How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
29-02-2012
  46
backstage pass
 
Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: london
Gender: homme
Posts: 514
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uemarasan View Post
It's already been mentioned above. Aside from being correctly informed about his methods, you have to have a particularly solid understanding of how print actually works in the context of designing and cutting clothes to be able to effectively "read" Dries's work. Also, some knowledge of the principles of graphic design helps. No one here can tell you, you have to do the research on your own. Thanks.
I've no difficulty understanding those aspects. I was rather hoping that a knowledgable 'fan' might give not only myself, but anyone else not yet converted to the cause, a couple of lines worth of assistance toward appreciation. But if you want to keep elite stum and behind a cloak of mystification, rather than an effective advocate for DVN, a democrat, a spreader of the gospel - that's of course your prerogative. Just that with a will to mystify I sometimes suspect either not even a fake wizard behind the curtain or that it's a case of Emporer's New Clothes.

  Reply With Quote
 
29-02-2012
  47
tfs star
 
Ives927's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,742
As I mentioned before, Dries is a very underrated designer and I love him for it. All that matters is that his customers understand him and that is the reason why he is as successful as he is. There is no need to defend Dries' aesthetic to those that understand it.

I would suggest those that want to know more about Dries to look at his collections from the 80s and 90s.


Last edited by Ives927; 29-02-2012 at 04:19 PM.
  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  48
V.I.P.
 
Psylocke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Gender: femme
Posts: 10,906
I'm not really feeling this. This is probably much closer to the classic folklore-style Dries than last season but I just loved the S/S '12 collection so much, I almost expected something very slick and kind of futuristic for this season, too. Anyways, the main thing that bothers me is that the Asia prints and references are too literal. So many designers are doing the China theme this year (obviously) so if a genius like Dries jumps on the bandwagon you'd expect him to do something more quirky and smart with it.
Also, the aqua blue fur shrug kind of confuses me, haha.
The color palette is absolutely stunning, though. And the coats are gorgeous as always, of course

  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  49
V.I.P.
 
JuiceMajor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sushi Bar
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,502
His collection always look even better on the street and this one is no exception! I would like to be in his position. Like Paul Smith!

__________________
Low Price For Bad Things Is Not Cheapness
http://teknd.blogspot.co.uk/
  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  50
front row
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentacl Ventricl View Post
I've no difficulty understanding those aspects. I was rather hoping that a knowledgable 'fan' might give not only myself, but anyone else not yet converted to the cause, a couple of lines worth of assistance toward appreciation. But if you want to keep elite stum and behind a cloak of mystification, rather than an effective advocate for DVN, a democrat, a spreader of the gospel - that's of course your prerogative. Just that with a will to mystify I sometimes suspect either not even a fake wizard behind the curtain or that it's a case of Emporer's New Clothes.
Then you should already know that prints follow certain lines in pattern-making, that wherever the cloth is cut, darted, sewn there should be a corresponding segue of print, that segue of print is not significant in East Asian design because there are no use for darts, that uneven repetition is undesirable not only in graphic design but in East Asian fabric design, that the balance of negative and positive space is different in Western and East Asian contexts, that the heaviness of embroidery and print in kimono tends to be concentrated towards the bottom of the garment, that Dries is, again, juxtaposing these concepts against Western shapes, silhouettes, and aesthetics. Prints of clothes wherein print is of essense on clothes wherein cut is of essence. The social signifiers of East Asian design (dragons, cranes, phoenixes, crests, colors) flattened against the idealized democracy of Western clothing, the latter an important value in particular to Dries. No elite stum or cloak of mystification here (which I find deeply ironic when it was mentioned above). Simply impatience with the rhetoric.


Last edited by Uemarasan; 29-02-2012 at 05:00 PM.
  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  51
backstage pass
 
Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: london
Gender: homme
Posts: 514
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uemarasan View Post
Then you should already know that prints follow certain lines in pattern-making, that wherever the cloth is cut, darted, sewn there should be a corresponding segue of print, that segue of print is not significant in East Asian design because there are no use for darts, that uneven repetition is undesirable not only in graphic design but in East Asian fabric design, that the balance of negative and positive space is different in Western and East Asian contexts, that the heaviness of embroidery and print in kimono tends to be concentrated towards the bottom of the garment, that Dries is, again, juxtaposing these concepts against Western shapes, silhouettes, and aesthetics. Prints of clothes wherein print is of essense on clothes wherein cut is of essence. The social signifiers of East Asian design (dragons, cranes, phoenixes, crests, colors) flattened against the idealized democracy of Western clothing, the latter an important value in particular to Dries. No elite stum or cloak of mystification here (which I find deeply ironic when it was mentioned above). Simply impatience with the rhetoric.
I didn't know all of that so Thank You very much Uemarasan. Just the sort of exposition I was hoping for. You've piqued my interest. I follow a little of the difference of history of art/ graphic design structures from Kress and Van Leuwen's Reading Images: The Grammar of Visual Design I think I recall it's title being.

Below is the report of whom I take to be the premier fashion writing talent of the moment - Show Studio's Alex Fury. Though I find your thoughts more enlightening so thanks. Not quite sure why the battle but anyway.

