Editors Threaten to Skip Milan Shows Next September

[kimair]

Show Calendar Battle Goes On
A threatened shake-up of the fashion show calendar is raising tensions on both sides of the Atlantic. It’s a potential clash that, if not resolved, could wreak havoc on the already lengthy, jam-packed runway season.

As reported, Italian designers are displeased with the plan of New York officials to start that city’s fashion week on Sept. 13 next year in order to avoid conflict with the Labor Day holiday in the U.S. The shift would put the shows essentially a week later than in recent years. The Italians contend the move is being forced on them by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and if Milan moves its dates later as a result, Italian designers won’t have enough time to satisfy production needs.

The Italians are regrouping to decide on their own dates.

The latest broadside in the calendar battle came from Condé Nast, which may go as far as skipping the Milan shows if its September dates next year conflict with New York or London. In a letter obtained by WWD and addressed to Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, Condé Nast International chairman Jonathan Newhouse wrote that Vogue editors “like the schedule the way it is presently organized. We at Condé Nast do not want the schedule to be changed. We very much oppose moving the Milan shows earlier so that they overlap or conflict with the London fashion shows — or with the New York fashion shows or those of any market.”

Newhouse wrote that the editors of Vogue, including those of the American, Italian and French editions, will not attend the Milan shows if there is a conflict with New York or London. “They will not under any circumstances abandon the London or New York shows if the Milan shows are moved earlier,” he stated, voicing his belief that, “the best way to avoid having a problem is to maintain the schedule as it is now.”

The current schedule has New York opening the season, followed by London, Milan and Paris, with no overlapping dates.

Boselli said Monday that “if New York had not changed the dates unilaterally and without reason, there would never have been a problem.” Italian designers are regrouping to decide on the positioning of the Milan shows and a decision will be reached “well before the end of the month.”

Boselli added that Italian designers are showing a united front, and are evaluating what is best for them. “We wouldn’t have reconsidered the show dates, but since the equilibrium has been ruptured, we are reflecting and rethinking the situation. Already we thought we were compromising and since New York has decided to set its schedule without consulting us, we are thinking in terms of what is best for us.”

It is understood the Italian fashion body is evaluating three options: to move to July; to show before New York in September; or to leave things as they are, which could mean Milan and London would overlap. Several years ago, Prada chief executive officer Patrizio Bertelli was the first to suggest the Italians show both men’s and women’s in July — an idea that never found much support among editors and buyers.

The disagreement over the calendar can be traced back to 2008, when the governing fashion organizations of the four fashion capitals agreed to kick off the collections season on the second Thursday in February and September. Boselli claims the second Thursday rule was only for a three-year period, and thus expires this year, while the CFDA and the British Fashion Council maintain it was a permanent pact.

According to Boselli, in 2012, this timing — especially in September — would push Milan’s fashion week too late for production, or cause it to be “squeezed” in between London and Paris. “After three years, we should sit down and decide on the next three years, and we don’t understand why the CFDA has single-handedly set the New York show dates later in September next year,” he said.

On Monday, CFDA president Steven Kolb reiterated that the agreement between the four cities was “permanent. We can’t move the dates earlier in September as they would interfere with Labor Day. It is not what we agreed to and it would be unfair if Milan moved earlier. If Milan goes before New York, how will that work?” said Kolb, noting that the Italian city ideally wants to attract international editors, who would not travel to Europe twice in a month.

“New York and the CFDA have always been approaching dates in a global way, and we are open to ideas of partnership and collaboration,” added Kolb.

“Steven is correct — the dates agreement was understood to be permanent,” concurred Caroline Rush, ceo of the British Fashion Council. “London is unable to change its dates for September 2012 due to venue accessibility following the Olympic and Paralympic games in London next year.”

She added, “Camera Nazionale della Moda and Chambre Syndicale have announced dates for September 2012 that contravene the fashion week dates agreement of September 2008. We are in direct discussion with our counterparts and hope to resolve the matter over the next few weeks. We have a great deal of support from both international and domestic media and retailers in retaining the dates agreement.”

A meeting was held on Friday between the CFDA and the British Fashion Council, which Boselli was unable to attend.

Some Europeans suggest that Milan and Paris could end up standing together on the issue of dates. An industry source said, “Paris and Milan are strong fashion capitals, and the axis between the two continues to hold well.”

But asked about the show date controversy, Didier Grumbach, head of the Chambre Syndicale, indicated he was more in favor of compromise than confrontation — and that nothing can be changed next year anyway. One of Paris’ main concerns, he said, is that women’s ready-to-wear show weeks don’t move any earlier as then it gets too close to couture.

“When planning our schedules we have to factor in the time constraints of houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier or Givenchy that deliver couture, men’s and women’s shows with one designer,” he said. “In any case, these things can’t be improvised. We have our locations. To move dates on venues like the Grand Palais cannot be improvised. Those dates are decided months and months in advance. If [anyone wants to] move dates for 2013, why not, we have the time to talk about it, to arrange it.”

Another source said this latest clash with the American association echoes another one with Vogue U.S. editor in chief Anna Wintour, who was blamed by the Italian media in early 2010 for compressing Milan’s fashion week to a four-day event for a few seasons. Italian designers reconsidered the issue and in 2010 they extended the shows to run Sept. 22 to 28.

Boselli declined to comment on the Newhouse letter, but Kolb noted: “I think it speaks for itself.”

wwd / october 4, 2011

[LabelWhore4]

It might seem unfair but I say shorten London. I mean, shouldn't Conde Nast try to please their big advertisers? The big ads come from NY, Milan, and Paris... Sorry London.

