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24-06-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogepma View Post
I don't understand this. If this is the case, Chanel, Dior, Giorgio Armani and Co should all change their names as they all offer perfumes and cosmetics with the same brand name and identity as their ready to wear lines. I do not think their brands are getting tacky because perfumes and beauty products carry their names.
matter of taste/opinion, but yes i'd have to put all the above in the same category, they don't need to change names though because they are not changing identity/direction.. i know the word tacky is going to get me flamed so i'd rather use mainstream or commercial perhaps to describe these brands identities. hedi slimane despite his giant success at dior, fits in a more minimalist indie category closer to the antwerp designers imo. i predict similar changes perhaps not in name but definitely in image/aestethics with raf simons at dior..



Quote:
Originally Posted by ogepma View Post
All in all, this looks like the brand will suffer an identity crisis. Keeping the YSL logo but calling it Saint Laurent Paris is very pointless.
wrong... like i said previously, hedi did the same thing at dior, he changed the name to dior homme but kept the CD logo for many items. there was no confusion everyone knows CD=DH just like everyone will eventually understand YSL=SLP. it will just be more understated, which is a value hedi is known for. there is also a main purpose behind this, as it is setting the tone for a new era just like when hedi took over dior menswear, a radical transition with not just with the clothing style or image but entire philosophy of the brand was re-written... we have yet to see what changes will be brought to YSL, but i'm betting on quite a bit although we'll have to wait until FW13 for the transition to really sit in..


Quote:
Originally Posted by ogepma View Post
YSL changed the rive gauche logo from what it was in the 60's to the HC one for a reason. It's best to leave it at that and focus on the clothes.
this is not the way hedi operates, he will undoubtedly focus on the clothes, but he will tweak the image further to fit his aestethics/concept.. it could go as far as re-designing the stores themselves again as he did with dior.. i think it's quite brilliant, and i have full trust the changes will be for the better in the long run..

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24-06-2012
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Feeling ambivalent about the name change. I doubt it would have a big effect on the customer.

If they change the logo, then that would be the stupider move and might elicit a customer backlash. But of course we know that they won't (for now.)

I wonder what Hedi plans for the accessories department. Will he design for it as well? Will he get rid of the muse and the other Stefano designs as part of his long-term plans?

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27-06-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Izreal View Post
wrong... like i said previously, hedi did the same thing at dior, he changed the name to dior homme but kept the CD logo for many items. there was no confusion everyone knows CD=DH just like everyone will eventually understand YSL=SLP. it will just be more understated, which is a value hedi is known for. there is also a main purpose behind this, as it is setting the tone for a new era just like when hedi took over dior menswear, a radical transition with not just with the clothing style or image but entire philosophy of the brand was re-written... we have yet to see what changes will be brought to YSL, but i'm betting on quite a bit although we'll have to wait until FW13 for the transition to really sit in..
This is like comparing apples with oranges. How can YSL be compared to Dior Homme? YSL is like a national institution in France; a legacy house. The name YSL is inbreed in the minds of many; those who are into fashion and those who aren't. When Heidi took over at Dior Monsieur, there was no defined aesthetic that it was known for hence the necessity to restructure drastically. YSL is a totally different situation. Its not like the house currently has tainted brand image at the moment. Granted, Berge destroyed the brands image years ago when he sold the licences but that has all been fixed now. Stefano did a wonderful job in reinventing the house and that is a simple fact. They have been making money for years now while under Stefano and RTW accounted for a good portion of their revenue. So, no, my assumption is not wrong because right now, as a YSL customer, I am getting confused with its branding and I am sure majority are in my position. A new era is being set for Christian Dior but we don't see Raf changing its name. It is very possible for him to make the identity fit his aesthetic without changing its name and logo. BTW, Saint Laurent Paris sounds cheap IMHO and a bit generic. I once saw a wine bottle with that title minus the Paris.

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28-06-2012
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^ facepalm.... you do realize that Yves Saint Laurent started his career at Dior in the 50's?
CD if anything is an even bigger institution here in France... even more relevant, Hedi Slimane worked at both Dior (2001-2007) and YSL in 1996, and now again. Hedi was there long before Stefano, and many see him as the true successor to Yves both artistically and personally. The change in name is to mark a new era but also a return to form allowing one to focus on the clothing and not the name/logo which carries itself.. I'm sorry if you are confused and not seeing any of this, undoubtedly YSL will lose some of it's former clientele, but it will gain a new one for sure, as Hedi has an almost cult following and many have anticipating his return since he left fashion 5 years ago..