There's always a sense of otherness in Dries Van Noten's work. It's rarely about another time, as Van Noten's clothes are rooted in the here-and-now (or, in the case of fashion's stilted life-cycle, the here-and-about-to-be), but it's often about transporting us away. For Autumn/Winter 2012 there was actually a little of both, that transportation taking us east, to Qing dynasty China to be precise.

Precise is maybe the wrong term, for these garments were miles away from flat facsimiles of Imperial China. Van Noten synthesised the different elements, combining print and embroidery, lavish fur and intricate texture, but avoided costume. The shapes throughout were simple - in the clean, uncomplicated to wear sense rather than lacking work, for these were supremely elegant clothes whose simplicity belied extreme effort. Van Noten folded print across pleated skirts and chopstick-slender suit jackets, sometimes abstracting them by placing a flat plane of elaborate oriental pattern at an angle to cut through the precise tailoring, other times engineering the print flawlessly to the body. One jacket had sleeves scrolled with Japanese-style woodcuts like painstaking tattoos, the closer turned to reveal a back banded in black, white a jade green like an ancient samurai warrior.

Van Noten's vision of Asia was somewhat distorted: in his mind, China and Japan blurred into one, figures from Japanese art jostling against robe embroideries in brilliant red, orange and Imperial Yellow, or the gold bullion crane embroideries that wound their way across otherwise utilitarian flak jackets. Maybe these were a nod to China's Mao past - if so, they were a bit glib, but as modern sports-luxe they looked fantastic.

It wasn't the actuality of the Far East Van Noten was seeking to capture, its high culture, ancient traditions and formalities, but more the essence of rich texture and vivid colour. Call it Chinese Whispers, if you must - and as with any game, the whispers became distorted as they passed down the line, until we ended up with Dries' translation of all that Chinese pomp and circumstance. That is, colourful, exuberant and eminently wearable clothes that women everywhere will hanker after.

Report by Alex Fury 3 minutes ago


Last edited by Tentacl Ventricl; 29-02-2012 at 05:20 PM.
  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  52
backstage pass
 
birdofparadise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 845
The video is up on his website. I'm really touched by the fact that one can hear the girls' footsteps, it really opens it up, make it easy to relate to. I think any designer successfully dealing with print in an age when we have the surefooted and seemingly overnight mastery of Mary Katrantzou needs to be commended.

__________________
"Menswear is so limited so I'm free with my ideas. Otherwise I'd die of boredom."--Miuccia Prada
  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  53
front row
 
thisismyname's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: USA
Gender: femme
Posts: 244
What a gorgeous collection. I am definitely going to account for a couple of pieces in my budget for fall... I am literally swooning, salivating about which pieces I could incorporate into my office attire.

  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  54
backstage pass
 
Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: london
Gender: homme
Posts: 514
So, in this juxtaposing of the east in the prints with western forms, like the workwear/formal - tailoring, dresses - Dries has a similar proposition this season to that at Prada. With Dries China/Japan prints from heritagewear, with Prada a sort of India/60's/70's/pyschedeila pj print. But both written onto forms including tropes of Western tailoring. Is it permissible to draw a Prada parallel in the Church of Dries Van Noten.

  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  55
backstage pass
 
birdofparadise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 845
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentacl Ventricl View Post
So, in this juxtaposing of the east in the prints with western forms, like the workwear/formal - tailoring, dresses - Dries has a similar proposition this season to that at Prada. With Dries China/Japan prints from heritagewear, with Prada a sort of India/60's/70's/pyschedeila pj print. But both written onto forms including tropes of Western tailoring. Is it permissible to draw a Prada parallel in the Church of Dries Van Noten.
That's interesting, I thought I saw a lot of India at Prada as well, with the layering, embellishment and a sort of 'repurposing' of formal, slightly regimental elements.

Dries seems to always find that 'hippie luxe' vein, though I like how he's used embroidery almost as a yoke in one or two pieces, using the work to strengthen that part of the garment, surely affecting how it will lay on the body, as well as add something ornamental.

__________________
"Menswear is so limited so I'm free with my ideas. Otherwise I'd die of boredom."--Miuccia Prada
  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  56
front row
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Texas
Gender: homme
Posts: 270
wow...its all so beautiful...I keep looking at the pictures of the collection over and over again...

  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  57
V.I.P.
 
Pradable's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Colombia
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,957

__________________
'I am so fab, check out I'm blonde, I'm skinny, I'm rich and I'm a little bit of a bitch'
  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  58
old-fashioned
 
*ana*'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Gender: femme
Posts: 6,168
One of my most awaited moments of Paris fashion week! Dries is not only a master in prints but he also does wonders mixing shapes and textures with both light and heavy fabrics. The outerwear is really great. I absolutely love the military green and brownish tones he used to complement the prints. The makeup and hair are beautiful too.

__________________
catchin' colds and missin' trains

Last edited by *ana*; 29-02-2012 at 07:17 PM.
  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  59
V.I.P.
 
Pradable's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Colombia
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,957

__________________
'I am so fab, check out I'm blonde, I'm skinny, I'm rich and I'm a little bit of a bitch'
  Reply With Quote
29-02-2012
  60
tfs star
 
Ives927's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,742
Wow, I absolutely love hearing the footsteps. It feels so intimate. Beautiful soundtrack, too.

  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
1213, dries, f or w, noten, paris, van
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:15 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.