Dolce & Gabbana S/S 09 Milan - Page 9 - the Fashion Spot
 
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25-09-2008
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Echoing a lot of what has already been said, I too am disappointed with Dolce, and I have been for the past few seasons. They're simply trying to hard make their collections fit in with the Lanvins or Balenciagas or YSLs for editorial space. And when they do that, it all looks very Marchesa.

And that's not neccessarily a bad thing, because neither Dolce & Gabbana nor Marchesa makes unattractive clothes. But where's the continuity? I can't see the yacht partying heiress wearing much of this, can you? If Dolce is really just relegating the sexy clothes to boutiques only, where is the honesty? Shouldn't the clothes that are actually going to sell be the ones shown to the public?

If anyone thinks I'm being a hypocritical about all this, I'll admit it partially. Italian collections are always either too trampy, or in the case of D&G and Cavalli in recent seasons, not trampy enough. But there IS a happy medium for me! (See this season's Dsquared!) Labels like Dolce, Cavalli, Versace, and Dsquared aren't necessarily my taste, but they do have an important place in the market. (And not just for the tacky, I think that the right sexy, figure-hugging dress can look pretty sophisticated in a lot of context.)

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I must say, i disagree myself. At the beginning i only liked the dresses at the end but now the collection is growing with me every minute.
This is really creative and special collection.

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Perforation and geometry
As the dramas unfold with each news bulletin, the international fashion season is looking like a metaphor for the state of the world: models on super-high heels tumbling in tandem with the markets; perforated materials to signal holes in the economy; some designers carrying on blithely as if nothing is happening; others trying to build a new geometry in aging edifices.

The result is increasingly surreal - and never more so than at Dolce & Gabbana's show Thursday, which had jacket sleeves in flapping circles and skirts with angular panels mixed in with pajamas, as if a gifted child was doing math in bed.

"We call it Pajama Baroque. It's a mad collection done for fun to give people a smile," Stefano Gabbana said before the show, while Domenico Dolce worked on complex coiffures with couture decoration.

By the time the show ended with crinolines of metal mesh embellished with flowers (a soft satin pajama top above the bell skirt) the audience was both incredulous and mesmerized.

It all seemed so archetypal of fashion today - the sinuous and exceptional tailoring of Dolce & Gabbana strategically hidden; pieces mixed up in manic confusion; jewels at necks and waists, bold and bling, yet beautiful and spiritual with their baroque religious elements.

And there was the obligatory parade of celebrities - literally, in this case, as Jennifer Lopez in a form-fitting dress, Dita Von Teese in a feather-print puffy dress, Claudia Schiffer in snow white and Eva Herzigova in black lace - walked the runway.

In its manic way this Dolce & Gabbana show seemed to catch the spirit of the moment, even if pajamas, with their soft silken surfaces and romper pants are yesterday's trend. The contrast with the baroque brocades, like the difference between the chic hair and hefty shoes, left the audience - or the customer - to cherry pick.

And taken out of context, there were as many fine pieces as interesting new proportions. As a fashion moment, it seemed like a fantastical finale before an unknown future.

Since transparency (of the financial kind) is now de rigeur, is it surprising that peep holes, perforations and open work are a powerful part of the summer 2008 season.

suzy menkes/ iht.com

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