How to Join
the Fashion Spot / Front Row / Designers and Collections
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Rules Links Mobile How to Join
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
2 Weeks Ago
  1
backstage pass
 
Benn98's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Gender: homme
Posts: 776
John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela
October 6, 2014
John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela
By Miles Socha

PARIS — From pirate costumes to a lab coat: John Galliano, one of fashion’s most romantic, theatrical and controversial designers, is to take over the creative direction of Maison Martin Margiela, WWD has learned.

An official announcement is expected later today.

It confirms widespread market speculation that Galliano was headed to the Paris-based fashion house and despite recent denials by Italian industrialist Renzo Rosso, whose group OTB controls Margiela via a subsidiary called Neuf.

“Margiela is ready for a new charismatic creative soul,” said Rosso, president of OTB. “John Galliano is one of the greatest, undisputed talents of all time — a unique, exceptional couturier for a maison that always challenged and innovated the world of fashion. I look forward to his return to create that fashion dream that only he can create, and wish him to here find his new home.”

Galliano, 53, has been sitting on fashion’s sidelines since being ousted from Christian Dior and his signature fashion house in 2011. It is understood he will take over the design leadership of all Margiela lines, including couture and women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections.

He is expected to show his first designs for the house in January during Paris Couture Week.

The development marks the return of one of contemporary fashion’s most acclaimed talents, absent from the runways following racist and anti-Semitic outbursts that precipitated one of the most spectacular flameouts in recent history.

It also represents something of an about-face for Margiela, whose Belgian founder was often described as fashion’s invisible man for his Greta Garbo-like ways. Following his retirement in 2009, the house left an anonymous team to carry on his legacy, steadfastly refusing to identify any its members.

Prized for his ultra-feminine, historically inspired designs, and a particular penchant for bias-cut gowns, Galliano is hardly an obvious choice for an avant-garde house known for cleft-toed boots, deconstructed fashions and all-white stores.

Yet the British fashion maverick has wide experience designing different kinds of collections, including more casual ranges for women and men under his now-defunct Galliano brand, known for its newspaper prints, distressed leathers and denim.

OTB noted the appointment of a “visionary, non-conformist” talent would give “significance to the iconoclastic heritage of Margiela, and new impulse to its exciting future.”

The appointment of a star designer like Galliano also suggests that Rosso is keen to bring more attention to Margiela - and willing to risk a possible backlash by embracing a disgraced designer.

According to retailers, Margiela management has recently put the development focus on its secondary line MM6 in recent years as buzz faded around its top lines.

Rosso’s OTB swept in and bought a majority stake in Margiela in 2002, one of series of acquisitions aimed at building a multi-brand Italian group. More recent investments include Viktor & Rolf and Marni.

At the time of Margiela’s 20th anniversary fashion show in Paris in 2009, the founder had gradually reduced his day-to-day involvement in the company, working mainly on special products, including the house’s first fragrance, under license with beauty giant L’Oréal.

While long cloaked in mystery and steeped in conceptual high-mindedness, Margiela ultimately took on a more commercial bent following the Rosso investment, opening boutiques in more established neighborhoods, expanding its offer of accessories, and branching out into lifestyle categories such as home decor.

Upon Margiela’s final exit, the company explored the possibility of naming a new creative director, with Raf Simons and Haider Ackermann among those approached.

More recently the likes of former Celine designer Ivana Omazic had cycled in and out, with London-based Marios Schwab brought in recently as a secret consultant. Industry insiders were familiar with other key talents in the maison, particularly Christopher Booth in men’s wear and Matthieu Blazy, who exited the house Oct. 1 after receiving kudos particularly for the Artisinal couture range, cobbled together with offbeat materials and vintage materials.

Rosso has never hidden his enthusiasm for Galliano, best known for a 15-year stint as couturier at Christian Dior.

“Who wouldn’t like to work with him? If he ever got back his name, I would be the first to produce his collections,” Rosso told WWD on Sept. 18, while also denying that he was joining Margiela.

Brave Kid Srl has produced children’s collections for John Galliano since 2008, a licensing deal that sparked a friendship between the designer and Rosso. According to sources, Rosso was among top industry figures who embraced Galliano and assisted him during his rehabilitation.