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04-07-2012
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Sketches from the resort collection made by Steven Stipelman for WWD. There's a review/article in their site too, if a subscriber could post it please.




vogue.br

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04-07-2012
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Those sketches are not a good sign, they remind me of Pilati's work, esp the skirts lol

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04-07-2012
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It looks nice but it doesn't look so different to what Stefano Pilati was doing for Saint Laurent...

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05-07-2012
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a little bit more info from financial times

http://blogs.ft.com/material-world/2...sl-womenswear/

Quote:
First reports on Hedi Slimane’s YSL womenswear
July 5, 2012 10:32 am by Vanessa Friedman

As you may (or may not) be aware, Hedi Slimane’s first YSL collections –
women’s resort and menswear — have hit the showroom, but they are for
buyers’ eyes only: they aren’t being shown on the catwalk, and this week
in Paris, critics (that would be your truly), were not invited for a
look-see. Mr Slimane wants to make his first knock-our-socks-off,
he-can-do-womenswear statement in the autumn, at the ready-to-wear shows.

(Also maybe he didn’t want the media making up a face-off between
himself and new Dior designer Raf Simons, whose first couture show for the
House was the news of the week.)

Happily for the curious folks among us, however, buyers will talk, albeit
anonymously — they didn’t have to sign a non-disclosure statement — and
the word in the retail world on Mr Slimane’s first attempt at
womenswear is largely very good.

Though there was some confusion on the street as to how involved he was in
the collection because of the September issue and because the brand is in
the usual transition between old regimes and new, for anyone wondering,
the house itself says Mr Slimane is firmly in charge.

The resort collection is said to be inspired by the early days of Saint
Laurent — think of the famous photo Helmut Newton took for French Vogue
in 1975 on Rue Aubriot, with a nude woman in stilettos standing next to
another woman in a skinny tux with a blouse dripping a bow if you want the
quick-twitch reference. So reports are of skinny suiting, always a Slimane
signature, but also, more surprisingly (and interestingly) little silk
dresses with bias-cut mini-skirts covered in tiny dots, the tops
referencing the tux blouse, both sleeved and not, with a touch of Ossie
Clarke.

Anyway, buyers I spoke to seemed genuinely charmed by what they saw. The
appetite is whetted.

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05-07-2012
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^Well, at least that sounds really good. He obviously has the style, but I wonder more about the flair, the dash and the unexpected...

Yves Saint Laurent was a lot more than a hipster Jared Leto - most of all he had a sincerity about him that was channelled into hos creations. I guess McQueen and Galliano were the last ones of that breed.

Even though these designs sound very promising, I still fear that Slimane will be to "up" - trendy, efficient, businesslike, neurotic - and not at all capable of the deep, sincere, melodramatic mood-swings that generate clothes that somehow reflect that fascinating trembling yet jubilant mind of the original creator. On the other hand Pilati was rather blah, so I guess it's a step in the right direction somehow.


Last edited by iluvjeisa; 05-07-2012 at 06:52 AM.
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05-07-2012
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So is Hedi going to pull a Tom Ford and deput his collection on the pages of Vogue? I'm confused how in the world I am going to be able to see this Resort collection. Based on the sketches I actually think it looks promising....was not even expecting that much color from him to begin with.

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05-07-2012
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05-07-2012
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^it's stated clearly on wwd that those were not hedi's sketches, what's with ysl being so touchy?

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05-07-2012
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"And obviously not designed by Hedi Slimane"....quote of the day

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05-07-2012
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That is so stupid

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05-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistress_f View Post
^it's stated clearly on wwd that those were not hedi's sketches, what's with ysl being so touchy?
It's not that WWD claimed the illustrations were Hedi's, it's that the sketches apparently aren't of Hedi's work for the house, hence their clarification.

I couldn't be more relieved that those sketches aren't of the collection. Beautiful as they are, they're as unimaginatively Saint Laurent as it gets to the point of cliché.

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