Gareth Pugh F/W 2016.17 London - Page 2 - the Fashion Spot
 
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21-02-2016
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it looks like he was told to start selling clothes OR ELSE, and for that it's not bad. It's just weird that for someone who used to be so "out there" as a designer that when he designs supposedly real clothes his vision of a woman is so dated and old fashioned. Having said that it"s always been good to have him around and if he needs to do this to stay in business I'm all for it.

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21-02-2016
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I cannot see Gareth Pugh´s style in this collection. All I can see is the "Blade Runner" collection by McQueen for Givenchy...circa 1998!

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21-02-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donyan View Post
it looks like he was told to start selling clothes OR ELSE, and for that it's not bad. It's just weird that for someone who used to be so "out there" as a designer that when he designs supposedly real clothes his vision of a woman is so dated and old fashioned. Having said that it"s always been good to have him around and if he needs to do this to stay in business I'm all for it.
Agree.
This collection is very commercial.

A lot of McQueen for Givenchy HC S/S 1998 is there, styling, tailoring, the head "pieces" are looking me similar but in Pugh's collection it looks so commercial that my first thought was " how much could-would it cost?" and normally i haven't this "wantbuyit" feeling by Pugh collections.

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21-02-2016
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bourgeoisie pugh?
very 80s.
not my thing.
would rather he go back to goth.

touches of that here, i guess, with the dragon-lady nails, the bizarre facial/cheek makeup, and those hannibal lector masks (a nod to silence of the lambs being 25 years old last week?).

clearly, these are femme fatales. that much is obvious. corporate dominatrixes. lady killers.

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LOL at the comments.

Mcqueen did not invent 40s dressing. The clothes in Blade Runner were straight out of the early 40s. Dame/ Rich Bitch clothes from the early 40s is what this best exemplifies.

This was the only collection which stood out for me at London Fashion week.

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^Obviously no one is claiming that. But the way the clothes were put together here is very similar to that Givenchy show. And since McQueen is a big influence on Gareth, it's naive to think that collection didn't cross his mind (or his inspiration board) while designing this.

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21-02-2016
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Originally Posted by disco54 View Post
LOL at the comments.

Mcqueen did not invent 40s dressing. The clothes in Blade Runner were straight out of the early 40s. Dame/ Rich Bitch clothes from the early 40s is what this best exemplifies.

This was the only collection which stood out for me at London Fashion week.
True, McQueen did not invent 40's dressing But Pugh vision of 40's dressing is really McQueen-ish.
People are referencing the 40's everytime. Mrs Westwood is a champion in that category and she manages to make it her own.

This is very derivative of McQueen and Gareth can do better than that.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by disco54 View Post
LOL at the comments.

Mcqueen did not invent 40s dressing. The clothes in Blade Runner were straight out of the early 40s. Dame/ Rich Bitch clothes from the early 40s is what this best exemplifies.

This was the only collection which stood out for me at London Fashion week.
As Marc10 and Lola701 well said, Gareth´s way of reinterpreting 40s style is obviously and blatantly through McQueen lenses.
We already knew the 40s film noir influences in Blade Runner wardrobe, by the way...


Last edited by jeanclaude; 21-02-2016 at 03:04 PM.
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personally i don't get all this 40s talk.
the 40s were much softer.

i can see 40s a bit in the hair and the hats i guess.

but the cuts here are harder, much more 80s influenced the way i see it. the final trio looks straight out of a helmet newton shot.

i just finished reading this review at vogue, with which i concur, in terms of the references, anyhow.

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LONDON, FEBRUARY 20, 2016
by MAYA SINGER
Gareth Pugh put on quite a show tonight. Taking over the grandiose Freemasons' Hall in Covent Garden, he sat much of the audience proscenium-style, and preceded his défilé with a commanding walk down the runway by Marie-Agnès Gillot, a star ballerina of the Paris Opera Ballet, who then presided over the presentation of clothes from a throne onstage, two male attendants at her side. Meanwhile, a voice on the soundtrack growled, “I’m a man-eating machine.” To drive the point home, some of the models in this show wore Hannibal Lecter hockey masks.

