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30-09-2011
  31
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Tentacl Ventricl's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TianCouture View Post
What is that white stuff they're drinking from what looks like champagne flutes?....?
Turns out it is champagne - apparently.

The collection is titled 'Sip'. And if we look beyond the models to what's going on in the background Chalayan was back there dressed as a waiter handing out the champagne flutes.

At the base of the glass was a camera. And those coloured blobs we see in back are the projected images of the model's mouth's as they drink.

So it seems the garment cut outs might be evoking at one and the same time mouths and screens. It's certainly true to say that the construction of a look such as the one below really draws our eye into the 'framed'/'lipped' area



And not perhaps just 'sip' but spill. The fabric detailing on these early looks a) spills, cascades, down the piece and b) evokes a waiter's cloth



And the function of an apron is of course to mop up a spill. Of liquid. Perhaps from the lips. Especially if considering sipping.



There's also a sportsy element of course



There was a water[and]sports element in Christopher Kane.

Going back to the camera's in the glasses and the projected images. The place we encounter an intra-oral camera is of course dentistry. And not only do many of these looks feel clinical but do we now see shapes of teeth, molars, in the garment lines?



The shape of dental x-ray films



And another place we encounter 'aprons' is of course when being x-rayed at the dentists



Chalayan appears to have an oral fixation stage for this season. (see Freud).

And there's also, I think, a play on clean versus dirty. Or, we might say, clinical versus perverse.

Now - what are those prints? I can't quite make some of them out

Was it champagne? I guess we'll never know. For sure. Could be mouthwash. Or...

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30-09-2011
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If we look back again at the first image I posted above. The area of the model's body framed by the cut out. The terrain of the model's breasts and the shape isolated by the cut out resembles very closely the three dimensional form of - a tooth, a molar.

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30-09-2011
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Gorgeous. I love the shapes...that draping emerging from the simple cutout in the shift dresses is beautiful. And the folkloric embroidery that gets scratched away is amazing. I agree that this evokes some of Chalayan's work from the 2003-6 period, which is really my favorite period of his.

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30-09-2011
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So original, die for love! Top 10 S/S 2012.

The simplicity and modernity of this collection fill my eyes with tears. LOVED

Brilliant mind this man has

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30-09-2011
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i really like it specially the 5th dress in post # 6

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30-09-2011
  36
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I think this is what a lot of designers are trying to achieve nowadays (and falling flat on their faces).

It is a bit Chalayan revisited, but better. This is perfect crisp minimal couture. Standing ovation!

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30-09-2011
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No thank you.

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30-09-2011
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He's doing some of the best work he's ever done in YEARS. FINALLY, Chalayan has got his groove back.

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30-09-2011
  39
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i just love the windswept floral prints

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01-10-2011
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absolutely beautiful.

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01-10-2011
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A meticulously crafted collection, and purely Chalayan. Exquisite

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02-10-2011
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I'm not blown away by this collection but I really like those blazers.

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04-10-2011
  43
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.

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04-10-2011
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It seems a bit schizophrenic. There are some genious pieces, specially the ones with the shapes and cut-outs very reminissent from 00', as Mullet said, or how the fabric folds over itself- very interesting. But why there is the need for those deadly boring few outfits?? There are some great pieces in there that are minimalist as well, but not dull.
Over all, I think it is a journey through all his previous shows, but with new interpretations, wich is always great to see from any designer, but most of all if the previous ideas or collections were already genious.

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