Last year, Galliano took up a a three-week designer-in-residence role at Oscar de la Renta, and the designer’s influence was very visible in de la Renta’s subsequent fall 2013 collection.



It was a bold and risky move for de la Renta, who later was said to have engaged the controversial talent in advanced talks of permanent employment, which eventually disintegrated when Galliano pushed to bring his own staff with him.

Foreshadowing another return to fashion, Galliano appeared on French television last month saying he was in the midst of a return “back into creativity,” citing his role as creative director for Russian perfumery chain L’Etoile and as a mentor to four male students at Central Saint Martins in London.

Following a series of drunken altercations that prompted his dismissal from Dior, the designer was charged with public insult, with a Paris court sentencing him to suspended fines totaling 6,000 euros, or $8,400. At his trial, Galliano blamed work-related stress and multiple addictions for his behavior.

He is embroiled in a labor case pitting him against his former employers, Christian Dior SA and John Galliano.

It is understood the designer is seeking compensation in the range of 6 million euros, or $7.6 million at current exchange, for wrongful dismissal. A works tribunal is slated to begin hearings on the case on Nov. 4. 

However, sources said Galliano could be laying the groundwork for a possible rapprochement with Dior — seen as a possibility should the designer withdraw his ongoing labor suit against the company, as reported.

 Galliano recently extended an olive branch to Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, during his television appearance, saying, “I hope one day to be able to visit him, explain what happened.”

A club kid from South London via Gibraltar, Galliano hit the international fashion radar immediately after graduating from Central Saint Martins. With his theatrical flair and inspirations of epic proportions, Galliano immediately became famous for his ultra-feminine gowns, innovative tailoring and a cheeky, streetwise edge.

 Commercial success didn’t come as easily. Based in London early in his career, Galliano struggled throughout the Eighties and early Nineties, with a succession of backers. He had to close his business three times after they withdrew their financing because of slow sales growth. 

Still, his technical virtuosity and knack for making fashion headlines attracted the attention of Arnault, who tapped him in 1995 to succeed Hubert de Givenchy upon his retirement, moving the British designer to Dior a year later. “Mr. Arnault is a true visionary to put someone like myself in my position,” Galliano told WWD in an interview in 2007. “Many houses have copied that since.”

 At Dior, he succeeded a string of legendary design talents: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and Gianfranco Ferré. 

Galliano quickly woke up the brand with his bravado, a broad spectrum of fashion expression and a soaring imagination.

 He characterized his shows around 1999 and 2000 as “rupture” moments for Dior, including the so-called “Matrix” couture collection that announced a tough-chic moment, and a hip-hop flavored, Lauryn Hill-inspired show that arrived at the onset of logo mania. He has also sent trailer park babes, bruised boxers and rockabilly types down Dior’s ready-to-wear runway.

 His signature collections have been no less spectacular, from Bollywood beauties dusted in colored powders to a charming, oddball parade of childlike cardboard floats and clothes deliberately too big for the models.

 Later in his Dior career, Galliano churned out more ladylike and commercial rtw, and ratcheted up references to Dior icons, like the bar jacket, equestrian looks, English men’s wear fabrics and the color gray.

Margiela’s spring 2015 show, with Kanye West in the front row next to Rosso, melded sweet, pioneer styles like floral house dresses with edgier fare like nude bodysuits and oversized Willy Wonka sunglasses.

Margiela himself, one of the original Antwerp Six that put that small Belgian city on the map, could not immediately be reached for comment. According to sources, he has has recently poured creative energies into painting and other artistic pursuits.

OTB is also the parent of Diesel and the manufacturer Staff International. Last year, OTB’s revenues totaled around $2 billion.

Source: WWD.com

  Reply With Quote
 
2 Weeks Ago
  2
backstage pass
 
Benn98's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Gender: homme
Posts: 776
Well, I'll be damned!! All those rumours ended up being true then. Very excited about this!!

  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  3
V.I.P.
 
BerlinRocks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MilkyWay-Pluto-Earth
Gender: homme
Posts: 11,109
BIGGEST news of the year (if not this decade) in Fashion Mercato ....
If someone 20yrs ago would have said to me, the young kid buying his first L'Officiel, Vogue etc., that Galliano, who at the time was not even at Givenchy but had Kate Moss on his catwalk and huge connections to produce his shows for nothing, would be the replacement of Margiela ... I would have said "you know nothing witch !" (but I was a kid....)

