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22-04-2004
  1
etre soi-meme
 
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Gucci through the ages -and a pretty good lesson on how to built and lose a family business- from wwd of today

Quote:
Gucci Timeline

1921: After work stints abroad, Guccio Gucci founds a small leathergoods manufacturer and opens his first shop in Florence.

1938: A Gucci shop opens in Rome.

1953: Guccio Gucci dies when the company is at the peak of its success; by then all four of his sons — Aldo, Ugo, Vasco and Rodolfo — have joined the firm.

1960-1980: The company navigates through troubled waters, until Rodolfo’s son, Maurizio, takes the helm in the early Eighties to relaunch the brand.

1984: Domenico De Sole joins Gucci America Inc.

1989: Investcorp SA, a Bahrain-based investment bank with operations in London and New York, acquires 50 percent of Gucci. Maurizio Gucci retains the other half and runs the company. Dawn Mello, the former president of Bergdorf Goodman, moves to Milan as creative director.

1990: Tom Ford moves to Milan from New York to join Gucci as the company’s women’s wear designer.

1993: With $200 million in revenues, Gucci is close to liquidation. Maurizio Gucci sells his shares to Investcorp and leaves the company for good.

1994: Tom Ford is appointed creative director of Gucci, responsible for ready-to-wear, fragrances, image, advertising and store design. His first hit is the extremely sexy stiletto version of the horsebit loafer, which bows for fall-winter 1994-1995. De Sole is appointed chief operating officer.

1995: Gucci’s initial public offering coincides with Ford’s blockbuster fall winter 1995-96 collection with Seventies-inspired silhouettes: low-slung pants, slinky silk-satin shirts and skinny ribbed sweaters, all worn under nipped mohair and frock coats.
Madonna dresses head-to-toe Gucci at the MTV Video Music Awards.
De Sole becomes chairman of the board and chief executive officer of Gucci Group N.V.

1996: Ford wins the CFDA Award for international designer of the year, the first of 20 awards he will collect throughout his Gucci career.

1997: Gucci acquires Swiss group Severin Montres, its watch licensor for 23 years.

1999: In March, Gucci enters a strategic alliance with the French Group Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (PPR) to fight off a takeover by rival French conglomerate, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. The same year, Gucci uses the funds it received from PPR to acquire Yves Saint Laurent and Sanofi Beautè and a controlling stake in Sergio Rossi. Ford becomes creative director of Yves Saint Laurent ready-to-wear.
2000: Gucci acquires Boucheron, the fabled French jewelry house, and signs an agreement to acquire 51 percent of Alexander McQueen and Bedat & Co., the luxury watch producer.

2001: In September, at the end of a three-year litigation with LVMH, an agreement stating the French company’s definitive exit from Gucci’s capital is reached. On the basis of this agreement, PPR undertakes to guarantee to all shareholders the option to sell their Gucci Group shares in March 2004 at a fixed price of $101.50 per share, subsequently reduced to $85.52 per share.
Also during the year, Gucci acquires a majority stake in accessories maker Bottega Veneta, 50 percent of Stella McCartney and all of Balenciaga.

2003: On Nov. 4, PPR announces that it will not renew the contracts of Ford and De Sole and that they will leave Gucci on April 30, 2004. The two men said later that the breakdown in talks resulted from the issue of management control of Gucci as well as PPR wanting Ford to give up designing Yves Saint Laurent.

2004: With the fall-winter 2004-2005 collection, highlighted by knockout evening numbers, fabulous coats, sexy silhouettes and dragon-buckle bags, Ford takes his last bow on the Gucci runway. Ford considers a career in Hollywood, while De Sole plans to move to South Carolina. Ford is replaced at Yves Saint Laurent by Stefano Pilati and at Gucci by the trio of Alessandra Facchinetti, Frida Giannini and John Ray.

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22-04-2004
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Nice It's a good thing to refer back to! Good work hun

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22-04-2004
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I don't know why, but for some reason I think that Gucci will take a reverse path, u know, wind up where it was before Tom and Dom came in. I don't know why, but some of PPR's descisions so far don't seem to be in the brand's best interest. It'll be interesting to see if I'm right or wrong.

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22-04-2004
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Yeah, I dunno about a trio working on Gucci... it might look too jumbled, and some disagreements or differences might negatively show through the clothes. But it'd be their first season there, so I won't expect the world. I have faith in Pilati though

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22-04-2004
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Nader, your signature is a riot! I hate to admit, but that's any high school girl in my neighborhoods dream as well.

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22-04-2004
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That's sad

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22-04-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Alejandro@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 2:55 pm
That's sad
What is?

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22-04-2004
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Aw, how everything turned from this small shop in Florence, to this huge empire, and now everything is going downhill again...

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22-04-2004
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I've read alot about the Guccis.. The House of Gucci and Gucci: A House Divided were two of the books I've read. The former was better... and both were very revealing. I used Guccio (the founder of the whole shebang in the early 1900s) for my English biography paper I had to write.

