I'm generally fairly impartial when it comes to Gucci. I rarely absolutely love much of it and I very rarely dislike it as such, but I have to say that for me this collection was really not the best at all. It's all very much of a miss for me. The ruffles, the solid colours.. just not my thing at all. Very surprised this is what Frida chose to send down the runway.
As others have said, it's very hit or miss. What works (the white pieces with the coral jewelry, the cobalt blue and turquoise pieces and their respective prints, and the final few looks) really works, and what doesn't work (the ruffled sleeve extravaganza everywhere and the snakeskin prints) really falls flat. I think I'll warm up to it later, but right now, I think this is all over the place.
It was gonna be very hard for her to top Fall/Winter, and we all know that. It's not really my favorite but there are a few good pieces that can be pulled out of it. The pieces with the jewelry embellishments are just gorgeous and I like some of the dresses and blouses with the interesting sleeve volumes. But as a whole it's too all over the place (and I can't stand it when designers break their collections into color groups. Hate it when Versace does it, hate it when Gucci does it).
"For something to be beautiful it doesn't have to be pretty." - Rei Kawakubo
Well 60s are definitely back even though here it's more about late sixties/early 70s. I have to say I really like this approach from Frida. I find the show very beautiful, if you're willing to go beyond the ruffles which I agree weren't very enjoyable. Some of the looks were indeed reminescent of Lanvin and unfortunately Valentino. Especially the 2 dresses with the fishnets for the later. Still it feels very Gucci to me, very vintage Gucci actually. A bit of Jacky Kennedy circa Onassis period and a hint of Saint-Laurent. Some of the looks made me think of a fluid version of the sahariennes silhouettes, he also was a fan of monochromatic.
I like that this collection is much cleaner than usual, the pants feel very refreshing. And yes it's less body conscious, less bombshell-y and defintely not rock, gipsy or bohemian but it's extremely refined and rather sexy IMO. With the back slits for example. I hate the ruffles on the long sleeves and they can be a bit overwhelming on the short dresses. Yet Bette's yellow dress and Anja's finale one are absolutely stunning, and that, thanks to the ruffles. I also like the embelishment on the collars that she's been exploring lately and the print work was pretty good as well. Great accessories too: I love the sandals and the bags feel very retro.
"Quality will be remembered long after price has been forgotten".Aldo Gucci.
You know, in predicting what this show would look like with a friend yesterday I said that, being that last season was actually quite good, Frida would flop with this one because GOD FORBID she has two really good collections in a row. She's never managed it, always following up one solid collection with one awful one, as if she's afraid of repeat success. The problem with a collection like Fall, however, is that it proves that she is capable of forgetting about "the archives" and doing something that's out of the box and unexpected. You can't set people up to think that you do in fact have a wider frame of reference than the 60s/70s/80s only to repeatedly default to the 60s/70s/80s.
Besides that this is just lazy, there's literally no idea here except for gigantic ruffles, solid colors and a vaguely 60s vibe, none of which is particularly fresh or exciting.
You need to move fashion forward when there's a reason to move fashion forward - Tom Ford
Without detracting from the clothing subject, when was the last time Gucci had a white runway?
This looks like a different brand without the black and the spotlight!
It's very welcome, it always felt like it was trying to be more epic than it was.
The clothes, meanwhile, look like someone attempting to do Giambattista Valli badly, or current Valentino well.