what was ultimately their signature. It was a combination of very naive, coquettish boudoir femininity with harder more aggressive sex club type stuff that made them so appealing in the first place, like when they handpainted flowers onto rubber and vinyl dresses and covered them with tulle.

It's only recently that they've gone to an extreme. That said, I don't find anything wrong with their brand of sexy, it's one of many types. Not everyone can be subversively sexual like Prada, androgynously sexual like Saint Laurent, darkly sexual like Gucci used to be, or completely asexual like Jil Sander used to be.....women should have options in how to represent themselves, and I don't think one option is more "right" than any other.

I think people are saying they should stick to doing sexy because that's what they do well. All of this experimental stuff just isn't as honest, and when you know what a designer's strengths are, like cutting a flattering, structured corset dress, you don't want to see them squandering their skills on stuff that they don't do particularly well. I mean, would anyone want to see a label like Marni do something slick, tight and urban looking? It wouldn't come off as genuine if Consuelo did that.

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26-09-2008
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^ i agree with you

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26-09-2008
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Seems like I need to research them more... could you suggest any particular period (season-wise) to look up to see what they were when they were great?

I do agree with that women should have many options - I just found it interesting that it seemed to be men talking of the D&G woman without considering if women want "her" back. I mean, sure you can long after that old "sexy", but if women don't share that view, it is not D&G's fault they are not doing that style anymore but moving to something that women seem to want better.

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26-09-2008
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Pyjamas and unflattering, strange-a$s jackets.


Last edited by Navygreen; 26-09-2008 at 05:58 AM.
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26-09-2008
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Such a relief they didn't continue the theme of the D&G collection into this.
This was definitely a nice surprise though it doesn't read Dolce & Gabbana to me....at all
But, very nice and very lux.

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This is so much better than the D&G collection. For me though, D&G (and therefore Dolce & Gabbana) has been utterly ruined by beeing a logo-brand. I do like some of their pieces (both D&G and Dolce for that matter), but I can't get past the fact that they splash their logo on everything (this refers, of course to D&G). This is somewhat irrelevant to this collection, but also applies because the way they use their logo-overdose on their lower line makes me negatively biased towards their main line.

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26-09-2008
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Approx. 75% of this collection is just horrible First of all it's meant to be Spr/Sum and virtually everything is so dour IMO.
I'm sure even old hags would turn half of this down was it offered to them.
For the last few seasons these guys have totally lost it.

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26-09-2008
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I like what sethii said about it being classic Dolce & Gabbana.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by NellOfDruryLane View Post
Seems like I need to research them more... could you suggest any particular period (season-wise) to look up to see what they were when they were great?

I do agree with that women should have many options - I just found it interesting that it seemed to be men talking of the D&G woman without considering if women want "her" back. I mean, sure you can long after that old "sexy", but if women don't share that view, it is not D&G's fault they are not doing that style anymore but moving to something that women seem to want better.
try googling their collection from the 90's.

they did have a more subdued collection at last spring season with the organza dresses. i think that's what they were original doing when they first came out.

but to tell you the truth.... people, in general, would wear anything dolce&gabbana because of the name. i mean, you see people like fergie and other celebrities vomiting out the name of the brand to make them seem "fashionable".

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Quote:
Originally Posted by NellOfDruryLane View Post
Seems like I need to research them more... could you suggest any particular period (season-wise) to look up to see what they were when they were great?

I do agree with that women should have many options - I just found it interesting that it seemed to be men talking of the D&G woman without considering if women want "her" back. I mean, sure you can long after that old "sexy", but if women don't share that view, it is not D&G's fault they are not doing that style anymore but moving to something that women seem to want better.
I'd say looks for their collections from about 1996 - 2002. Style.com has shows dating back to 2002 and firstview.com has shows dating back to 1996 (unfortunately they're not free to look at)

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There are several videos from Dolce and Gabbana's late 90s collections in this channel.

It still looks about the same to me, maybe worse, but that's just because models did tend to walk like strippers and not penguins like these days.

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26-09-2008
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NellOfDruryLane i feel like evaluating Dolce&Gabbana in terms of what they've done for fashion, craft, art and all of that would be overlooking the fact that fashion is a big industry (a hard-to-get-in easy-to-get-out one btw) and not all creators should try to be "evaluated" by the same standards.
the social context in which the so called dolce and gabbana woman appears is crucial for understanding why this brand neednt be so important in terms of creative innovation. when you picture this woman wanting to lets say show herself off or whatever her will is and how that could be considered in terms of moral in a country like italy, the fact that these two designers (that by then were probably not much more than good at fresh/modern/daring styling) made it so big in the market it very remarkable.
more and more, i try to think of everyone's collections as if i was to chose some key looks that i'd select for a biographic book of them. and the more i do that, the more i get the feeling that collections like this one just wouldnt make it to the pages of a book that should illustrate what dolce&gabbana is about. maybe in 30 years, if i tried to explain my children what DG is, whould i show them this? is this la grande epoque de dolce and gabbana?
i understand designers get many different influences during their careers, and they have ups and downs and that some of them just can't constantly show stuff that everyone will like. what "scares" me most about this sort of radical changes is that if they ever decide to go back to their classics, it might be too late... as nobody will eventually know what they really are.



i think every designer should be very careful when taking a step forward making sure that by doing that he is not erasing the ones he already took.

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28-09-2008
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Thank you Mulletproof and Spike for tips! I did take a look, and it was what I had already seen of Dolce&Gabbana and had made me form that opinion of mine... so no, I still don't really see their value as designers.

Borjacapella, I have to say I do not get your point... could you elaborate a bit more? Because personally, I don't see that someone should be praised for being able to sell loads of clothing. If your point is that that D&G are great because they have brilliantly managed to market themselves, then why not raise H&M to the group? They have managed to brilliantly sell clothing, but are they that relevant in discussing fashion from the point of designing? So should they be praised as designers or as excellent business men?

Of course fashion is an industry these days. But I don't follow it because I would like to see how much money someone makes. I don't think that is the purpose of fashion, and I dare say if we were into fashion because of how much it sells, we would not be spending our time in this forum but reading the moment's stock exchange (not saying none of us do that!).

I do find your approach to collections interesting, though. I don't know whether I agree with it, but I find it very very interesting... definetily something I would love to hear more about!

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