Hedi Slimane signing to PPR-Gucci Group(?)

[JuiceMajor]

Absolutely adore Lanvin. I can't see how Hedi is going to excite us anymore. Look at Tom Ford, yeah, he might be back but what's new? I do like that guy though.

[tricotineacetat]

Originally Posted by belletrist

I agree about the Lanvin thing. I kind of like lanvin (the bows, the satin sneakers) but Lanvin is a "hype" or "fashionable" thing, there's no design. That's meant to rich people who like extravagant clothes, but there's no edginess at all, whether it's designed by Alber or Lucas. Lanvin women is more and more bland and ridiculous (2K plexiglas belt?) and although I used to respect it, i'm more prone to think that's it's a new Balenciaga (pseudo and totally artificial modernism) About Lucas, I admit I loved past winter, but I hate the washed "things" thery're selling this summer. Next winter is totally luxe-gangsta-Louis-Vuittonish and, hell, I certainly don't want to wear clothes that Pharrell Williams would buy.

I think the concept behind Lanvin men's is not to cater to the same market as Dior Homme, it's not even meant to be about a total 'look', rather than outstanding separate pieces, in believably luxe fabrics.

Alber's vision for Lanvin had always been about an elegance with a comfortable undertone. It's never been about overtly-sharp, precise tailoring, and most of his women's garments were often left with frayed edges, washed surfaces or broken textures to accentuate that imperfect touch. It's a language that Lucas is translating into the menswear, and I find it lightyears different from what people like Pharrell Williams would wear... to me, this is looking a lot more Belgian, like a luxed-up Margiela with a dandy-ish playfulness (as in the bow-ties, patent loafers and parachute-silk parkas).

[verkeerd]

Originally Posted by belletrist

Yeah I believe it's wrong.
I read somewhere the percentage of the DH sales (compared w/ the total sales of the Dior empire) and it was important. How can they loose money with all the people wearing DH? If DH doesn't make money, then how can Yohji/other survive?
Correct me if I'm wrong notwithstanding.

because yohji & the others don't throw their money around like hedi did.

like the exclusive contracts with all the models... the huge atelier... every season they only used like 10% of the clothes the atelier made, the rest they just threw away.

from the stories i've heard it was a crazy money-leaking company..

[realitysucks]

Originally Posted by Scott

why is everybody so harsh about kris van assche?

because his own line suck?

[verkeerd]

Originally Posted by belletrist

Next winter is totally luxe-gangsta-Louis-Vuittonish and, hell, I certainly don't want to wear clothes that Pharrell Williams would buy.

you are so wrong, the clothes are very subtle and introvert.
not 'luxe-gangsta-louis-vuitton' at all.

[JamieCD]

is that too primitive when ya decide to buy clothes cauz soemone else wears that or not to buy when the others wear?
are you buying for yourself or ?

[Whimsicalist]

yes..the french are natural hippies and ,let say,little bit uncommon sense!
splendid reason for someone to not be influenced by dior homme.
please read this..this is amazing!

boyfriend works there and there is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING that lanvin homme has in common with dior homme

existential impliacation..
this some kind of mixture between
lenin ,sartre and telepathie...

my boyfriend is on heaven.
so i am a god!..no no..i am the very sky!

give some proves,guy!

i said..many metaphysicism..so many!
what..are we in some religious fashion design secte


http://frillr.com/?q=node/1567

[Multitudes]

Originally Posted by belletrist

Yes that's true haha. I can't wait for Slimane's show with Penderecki or Szymanowski as a background music(Well, not really opera, but still...classical)

Let me help you a bit here! Think Phillip Glass' Einstein On The Beach or Meredith Monk' Education Of The Girlchild: An Opera ... Pure Edge! ...

Einstein On The Beach(Phillip Glass In Collaboration With Robert Wilson)

Designmuseum.org

Meredith Monk(Photographed by Monica Moseley)

danceheritage.org

Originally Posted by telepathicgoat

meanwhile i continue windowshopping at lanvin homme, cause i love whats happening there!!!

is it also so extremely hot where you all live? its 28 degrees celsius here
: /

a bit much for april....

Lanvin makes me want to become a nudist! ... but properly not a bad choice in that kind of heat! ... It is getting hot here in London to! ...


I'm excited here, for a Hedi Slimane not at Dior Homme, just hope that the Gucci Group is gonna give him creative freedom! ...

[belletrist]

[quote=Multitudes]Let me help you a bit here! Think Phillip Glass' Einstein On The Beach or Meredith Monk' Education Of The Girlchild: An Opera ... Pure Edge! ...

quote]

Steve Reich maybe, too?
Or Xenakis (best way to get all the stupid fashion editors out )

[belletrist]

Originally Posted by verkeerd

you are so wrong, the clothes are very subtle and introvert.
not 'luxe-gangsta-louis-vuitton' at all.

