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10-09-2012
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I'm not getting my panties in a bunch until I see Hedi's full collection before crying wolf. And even if it's more or less a continuation of the Dior Homme aesthetic, I'm going to be inspecting the garments up close and personal before writing him off. I don't care much for hype, styling or slick branding-- all of which Hedi and his work for YSL will surely carry in spades. But when all that crap is scrapped away, the man is a razor-sharp tailor and knows how to make a garment love the body. If nothing else and he only returns to the kind of immaculate cutting he devoted to the YSL menswear in the early 2000s, that would be more than welcome for me.

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10-09-2012
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Not impressed with the visuals, it looks like a carbon copy of his work at Dior Homme, I dont have good a feeling about this but I will withold judgement till his collection is out.

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10-09-2012
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Here's a quote from an interview with him from a bit back:

Quote:
When he does return to fashion his aesthetic is unlikely to have changed much. "I'm always suspicious of people who change too many times," he says. I've always been very repetitive. Which was a problem, because with seasons people always want, 'OK, what's new?' But the truth is, nothing is new."
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandsty...r-photographer

so yeah, anyone expecting anything drastically different from what he's done in the past will ultimately be disappointed.

i have no problem with that though, he spent years perfecting and defining his aesthetic, i don't see why he should just abandon it because everybody else has been copying him

i don't see people telling yohji or ann d to reinvent themselves

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13-09-2012
  334
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Quote:
"SAINT LAURENT VERMEIL"- A CLASSIC AND MODERNIST UNISEX COLLECTION OF SILVER AND GOLD JEWELRY DESIGNED BY HEDI SLIMANE

@ysl

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i don't know her. claudia schiffer doesn't know her. she was never in paris, we don't know her.
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13-09-2012
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^looks amazing!

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01-10-2012
  336
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Very disappointing collection but I am not surprised. He did say that he wasn't going to do anything new in one of his interviews ( I was hopping he was lying and wanted to surprise us). This is basically Dior Homme for women (if that makes sense). I respect what Heidi did in revolutionising men's wear in the late 90's but it is all dated now. Putting those same clothes on women 10+ years later would not shock anyone.

I am glad this will not have the "Yves" in front of it. While the obvious references are there, I feel he could have done a lot more to transform them. There is definitely a lot of sex appeal and youthfulness (I can see Hollywood written all over it), but I cannot say these clothes are elegant or new in any way (YSL has officially lost its Parisian flair). Funny enough, it feels very Tom Ford for YSL (albeit less vulgar) and also very Cavalli (I don't like the cliché of referencing/comparing designers but I can't help it). Its more annoying because of all the changes he made and the fact that he had all the time in the world to come up with something that would live up to the hype. That's exactly what this is fuelled with, Hype! All the major reviews will be positive but I suggest everyone watches ShowStudio's commentary on this collection. A group of unbiased industry professionals giving their opinion. I am glad majority of them echoed my thoughts. (Although I do have to say those tuxedo's and some of the dresses in the end looked really good)

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01-10-2012
  337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chanelcouture09 View Post

the house should have stayed immaculately silent and threw everything at us all at once, with the re-branding, the whole 'new concept' for the brand.

I feel Hedi was possibly looking at all of the 70's icons/bad girls such as Anita, Marianne & Britt, which in retrospect is quite fascinating, but the execution was not.

I still don't understand why they replaced Stefano when he was doing a pretty stellar job at Saint Laurent, in my opinion anyway, his collections were successful in sales and editorially.

I have to say I am pretty let down by his womenswear debut, he should of stuck to designing menswear.
Great points
*horrible re-branding
*bad execution
*Stefano is a much better designer , but the fact is the collection was not selling as well as the shareholders were expecting
they thought they had to water down
so they watered down with an over estimated hyped 'designer'

*if i was Stefano Pilati i would be buying people drinks tonight

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01-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zazie View Post
It's true that it's the PR machine that will make both Dior and YSL sell...even though I look up to both, for me, these two highly regarded fashion gods have provided quite the amusement this fashion week.
#fact, two fails in one week, it was fun #not

*thank you all people for those great posts
it's the perfect insight for an article i'm preparing right now

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01-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogepma View Post
The problem now is that YSL (Saint Laurent) will just be one of these over hyped brands with a star designer that wouldn't be special any more.
i really believe that regardless the short term profits, this is eventually the begining of the end for the YSL brand

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01-10-2012
  340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uemarasan View Post
I agree. I think Pilati remains the best designer this house has seen since Yves himself. But, yes, I'm looking forward very much to see what he'll be doing for Zegna.

I'm thinking Saint Laurent will probably end up like Dior in the latter years of Galliano's tenure there: profitable irrelevance. This show is as satisfying as a cheeseburger at McDonald's.
I'd throw a little current-Valentino there. Great PR work that makes those boring, irrelevant dresses appear in every event / red carpet / editorial but leaves you with absolutely nothing.

