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22-06-2013
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Pricciao's Avatar
 
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the black section is so much better than the rest, I think Stefano needs to work on the depth, what works for YSL is not what Zegna costumers want.

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22-06-2013
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This is probably one of Stefanos best outings for menswear he's ever done, as much as I enjoyed his work at YSL, the styling and tailoring is much more cleaned up...of course makes sense for a brand like E. Zegna.

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22-06-2013
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I really like this, it's very Pilati.

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22-06-2013
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Great collection, extremely sophisticated and classy. I'm so happy that Stefano is back

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22-06-2013
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Pilati can definitely give Zegna a new kind of attraction. In love with the lush palette and the styling. The coats are gorgeous.

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22-06-2013
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HQs



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22-06-2013
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22-06-2013
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22-06-2013
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Pilati didn't stray too much from what Zegna has been doing, and doing well, over the past few years, he just made it a bit more sophisticated and charming.

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22-06-2013
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cathy horyn's review:

Quote:
Pilati Quietly Makes His Debut at Zegna

By CATHY HORYN

MILAN — The Italian designer Stefano Pilati has worked at Prada and Yves Saint Laurent, where he was creative director of women’s and men’s fashion for nearly a decade. At YSL, Mr. Pilati often seemed a square peg in a round hole, although, to be fair, no one has gotten the fit quite right except for Mr. Saint Laurent. Mr. Pilati put a lot into those collections — fabric research, religious symbolism, art references — and in a way they suffered for it. Sometimes you longed for the palliative of a beautifully cut suit or dress.
Now Mr. Pilati is at Ermenegildo Zegna, the Italian powerhouse. The family-owned company had never had a big-name designer, and it managed just fine, thank you very much.
But, as Mr. Pilati clearly demonstrated Saturday with a forceful debut for a special couture line, Zegna could use some fashion direction.
When asked to name one thing he hoped to put across, Mr. Pilati said, emphatically, “Color.” Even if you’re not a consumer of Zegna or its fabrics, in your mind’s eye you probably see a solid slab of gray. Without going off the charts, Mr. Pilati proposed some delicious colors — sky blue, butter, saffron, sage and fern, along with navy, black, white and the khaki-sand shades.
If the colors helped promote a modern attitude, so did the notion of what Mr. Pilati called “the broken suit,” meaning a jacket in one subtle pattern worn with trousers in another, generally a wool with a floral jacquard that nearly resembled a paisley. In any case, the effect was quite understated, as well as a way of loosening Zegna’s dependence on that old business of head-to-toe styling.
More than anything, Mr. Pilati showed his experience with this collection and, I might add, his Italian sensibility. One of the nicest designs was a deep blue jacket with slightly rounded shoulders and a springiness that suggested Neoprene. In fact, as he explained later, it was a knit made from a natural yarn. Some of the superfine sweaters were actually a cellophane yarn, he said.
Framing the runway was a video, shot and edited by Johan Soderberg, of Zegna’s pounding industrial looms, interspersed with images of a solo pianist and the rhythmic movements of keys. The point was hard to miss. As Mr. Pilati said backstage, “The savoir-faire at Zegna is as interesting as the power you find at this great enterprise.” A bit of fashion can help express that unique capacity.

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22-06-2013
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I'm so happy to witness this, the collection was superb. I love layering for summer, the color was ease and wearable. Great start!!

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22-06-2013
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gorgeous palette, I love that pastel violet/baby blue color! the coats are absolutely fantastic

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22-06-2013
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A really great collection. It can be worn by many different types of people without sacrificing it's identity in the process. So glad to see Stefano still making beautiful clothes.

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22-06-2013
  29
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Bring the old Versace venue back

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22-06-2013
  30
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Truly an amazing collection. Pilati did what he does best, luxury. The craftsmanship and fabrics is bar none - everything looks so light, yet completely structured. I'm in awe with what he did with the suede. I also love the vertical pockets on the suit jackets.
I'm so happy to have him back

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