For his first pre-fall collection with Gibò Co. SpA, his former licensee partner in the Eighties, Jean Paul Gaultier took a look into his rich archive to reedit some of his iconic pieces from past collections. His “garbage bag” dress from the early Eighties, for example, was updated here in an ultrasoft glossy leather. The rest of the lineup was equally playful, featuring lots of asymmetric looks such as half leather jackets layered over suits, while pin-striped suits — a Gaultier fixation — were worked as total looks, with the suit motif repeated on shirts and knit turtlenecks. Bold metallic zippers were used on elegant long fluid dresses and tunics, as well as on chunky wool peacoats and leather biker jackets to create a sort of “hard wear” elegance.
Hate the camel coat/biker jacket etc monsters, but all of the tailoring is exquisite and I think the little tan leather jacket with the enormous fox sleeves is fabulous.
Love love love tailored Gaultier. This is so achingly lush, luxe, masterfully-demented and insanely-expensive looking. I hope this is where Gaultier is heading, and hopefully leaving the camp and kitsch behind. Please, no more conical bras.
this is utterly the most stunning thing i've seen so far from these collections. i mean this is worthy of p-a-p not a pre-collection. i love when gaultier is like this.....really showing off his masterful side whilst maintaining his inventiveness. those fusion coats are spectacular.
When I read the review re: re-interpreting items from past/early 80's Gaultier, I wonder if he was looking at pieces from when Martin Margiela was a part of his team. While I'm not 100% certain on all things Margiela, there are pieces that do seem to have that MMM spirit: the asymmetric coats, the half-leather jackets, the leather bustier with attached skirt in the back & sides, the cream colored gown that only wraps around most of the knit gown beneath, plus the pants done in 2 different fabrics & cuts on each leg. But who knows--maybe it's nothing more than two different designers sharing a similar approach to design.