[Melancholybaby]

I seriously doubt Franca Sozzani and the Vogue Italia team would skip the Milan shows. Vogue Italia has a very strong relationship with Italian designers and most of their ad dollars (or euros) come from Italia fashion houses and brands.

[user.n.]

Labor Day will be on the 3rd of Sept. next year, so why they have to start NYFW on the 13th? I don't really get this since i'm not American. On the other hand, it's only a day, right? Not a whole week.
So sounds like they really want to force MFW into a disadvantageous deal.
I'm curious what will happen, especially what the Italian powerhouses (Prada, Versace, Armani, Dolce&Gabbana) will step.

[ALAUU]

Oh please, Milan is not going to change their dates and risk getting on CondeNast's bad side.

[MulletProof]

All this havoc just for an American holiday? give me a f*king break!, this is nothing but a bunch of politics, clearly meant to favor American businesses, as if it hadn't been obvious since last year with the Anna Wintour circus, it's a little funny they've just decided to go after Milan but can't quite venture themselves to have a go at Paris. I'm just glad the Chambre Syndicale know its place and influence and will probably step it up for the Camera Nazionale. This is truly ridiculous, and I'm completely skeptical that someone in their right mind, with a notion of fashion, would honestly (as in NOT threatened by bosses/CFDA) say that there's no way they would skip London or New York and screw Milan, who are they trying to fool? .

If there's one city in need of a good trimming, that is New York, there are too many days, too many useless acts packed into one schedule.. they should see this Labor Day thing as a sign from god to make their crazy long and tedious event slightly more selective and worth watching. Trying to debilitate other cities doesn't make your talent, talent.

[tangerine]

Originally Posted by MulletProof

...it's a little funny they've just decided to go after Milan but can't quite venture themselves to have a go at Paris.

ZZZZIIIINNNNGGG!!! Are you reading this, Anna?

[Heroin_Chic]

Milan fashion week is organized by Camera Moda and not Conde Nast...Conde Nast need to stop behaving as if they were the center of the universe. Aside from that, you may think that they have enough people working for them so they could maybe find ONE who would be willing to work at a holiday!

[Scott]

mulletproof amen!

i mean honestly,who in the world does conde nasty think they are acting as if they control the fashion industry?! it's disgusting. and agreed....like franca sozzani and Vogue Italia would ever agree to skip milan like that. it will never happen. and i hope organizers in milan would never appease some sanctimonious tripe like that. once again i concur,if anything,NY needs a good cut down on their schedule. 11 bleeding days!!! cut it down to where London is and maybe they'll get the idea how bad it really is in NY. frankly there's too much dullard in NY as it is. in fact i would extend the 6 measly days london gets by two days seeing as the work coming out of london has been much stronger in recent years and much more consistent.

[Marc10]

Bullsh*t, i bet they prefer miss Christmas than miss the Prada show.

[modela]

So what happens if the Italians stop advertising in CondeNast publications ... i doubt that they will continue stomping their feets. Editors /stylist have way too much power anyways , it would be smart for the designers to hold their ground for once and not let themselves be run over by them.The only reason why they are going after Milan , is because Milan has bowed down to NY/Anna in the past .It seems as Milan have finally seen the light.I think Milan and Paris need to work together and move on from London and NY .

[saann]

Mulletproof Perfectly said!!

This is ridiculous and unfair. So everyone has to change dates because the cfda decided to. And the threat not to attend the Milan shows is ridiculous as well, good luck surviving on only american designers advertising in your magazines.

And honestly, trim down NYFW and you've found a solution. You don't need a gazillion useless designers showing the same things over and over again, 2 days of NYFW don't even equal the importance of one day of MFW.

[Melancholybaby]

Originally Posted by modela

So what happens if the Italians stop advertising in CondeNast publications ...

Conde Nast magazines will lose a very big percentage of their advertising. If Italian houses were to stop advertising completely the losses would be huge and most oh so powerful editors would lose their jobs. Advertisers need to realise that they hold an even bigger power than editors, simply because no advertising=no money=no jobs for editors and stylists.

I agree with everyone who's stated that NY Fashion Week should be trimmed down at least two days. I mean most designers don't even advertise in magazines, but as long as their Anna's favorites, NY Fashion Week gets so many days for so many crappy designers. The CFDA and Conde Nast are acting ridiculously and arrogantly in this situation and I really hope Paris steps up for Milan.

[agee]

I am American and I think that this is silly, although part of me does not think that the production cycle will be affected that greatly, but I suspect that the Milan designers are also reacting to the bombastic tactics and tone. And since when does Conde Nast get to dictate what Gucci, Dolce and Gabbana, Armani, Prada, Blumarine and Versace will do? If these designers even care enough about these editors not being present then all they have to do is state that they will take into consideration the publications whose editors don't show up when they are buying ad space.

I don't even get this, a magazine consists of ads, editorials and articles, so isn't Conde Nast risking screwing itself over in terms of both content and revenue? And when I think of influential reviewers of collections, aren't most of them affiliated with newspapers and news services? Tim Blanks is affiliated with style.com which is owned by Conde Nast, but are there other influential reviewers who the Milan designers are risking not being present on their front rows?

P.S.
Didn't the season start in Paris or Milan back in the day?

[Label Basher]

New York officials to start that city’s fashion week on Sept. 13 next year in order to avoid conflict with the Labor Day holiday in the U.S.

All the reports I've read have until WWD conveniently left this out. Everyone is ragging on Milan when it's NY that have thrown in the upset.

I agree cut down New York, get rid of the rif raf and stop mucking around with London cause you know they will be the ones that end up being the losers in this drama. Look what happend this time.