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05-03-2011
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My favourite collection of the season so far. Ackermann has become on of the highlights of Paris Fashion Week. He has such a way with fabric, it really blows me away, and it's nice to see the appropriately moody colours, with the unexpected the touch of sequins.

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05-03-2011
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Where is he from???

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05-03-2011
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Every season he is really progressing his vision further and further and making it richer and more textured. He continually stays true to his vision while really pushing forward which is more than you can say about a lot of his peers right now.

The cut outs on the hips are so dangerously sexy, I can't wait to see someone bold pull it off.

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05-03-2011
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Something here isn't quite doing it for me. Lord knows I love Haider's work but I feel like this is both too familiar and too haphazard. Nothing about this really strikes me as feeling fresh for him and some of the styling is truly too much. Even the colors don't move me, pretty as they are. It's got all of his signatures, but I don't think they're as accomplished or as beautiful as they normally are, the first two coats notwithstanding.

He's been on such a winning streak these last couple of years, and for me this collection really doesn't compare.

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05-03-2011
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I'm not crazy about the huge belts... beautiful, but not as striking as his spring collection for me.

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05-03-2011
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That skirt on Karmen is divine.

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05-03-2011
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i am completely head over heels for this collection now that i've seen the details. Haider gives draping a new meaning; he twists and molds and tucks like no other, his fabrics turning into second skin.. everything is just exquisitely done, all somber and decadent at the same time, and in such delicious wine colors. this designer clearly deserves a slot in the upcoming musical chairs that is to happen in various Parisienne houses. go nab Chanel, go get Givenchy go disrupt Dior for freaks sake Haider.

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05-03-2011
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05-03-2011
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05-03-2011
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Now this is what you call a F/W collection! This is so far the best collection I have seen come out of Paris this year.

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05-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultramarine View Post
He certainly love his textures and to drape clothes on the models body. The result its a very luxurious, rich, decadent feel which I think its missing from what you can find in the market.

Its very very good.
I think that is exactly what I love about this. Everything else seems to be over the top or just pretty or dark and moody. But this is dark in the decadent sense, which like you said is missing from everything else.

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05-03-2011
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This is one of the best collection of the season so far. It could possibly be the best. It is sexy without showing as much skin as last season. It is the perfect combination of femininity with the touch of masculinity. The jackets are so beautifully cut and constructed. The fabrics are draped, twisted, and hung on the body with so much ease. The craftsmanship is superb, leaving the collection without any sensibility of being overworked. The jewel tones are simply divine and makes the whole collection that much more luxurious and rich amidst its moody undertone.


Last edited by Ives927; 05-03-2011 at 08:23 PM.
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05-03-2011
  44
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Originally Posted by Not Plain Jane View Post
The colour palette and the way he makes fabric bunch and cascade are just phenomenal. I was eager for this collection and it does not disappoint: it has a darkness, like a Owens or Demeulemeester show, but Ackerman seems to be also a romantic, which is where I see a parallel with Lanvin. It is like you can "expect the unexpected" with Ackerman though - the belts across the chests, the cut-outs at the hips - but not in a gimmicky way at all; he is all about the form and the fabric. Lovely.
Well put NPJ. I agree entirely there is a parallel with the skill with which Elbaz drapes the form and combined with the deconstructive edge of Demuelemeester or perhaps Kawakubo.

I was critical last season of Ackermann's introduction of colour, felt it a step backwards. I was right to be because this season he has matured as a sublime colourist. Last season his palette was clunky compared to this season where his tones have a beautiful balance between contrast and match.

I think the secret of Haider's success is in his balance. His work has the perfect balance of edge and elegance with just the right amount of sex appeal via the plunging necklines, the cutaways and the pieces that seem somehow to melt from the body. In a way this idea of balance is demonstrated by the comparisons with Elbaz and Kawakubo. Alber is never quite this edgy, Rei never quite manages this level of elegance.

Ackermann also perfectly balances rigidity and fluidity. There's often a meticulous balance in a look between the scrunched up or the cinched in and the falling down or the floating away.

The way he drapes and clasps leather is perhaps a particular forte. And the amount of skin he shows always seems perfectly judged. Enough to excite the senses but never feeling for a minute like the wearer is obvious or trying too hard. There's a bodyconsciousness but also such an ease. Again opposites in balanced harmony.

There's also a Japonisme about his work (and I have to say the way he drapes and gathers can be seen to have an antecedent in Westwood at her best) but it never feels too far - there's a balancing back with a sense of something more quintessentially European also.

So one might go as far as to say he balances the aesthetics of East and West. There's also a balance between a timeless elegance, a classicism, and a feel of novel modernity.

Another - zen calmess yet warrior fierceness.

And does his asymmetry have a symmetry to it?

Take any yardstick you like, an Ackermann look always has poise and counterpoise.

The reason Ackermann feels so right is that in an age of hybridization, a point in history where boundaries are blurring, Haider is the grand master of the hybrid, the designer who right now, more than any other, holds opposites in harmony, who balances all the elements of contemporary fashion.

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06-03-2011
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It is such a powerful show after watching it, though it didn't quite hit the level of FW 2010 for me as it is still my favourite Haider's collection ever. He introduced even more volume and layers on his favourite silhouettes in this. Some of the controlled volume feel a bit forced, however, he's taken his signatures to such a new height, so recognizable, that you know when something is a Haider Ackermann's piece. The way he makes his cloths look like serpents wrapping, enclosing and exposing the woman's body, and then anchor it with leather or stiff material is quite extraordinary. You feel like the women who wear his clothes are extraterrestrial beings who disguise as powerful, seductive kind with so much mystery and danger, yet so fragile, and vulnerable: a delicate nature.

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