This doesn't seem like the lines we've seen in recent seasons; something's different. More feminine? And more structured?
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Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
I absolutely adore that white jacket/coat in the first pic, what a great piece!
I agree.
__________________
Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
I don't know, this looks way too much like Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone and Alexander Wang (+ maybe some Phillip Lim and Balenciaga, too) mashed into one. I don't get what's the point of taking inspiration from other New York designers and make it even more wearable and commercial. I know I will love a lot of this when I see it in store but as a runway show this doesn't excite me the least.
Somebody should PLEASE fire these people or rather sell the Helmut Lang brand rights to someone who would actually have a better understanding of the aesthetics this house stood for. This rivals Milan Vukmirovic's take on Jil Sander from the early 2000's in cruelty.
This doesn't seem like the lines we've seen in recent seasons; something's different. More feminine? And more structured?
I'm saying the orangy colour is baby peach. I liked it too
I agree also, more structured - more gio. Less asymmetric. And also a touch less sportif. I liked the initial minimal palette generally. And the wetness. And the minimal close frontedness. Including when deconstructed via biker motifs. (The biker trend really does have long long legs). That also bled out into some geisha shapes (if you like, in the way of Proenza).
Via some of those ways it was still Lang. Toward the end a grungier turn looked promising - the sihouette was still easy and relaxed. But then I struggled really to understand the four florals that turned to close.
Some good points though, a nice vibe to it - soft, cheery but still a bit of slouchy 'tude as well.