Tom Ford is depicted is a hard worker in those two books, but from other stories I've heard, maybe he isn't. Who knows.

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22-04-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nader@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 11:50 am
Yeah, I dunno about a trio working on Gucci... it might look too jumbled, and some disagreements or differences might negatively show through the clothes. But it'd be their first season there, so I won't expect the world. I have faith in Pilati though
I also agree that a singular unified vision is absolutely necessary for a brand like Gucci. Let's hope the three designers have some sort of mutual understanding and effective communication about the general direction of their first season.

But eventually I feel a creative director overseeing the entire brand is needed.

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22-04-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Orochian+Apr 22nd, 2004 - 4:14 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Orochian @ Apr 22nd, 2004 - 4:14 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-Nader@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 11:50 am
Yeah, I dunno about a trio working on Gucci... it might look too jumbled, and some disagreements or differences might negatively show through the clothes. But it'd be their first season there, so I won't expect the world. I have faith in Pilati though
I also agree that a singular unified vision is absolutely necessary for a brand like Gucci. Let's hope the three designers have some sort of mutual understanding and effective communication about the general direction of their first season.

But eventually I feel a creative director overseeing the entire brand is needed. [/b][/quote]
I am convinced that PPR has 90% of their faith in advertising rather than design.

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22-04-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by faust+Apr 22nd, 2004 - 10:20 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(faust @ Apr 22nd, 2004 - 10:20 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'>
Quote:
Originally posted by Orochian@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 4:14 pm
<!--QuoteBegin-Nader
Quote:
@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 11:50 am
Yeah, I dunno about a trio working on Gucci... it might look too jumbled, and some disagreements or differences might negatively show through the clothes. But it'd be their first season there, so I won't expect the world. I have faith in Pilati though

I also agree that a singular unified vision is absolutely necessary for a brand like Gucci. Let's hope the three designers have some sort of mutual understanding and effective communication about the general direction of their first season.

But eventually I feel a creative director overseeing the entire brand is needed.
I am convinced that PPR has 90% of their faith in advertising rather than design. [/b][/quote]
absolutely they dont care a bit about the design element, they never did

what makes me wonder is how unfair is for a hard built familybusiness, just as it starts making serious money.. (due to success) to slip out of family control and gradually pass to a group of directors..

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22-04-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lena+Apr 22nd, 2004 - 4:37 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lena @ Apr 22nd, 2004 - 4:37 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'>
Quote:
Originally posted by faust@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 10:20 pm
Quote:
Originally posted by Orochian@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 4:14 pm
<!--QuoteBegin-Nader
Quote:
Quote:
@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 11:50 am
Yeah, I dunno about a trio working on Gucci... it might look too jumbled, and some disagreements or differences might negatively show through the clothes. But it'd be their first season there, so I won't expect the world. I have faith in Pilati though

I also agree that a singular unified vision is absolutely necessary for a brand like Gucci. Let's hope the three designers have some sort of mutual understanding and effective communication about the general direction of their first season.

But eventually I feel a creative director overseeing the entire brand is needed.

I am convinced that PPR has 90% of their faith in advertising rather than design.
absolutely they dont care a bit about the design element, they never did

what makes me wonder is how unfair is for a hard built familybusiness, just as it starts making serious money.. (due to success) to slip out of family control and gradually pass to a group of directors.. [/b][/quote]
yea, they could be publicity/socialite Gods, instead of just plain wealthy

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22-04-2004
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I've heard that the Gucci family was rumoured to involved with the Mafia...admittedly just about every large Italian firm (inc. Versace) is 'rumoured' to have Mafia connexions...

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22-04-2004
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Quote:
Originally posted by faust+Apr 22nd, 2004 - 4:20 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(faust @ Apr 22nd, 2004 - 4:20 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'>
Quote:
Originally posted by Orochian@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 4:14 pm
<!--QuoteBegin-Nader
Quote:
@Apr 22nd, 2004 - 11:50 am
Yeah, I dunno about a trio working on Gucci... it might look too jumbled, and some disagreements or differences might negatively show through the clothes. But it'd be their first season there, so I won't expect the world. I have faith in Pilati though

I also agree that a singular unified vision is absolutely necessary for a brand like Gucci. Let's hope the three designers have some sort of mutual understanding and effective communication about the general direction of their first season.

But eventually I feel a creative director overseeing the entire brand is needed.
I am convinced that PPR has 90% of their faith in advertising rather than design. [/b][/quote]
We'll see how quickly their faith in such a strategy dissipates. Gucci wasn't brought back from the grave by the strength of advertising and marketing alone.

Next thing you know we may be seeing licensed umbrellas and GG-logoed lighters at your local duty free shops.

Oh I don't even wanna ponder on that thought...

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