(vogue)



You can call it audacious, or cool, or fashionable, but not subtle. Flashy blue satin sneakers are anything but subtle. So are the hideous cufflinks a seller tried to coax me into buying, the other day. Onyx and bling bling. No way. Some pieces are cool however but it's certainly not subtle. And it's not design in the sense I understand the word. Don't get me wrong, I don't believe Dior Homme SS 06 is the epitome of the design. But Hedi's early works, although being a little bit repetitive, are certainly among the best executed pieces I've seen.

---

@ Verkeerd: Oh oh, I didn't know that at all, that's very surprising. I believe Hedi is the kind of man which cost a lot if you know what I mean, but I didn't knew he and his team spent that much .

@ tricotineacetat: I like Lanvin women, honestly, but I believe that in the same range of clothes, Rochas was far superior (very personal taste); at least I liked it since SS 07 and those techno fabrics and plexiglas things. I honestly can't bear them . I must be a fashion conservative, but for me, the concept of luxury is totally the opposite of the "techno" fabrics (I leave it to "innovative" designers or however we call them). Menswear never convinced me though. It's still to bling bling (for me )

[ETROsexualJ]

Originally Posted by tricotineacetat

I think the concept behind Lanvin men's is not to cater to the same market as Dior Homme, it's not even meant to be about a total 'look', rather than outstanding separate pieces, in believably luxe fabrics.

Exactly. Not everything has to be about ground breaking design. Lanvin is for someone who isn't afraid to wear a double breasted cashmere blazer, a purple silk with black lapel tuxedo, a huge floppy velvet bowtie, big button cardigans, athletic insipred luxe pants, washed asymetrical cut jackets, safari jackets with knit backs, etc. It's more styling and texture than design and there's nothing wrong with that.

[tricotineacetat]

@ tricotineacetat: I like Lanvin women, honestly, but I believe that in the same range of clothes, Rochas was far superior (very personal taste); at least I liked it since SS 07 and those techno fabrics and plexiglas things. I honestly can't bear them . I must be a fashion conservative, but for me, the concept of luxury is totally the opposite of the "techno" fabrics (I leave it to "innovative" designers or however we call them). Menswear never convinced me though. It's still to bling bling (for me )[/quote]

Okay, argument taken...

I think as a brand concept and a design philosophy, it's absolutely fine to finish the clothes the way Alber does it - You have to admit however, that the overall finishing is not very difficult to achieve, compared to Rochas, for example where the most simple a-line skirt would even have a corsetry-inspired underskirt, with grosgrain ribbons sewn on the edges etc. ... what I am trying to say is that; certain solutions in the design at Lanvin (both men and women) are rather raw and primitive (I certainly don't approve a washed leather jacket having cotton knit back, or some of the 'stylist-trick' neckties made of grosgrain ribbon), yet at the same time, the fabrics are without doubt top notch, and super luxurious... I know some of the mills that Lanvin is sourcing their fabrics from and they are indeed some of the best... and most expensive ones on the market.

Back on topic though, I think this has got nothing to do anymore with Hedi possibly signing to PPR...let's see if this is indeed being confirmed or not. Even in the days before Dior, the press was suggesting him as the new designer at Jil Sander, which in the end, turned out to be untrue as well.

[tricotineacetat]

Originally Posted by ETROsexualJ

Exactly. Not everything has to be about ground breaking design. Lanvin is for someone who isn't afraid to wear a double breasted cashmere blazer, a purple silk with black lapel tuxedo, a huge floppy velvet bowtie, big button cardigans, athletic insipred luxe pants, washed asymetrical cut jackets, safari jackets with knit backs, etc. It's more styling and texture than design and there's nothing wrong with that.

I think even more so than styling and doing an obvious fashion statement, this is about personal, quiet luxury... the edgyness comes from the raw and primitve treatment of these precious materials... and maybe the sometimes overpronounced, bourgeouis, dandy-like esprit of the accessories.

[LANE]

I think he's already been approached and turned them down, but...

Hedi Slimane for Topman?
Kate Moss showed success with Topshop... maybe he could fund his own label afterward.

Hedi Slimane for H&M?
Stella did womenswear only. Maybe he'd do just menswear? Or he could do both. It'd be a good way to keep working, learn a little, and raise funds.

Why not?

[le go garçon 84]

great news i think, he has a great talent, but i look forward to see what he comes up with next, he can't do skinny forever...