Many designers have taken on the theme of female power. Pugh was reckoning with female authority, which is something else. Women have always exercised various forms of power, but asserting a claim to be in charge—to wear the pants, as it were—is something else, and Pugh did well to address himself to the theme. Pugh’s pants were flared, and came topped by fitted jackets with shoulders like daggers. One version of the look was royal blue and star-spangled, which stage-winked at the one particular woman asserting a claim to be in charge who likely inspired this collection. Pugh wouldn’t admit it outright, but if there’s a fashion god in this world, when Hillary Clinton wins the 2016 election she’ll wear Pugh’s immaculately tailored flag suit to her inauguration.

No doubt about it, these were great-looking clothes. Pugh was leaning on the same silhouettes he offered in his game-changing show for Spring, which is no bad thing, and he elaborated attenuated flares and taut sheaths with wrapped pencil skirts, top-notch camel capes and coats, and nipped-waists suit jackets either blouson or tailored-to-a-T. Pugh also produced some of the best shearling outerwear yet seen in this shearling-heavy season: The belted coats were winners, to be sure, and Pugh is going to sell approximately a quadrillion of his snug, shearling-lined leather motorcycle jackets. Pugh is clearly staking a claim on fashion major-ness, putting his days as an experimental young gun behind him and entering the capitalist fray.

A question lingered, though, at the close of this show. Did Pugh really do justice to his interesting theme? This collection had an unapologetic ’80s look—imagine Sigourney Weaver if Helmut Newton had directed Working Girl—while the materials, like the camel cashmere and the Prince of Wales check, ticked the boxes of masculine business wear. There was something a little un-radical in Pugh’s choice to address the topic of female authority via these motifs. That didn’t diminish the collection’s appeal, on a garment-by-garment basis, but neither did it change the terms of the debate. This was a show about how women claim authority in a man’s world. Next time, how about a show imagining a woman’s world?

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Originally Posted by Not Plain Jane View Post
personally i don't get all this 40s talk.
the 40s were much softer.

i can see 40s a bit in the hair and the hats i guess.

but the cuts here are harder, much more 80s influenced the way i see it. the final trio looks straight out of a helmet newton shot.

i just finished reading this review at vogue, with which i concur, in terms of the references, anyhow.
The 40s theme came into the conversation due to the "Blade Runner" collection by McQueen. "Blade Runner" wardrobe was inspired by 40s film noir looks (among other influences); but we have to take into consideration that "Blade Runner" is an 80s film...anyway the point here is that Pugh´s collection is very McQueen in terms of cuts and stylism.

Very, very, very McQueen!

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21-02-2016
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For some reason, i love this?
Reminds me of 90s mcqueen tailoring, and while nothing here is new, it really looks good. Like, if we really have to reference the 90s all the time, i'll take this any time of the day. and certain coats/capes and dresses are absolutely stunning. Last season was a nightmare, this is pretty good

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22-02-2016
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Favorite collection so far! Such a strong, and in control woman, i love this!

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22-02-2016
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Originally Posted by Marc10 View Post
^Obviously no one is claiming that. But the way the clothes were put together here is very similar to that Givenchy show. And since McQueen is a big influence on Gareth, it's naive to think that collection didn't cross his mind (or his inspiration board) while designing this.
I am sure it did cross his mind, my point is McQueen does not have a monopoly on a certain fashion era.

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24-02-2016
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I give him credit for wanting to move on from being Rick Owens flashier, little sister brand, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired, especially on the classical tailoring. When you go into the territory of such pieces, you better know if you have the pattern cutters and producers to make it work in the necessary precision (that somebody like McQueen had).

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24-02-2016
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I think I love him the show design style,nice

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