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26-02-2012
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^^I know! Its like figuring out a puzzle. :p
I'm so excited about Slimane x YSL. I can't even express it it's so amazing!
I wonder where pilati will going though (like all of you) I'm not sure he would be a good fit for dior... Or he'll make into something new? (I'm hoping, I'm not liking the current "dior without galliano" collections, it has lost it's magic)

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26-02-2012
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I think Stefano is just tired of it all...but great to see Hedi is back!

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26-02-2012
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like spike alluded to,the one glimmering attribute about hedi was that he was a PR's dream. throughout each of his stints he generated a considerable amount of attention(ridiculously so at dior homme) and kept both houses much afloat and well received by customers.


Last edited by Scott; 26-02-2012 at 10:06 AM.
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26-02-2012
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So is this just a rumor or is it official that Slimane is going to be appointed?

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26-02-2012
  65
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^This week maybe!

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26-02-2012
  66
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Wow these shakeups really got my head spinning... raf at dior jil sander back at jil sander and hedi at ysl

This is a dream come true if it all turns out correct, and might bring my interest back into high fashion menswear again..
(i pretty much haven't step foot in a fashion boutique since hedi left in 2007 coincidently )

also a lot of people here seem to forget hedi started at ysl in 1996 and pretty much transitioned the label into the 21st century, i think it is very suiting and formidable that he returns there more than a decade later!!

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26-02-2012
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Quote:
We Are All Guilty for This Mess
By SUZY MENKES

MILAN — The current state of fashion, with designers enticed to houses where they may be rejected, removed and re-embraced, leaves a queasy feeling.

The drama that started almost exactly a year ago with the breakdown and departure of John Galliano from Dior has spread across the fashion universe.

The moving end to Raf Simons’s seven years at Jil Sander dominated the Milan scene over the weekend as much as the news that Ms. Sander herself will be returning.

Speculation now has Yves Saint Laurent taking on Hedi Slimane, who was a designer choice to follow the original maestro. The idea that Mr. Slimane, who has followed a photographic career since his departure from Dior Homme, would move back to YSL, where he once designed men’s wear, has created yet-another firestorm across the cybersphere.

Caught in this maelstrom are the designers. By their nature artistic and fragile people, they see themselves treated like commodities, bought and dispensed with as the corporate house pleases.

There is a reason that long-serving fashion executives have been replaced in recent years by chief executive officers whose history is in ice cream, yogurt or other marketable products. With a global society hungry for luxury, distribution and supply chains are now as important for executives as a hands-on feel for products.

But not all the blame can be put on the corporate conglomerates, who have, like a flood tide, been inundating family-run houses. In Italy, La Familia just about hangs in there, hoping that each generation will serve up a smart son or daughter. But it is increasingly hard for small Italian brands to keep a mom-and-pop business going, especially when China’s industrial base for fashion will soon outstrip Italy’s.

Designers, too, are not blameless victims of the new deal. They have also become commoditized, picking the right lawyer to fight for sky-high salaries and sweet treatment as if they were Hollywood stars.

Cut off from reality, as Mr. Galliano was and many others still are, in the world of first-class travel and the chauffeur at the door, they find themselves enmeshed in a web of their own making.

They are too used to a lifestyle that has brought them fabulous apartments filled with contemporary art and photography to break out of this lush gilded cage, where they are obliged to dance again and again: fashion show, store opening, midseason presentation, second line, media interviews, team meeting, ad shoots, global travel. Smile, smile, smile — and rock until you drop.

Then there are us, the journalists surrounded by a sea of bloggers. The Twitter world magnifies and distorts reality, as I found out last autumn when my speculation, based on sound information, that Raf Simons had been talking to Yves Saint Laurent people was transformed by the Twitter world into a done deal.

No grain of gossip is too small to grow into a mighty story.

Designers in the past have fought with the “suits” and turned to alcohol and drugs. Why do things seem such a mega-drama today, ending any chance of a sad situation being resolved with dignity?

The natural end of an era, as designers whose houses bear their names grow old and pass away, combined with the arrival of digital cameras and Internet exposure, has created a perfect storm.

Fledgling designers need investment — but how much easier it is to put them in a dead man or woman’s shoes, perhaps also backing the new designer’s namesake line, but only as what the French call a “danseuse,” a plaything.

Karl Lagerfeld’s success at Chanel and Fendi (if not with his own various lines) is the template. Marc Jacobs is one of the rare designers who has fought and won, from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the right to build a global empire in his own name. Yet when he was approached to take over at Dior, he reportedly asked for too much in return.

If designers suffer, what about the toiling teams behind them? They are mostly unknown — loved and hand-picked by a designer, yet abandoned or even thrown out after a change of leadership.

The situation is not universally toxic. The collaboration between Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane with his sister Tammy is a sweet reminder of the Gianni Versace/Donatella years. But what if — as the rumor mill claims — Mr. Kane has been put up for the Dior job? There will be yet another round of musical chairs.

As a journalist, I cannot help imagining with excitement a new era with a face-off between Hedi Slimane at YSL and Raf Simons at Dior — a magnificent battle of style and wills to echo the Armani/Versace, Gucci/Prada or even Chanel/Schiaparelli face-offs of earlier years.

But I remind myself that this is not a game of chess. And that real people — especially sensitive designers — deserve not to be treated as pawns in someone else’s game.
nytimes

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26-02-2012
  68
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how come no one has suggested Pilati for Dior...?
that would make so much sense, imo...

rumours rumours rumours...

:p

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26-02-2012
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Suzy Menkes' article is interesting; thanks for posting it.

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26-02-2012
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Now come back Helmut Lang!!!

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26-02-2012
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After shredding his entire archive, the likelihood of that happening is zero.

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26-02-2012
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i think that about 5 minutes ago the same would have been said about the likelihood of Jill coming back to her own label...

...anything can happen...
:p

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26-02-2012
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True, but Helmut lang is a man of the art world now. He wants no part in the fashion industry. I don't believe he will ever return. Not Helmut. To me, Make It Hard was his statement for not ever returning.

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26-02-2012
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Oh geez... First Jil, now Hedi. Hedi's former designs for YSL were haute couture for men, and so french; he will do wonders at and for YSL. Very excited to finally see him officially designing for women. Interestingly enough, I think Stefano's last collection for YSL menswear seemed to channel Hedi's ultra-luxurious modern and graphic lines of his former YSL-stint.

I think we've all had enough of Hedi's "art". I know I have-- and same for Helmut's "art"... Seriously, now Helmut needs to be the next one to announce his comeback to make it right in the fashion universe. These three are like the Holy Trinity. Hipster designers who are overhyped-up my PR and Anna will be called out soon after their freshness has expired, but these three... I have a feeling Helmut is only biding his time.

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27-02-2012
  75
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can you guys imagine? it would be like the late 90's again! helmut back with jil,demeulemeester,yohji,comme and dries. and talk about helmut,we'd definitely need margiela back too!

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