To be honest, I'm not that surprised today ... Though I wait very patiently to see what he will do.

Good Luck John !
Always heard one never says good luck to an artist, actually. So break a leg, do your best, be strong and show them
(because damn, these margiela nerdscore are gonna wait after you - though i doubt they still even buy margiela) ...


Last edited by BerlinRocks; 2 Weeks Ago at 04:36 AM.
  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  4
V.I.P.
 
KissMiss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: London
Gender: homme
Posts: 6,635
sounds very promising...

  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  5
backstage pass
 
dodencebt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Macedonia
Gender: homme
Posts: 930
This is honestly one of the most exciting news I've read in fashion, ever. I believe Galliano is a genius and that he will find a way to merge his style with Margiela's iconic vision.

__________________
"See, there is a difference between me and you. When you hear Celine you think of Dion. I think of the brand."
  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  6
backstage pass
 
Mathewthew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Earth
Gender: homme
Posts: 535
Does Matthieu left MMM ?

__________________
There are some lines that are way too dangerous to cross. If you're willing to take a chance, the view from the other side is spectacular.
  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  7
tfs star
 
tricotineacetat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Gender: homme
Posts: 1,934
No doubting about John Galliano's level of expertise, but it still seems like a rather odd choice, having him design for the Maison and taking on such a prominent, visibility with it.

This would have probably worked out much differently for the brand if it was owned by somebody like Anne Chapelle. No questioning that Galliano remains one of 'the big names' in the business and will generate a lot of public interest, but I wonder if it doesn't backlash and alienate the last few customers who appreciated that distinctly Belgian discreetness about Margiela's surrealistic designs.

  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  8
fashion elite
 
Pricciao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 2,828
creative director, that means a lot. figure I'll get some appeal from MMM now on.

  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  9
V.I.P.
 
Fashion_Girl22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New York
Gender: femme
Posts: 3,782
Incredibly exciting news, but it's so peculiar.

And it kind of seems as though Matthieu Blazy was edged out of his position in favor of a bigger name...

Curious to see how this all develops.

  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  10
V.I.P.
 
Littleathquakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: NJ
Gender: homme
Posts: 4,588
agree, it's like shoe horning him at Oscar de la Renta. But I'm glad he will be showing again.

  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  11
Hell on Heels
 
mistress_f's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Rome
Gender: femme
Posts: 5,488
This is HUGE. It makes zero sense to me but oh my god i'm so excited. When the rumors started to flow i disregarded them as weird fashion fanfiction but ... it was true.

__________________
photographic | Website | blog
Instgrm
  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  12
rising star
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: France
Gender: femme
Posts: 107
I adore Galliano and am extremely happy he'll be back, but this reeks of desperation - something is obviously VERY wrong at Margiela, and it saddens me that this is the way they go about it. I just hope they treat Galliano with respect and not just use him for media purposes. Good luck to him!

  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  13
front row
 
WilliamsLe010919's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Gender: homme
Posts: 344
i'm so excited!!! i don't even care which house he is at anymore as long as we get new stuffs from him!! yass!

__________________
La La La
  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  14
backstage pass
 
Benn98's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Gender: homme
Posts: 776
According to The Business of Fashion, he will debut his first designs for the house during Paris Couture Week in January. That's rather soon, no? We wont have to wait very long.

  Reply With Quote
2 Weeks Ago
  15
V.I.P.
 
TREVOFASHIONISTO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: N.Y.C.
Gender: homme
Posts: 13,992
i somewhat understand this, i mean both margiela and galliano were all about craftsmanship and detail so i can see why this move may make some sense. no, their aesthetics are nothing alike but im just so damn happy about this.

__________________
Daria W.Maryna.Natasha.Sasha.Snejana
Malaika.Irene.Mijo.Cindy.Imaan
  Reply With Quote
Reply
Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Tags
galliano, john, joins, maison, margiela, martin
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:47 AM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
TheFashionSpot.com is a property of TotallyHer Media, LLC, an Evolve Media LLC company. ©2014 All rights reserved.