Gareth Pugh F/W 11.12 Paris

[hautechild]

Fashion films — by all means. But there’s still no substitution for seeing the real thing up close, as Gareth Pugh proved Wednesday when he turned back to a traditional runway show after last season’s arty, abstract film screening. The clothes were right in line with what you’ve come to expect from him — strong, sculpted coats; molded leather, outsize architectural collars, all executed to advanced Gothic perfection. The beginning looks struck a latter-day medieval warrior tone with gold zippers that intersected across the bust of a sleeveless dress and plain leather breastplate motifs. It was the Matrix meets Joan of Arc in black leather.

One criticism that’s been leveled against Pugh is that he risks being one note. But after all the black and aggression came a surprise. Color, a bright one! A series of cobalt blue dresses were relatively simple and even pretty, done with flyaway panels of silk that trailed off the shoulders and hips. It was a lead-up to a burst of gold, geometric strips on hooded leather coats or squares on a tight, sculpted dress that channeled glamour, Gothic style.

wwd.com

[hautechild]

wwd.com

[hautechild]

wwd.com

[IloveDiorHomme]

I miss old school Pugh.

When he started with nothing.

[hautechild]

wwd.com

[purrmeowsqueek]

RIP The days when his collections used to be indistinguishable between seasons

[Psylocke]

I don't think it looks bad (except for all that gold stuff towards the end of the collection) but I wish he would find another way to create interesting shapes other than with all that neoprene. The flowy black dresses are lovely.

[Salvatore]

Well it's nice and looks well made ....

But.

I swear he is using the same patterns, detailings, cuts, materials - everything - from previous collections. He's very one-note indeed.

[Squizree]

I'm such a sucker for this sorta stuff. The menswear appeals to me a lot!

[TeeVanity]

nice collection, very tame from what I expected to see.

[Crying Diamonds]

I think this section of the market is already covered by Rick Owens and Haider Ackermann.

[Inaya]

I wouldn't have such a gripe about his collections falling into a similar pattern each season, except the look isn't one he's invented. it's the same old Rick Owens (who's much better at this style, so why even go there??) look, materials and production and none of the initial magic/theatrics/showmanship that got Gareth recognized in the first place. why so serious, is what I wonder? I reckon he tries too hard to be taken seriously since he got to Paris... but I'd rather be categorized as an immature costume designer who uses trashbag looking materials ... rather than boring or one-note (especially after only 2 years in Paris!).
he had such a knack for theatrics and refreshing elements such as distorting human proportions, and at such a young age. I am not criticizing or trying to be a negative nancy or whatever here, either.. it's more a despondent feeling. I wear his 2006-2008 pieces often still and they're some of my fav things in my closet, so I always hope for the best when checking his new collections.

[hautechild]

This doesn't follow on from the absolutely amazing S/S show. The transition into the blue was unexpected and nice, some of those dresses are lovely. But while I love Pugh I'd like to see him retain his "look" but still manage to make some kind of greater progression

[VogueParisLover]

I like some of the pieces, mainly from the black and the gold looks. The problem, like you've all said, is that it's all been done before...by Pugh himself, Rick Owens, and a slew of other designers with the similar aesthetics. The blue looks really do nothing for me, them seem to be a last minute sort of thing. However, I kind of like the gold pieces. They are by no means great but a few of them seem hold a certain interest. Overall, I'm not impressed and I hope to see more progression and improvement next season.

[maxlinden]

The redundancy of his collection should be over looked by the quality of these fabulous clothes......IN LOVE WITH THIS