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01-10-2012
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It's a pity to see someone like Hedi Slimane, who obviously had designed a few stellar collections towards the beginning of his career, water down his aesthetics to such an irrelevant, unfocussed, clichéd offering as this first collection for Saint Laurent. I was expecting a lot more rigor, editing and precision in his work, this falls flat with all the over-accessorisation and obvious vintage re-hashing. A brand like Saint Laurent needs a stronger 'message' and identity that distinguishes itself from other houses' identities, but as had already been pointed out; this look is already beaten to death by all of those designers nurtured under Emmanuelle Alt's eye. What a disappointment from a designer who used to have such a visionary voice of his own!

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01-10-2012
  342
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I quite like what I have seen thus far. IMO Hedi was damned from the start, way too many expectations and criticisms before the first look even hit the runway.

This is Hedi's interpretation of YSL and considering his strategy, I think the references in this collection made sense. Also considering that this is the first collection he has sent down the runway, there is much more to come.

At the end of the day, this isn't Stefano Pilati designing for the brand, nor is it Tom Ford. They obviously hired the man for a reason, knowing his past and knowing what his aesthetic is. He loves music, he loves rock and roll, he loves skinny suits, and that isn't going anywhere.

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01-10-2012
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It said nothing to me until I saw it move.

Where Mr. Slimane could succeed, in ways the designers since Saint Laurent at Rive Gauche have failed, was in the stiffness, in the awkwardness of the models, in the implicit confession that this ride is not going to be smooth.

This was also apparent in Pilati's last collection for the house, perhaps because the pants were stiff, tight. Can it still be seductive if it's awkward? Could it still be considered sensual? How successful could Belle du Jour possibly have been if she really were just a bourgeois housewife? In the stiffness, in the eagerness of the mind and spirit, failed by the body's lack of know how.

It's this dream of YSL, this idea that one could achieve some kind of magical transformation simply through the clothes, simply by strapping oneself in, the sheerness trailing behind you like smoke, in lurid color combinations not hinted at since Mr. James lost his mind.

Slimane was clever in that he didn't pretend to have all the answers. He's checking her out, stalking her, trying to discover who in their right mind would walk around looking like that in 2012, 2013. And if doing so by way of California gets him close enough to begin to make the necessary changes then so be it.

I flip flopped: there were moments where I couldn't help but think of Patti Smith belting out songs on stage with her arms crossed and then, over to Stevie Nicks, chiffon tornado, these well worn rock goddesses who probably wouldn't be caught dead in Saint Laurent at that time. They didn't need him.

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02-10-2012
  344
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I don't get why there is so much hate here, are they from people who love him or hate him?
I personally think most of this collection are a good marriage between the aesthetics of ysl's and his own, (perhaps more rehashing of his own from the dior homme days) I would be shocked if he were to present a collection like opening ceremony's Kenzo...it is probably not trendy per se or offer any new inspirations but if it is style you are after, I think most of these clothes are stylish by themselves...do we really want to see him sending out looks after looks of ruffled dresses, blousons like what many other designers are showing this season? Would that then be deemed 'trendy'?
I also disagree what some people saying this looks more LA than Paris, I can totally imagine a woman in streets of Paris in this, than LA anywhere.
I am no fashion historian and I won't pretend to be one but the looks do have a hinge of YSL in them. Most importantly perhaps, is that these clothes can sell, hype or no hype.

This is the man's first season so I think let's just give him a break.

Ps. I don't think he has the time to personally dictates who gets to sit front row and who doesn't, like what Horyn said in her article about the Le Monde editor...

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02-10-2012
  345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vetements View Post
I don't get why there is so much hate here, are they from people who love him or hate him?
I personally think most of this collection are a good marriage between the aesthetics of ysl's and his own, (perhaps more rehashing of his own from the dior homme days) I would be shocked if he were to present a collection like opening ceremony's Kenzo...it is probably not trendy per se or offer any new inspirations but if it is style you are after, I think most of these clothes are stylish by themselves...do we really want to see him sending out looks after looks of ruffled dresses, blousons like what many other designers are showing this season? Would that then be deemed 'trendy'?
I also disagree what some people saying this looks more LA than Paris, I can totally imagine a woman in streets of Paris in this, than LA anywhere.
I am no fashion historian and I won't pretend to be one but the looks do have a hinge of YSL in them. Most importantly perhaps, is that these clothes can sell, hype or no hype.

This is the man's first season so I think let's just give him a break.

Ps. I don't think he has the time to personally dictates who gets to sit front row and who doesn't, like what Horyn said in her article about the Le Monde editor...
I've been a huge fan of Hedi over the years. I've never been particularly interested in menswear but i did love his work at dior homme and respect the integrity that he has, the way he build an aesthetic in such a strong way(either you like it or no that's undeniable). I love his work as a photographer (although it's getting stale, just like this rocknroll indie attitude that belongs in 2005), i own now rare publications and genuinely enjoy it. BUT i don't like this, at all. Especially considering how firm he was in wanting to renovate, build a new era, radically change everything... this is not a step forward. This is far beyond modern. I was annoyed by the pr frenzy that led to the show but i was really hoping he'd supripre and wow me. He didn't, not yet.

anyway i have to agree. they have made it more than clear that hedi has full on control on -every- aspect of the brand now, i don't have an hard time believing he made tantrums on who gets to sit front row or doesnt.

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