Usually a Dries fan, I find myself disappointed in this collection. It's lazy (I've already seen that awful yellow parka and he did the same navy jackets with a white collar in his FW11 collection), and nothing wows me. The only pieces that are relatively good are the ones that combine linen(?) and leather.
one can never pin dries van noten into a corner. i love how fearlessly he jumps from inspiration point to inspiration point without ever losing his signature. while this collection reminds me of some of the wittier offerings of some of new york fashion week's wunderkinds, it's interesting to watch dries' concessions to the modern age like the slim leg under the shorts, the sportier elements, and the nonchalance with which the more formal pieces get mixed with the less formal.
everything is never quite enough.
It's very subdued compared to last Spring's collection, but it is also mirrors their Fall collection in a lot of ways which is lovely.
While not as instantly gratifying as the Fall collection, there's a lot of good in this collection after you let it ruminate for awhile. I love those beautiful knit sweaters and, as is the case with any Dries collection, I am swooning over the cuts of the coats and blazers. There's about a million different textures interspersed throughout this collection which I find very inspiring, especially fond of the feel of this suit: