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28-01-2006
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It might be the photography but the military jackets look like they have such crappy materials.

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28-01-2006
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i never liked camo...ever

anyone hoping for good womenswear?

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28-01-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pastry
i never liked camo...ever

anyone hoping for good womenswear?

I am sure his womenswear will be fantastic as it always is, this doesn't give me doubts. His menswear is never really that strong and it's not unheard of for him to put out a bad collection. Last season was as lackluster as this just not as blatant.


What I do like is how he made those military parka/bomber jackets. They fit rather interestingly. They look like the kind you get from Spiewak or a thriftstore but more fashionable. His ideas were not bad but I think he could have taken a different route with the execution. His cleverness in menswear usally has to be seen in the stores to be appreciated for me at least. I wasn't a fan of the Lacoste polos last season but he did some clever things with them that weren't put in the show.

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28-01-2006
  19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tricotineacetat
I think this looks incredibly DONE and cheap so far... most of this reminds me of some tacky street fashion brands that are being sold here in Germany.

The patches and pockets seem very randomly placed, especially the pinstriped suit with camo-patch pockets looks horrendous, I don´t see what makes these clothes worth being advertised as very avant garde or edgy, when almost every tasteless bloke is wearing similar stuff as this. Junya, you must have been a bit lazy with the men´s, hopefully you won´t disappoint with a fabulous women´s show in march!
Agreed.

Also agree with fouroclock and faust.

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28-01-2006
  20
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Eerrrrm .... punk hippies?

How did THAT happened? I find it kind of as an disrespectful melange ... and yeah ... most of this stuff can be get at one of those army stores ... Hum ... dissapointing.

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28-01-2006
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it's bad, boring, tired...the converse...the camouflage...ugh...

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28-01-2006
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i've been disappointed with his last 2 collections. the whole army thing seems outdated and tired right now.

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28-01-2006
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i am not really getting this at all.

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28-01-2006
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Im always curious about how military clothes can be used to promote a positive message, maybe im thinking too direct, but still dont see how using military details don't promote war..to some extent.

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28-01-2006
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an intersting collection, even though i wouldnt wear such pieces

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28-01-2006
  26
arndom
 
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It's is absolutely rubbish and unserious. Everybody is doing superiosly cut jkts and coat, super fine fabric, perfect texture, luxurious knitwear. Look at Yamamoto and RS collections.

JW is doing the very opposite. Ill fitting military parkas, wierd details and proportions. This is very hard to sell outside Japan, imo:-P

I love love the pinstriped jkts with military details ("love" print in camo pocket). It is very JW, he has done everything with fitted, small shoulder jkts.

Superb is green military jkts with patches worn with blue shirt. Trench and tuxedo jkt in green military fabric. Some of the looks are very Comme imo. I think JW knows what he is doing. He is not going to be a "luxury menswear designer".


Last edited by nqth; 28-01-2006 at 05:12 PM.
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28-01-2006
  27
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Good point with your last sentence, nqth. I agree, I never really saw Junya as a 'luxury' menswear designer...he seems to be drawing on his own influences and working on his own terms, giving the world his own vision of what existing aesthetics and uniforms should look like, it's like he's in a universe all of his own. And to me, most of his influences come more from the street, ordinary everyday aesthetic...for this reason his pricing baffles me sometimes because it is priced as high as or higher than many luxury labels.

That said, I'm not a fan of this collection...at this point i'm more into the refined subtlety with innovative work on fabrics, textures and cuts that Yohji, Raf and the like have been doing for this season. Junya seems to be trying to keep it grounded, but it doesn't feel very fresh.

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28-01-2006
  28
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I like the TAXI DRIVER styling. It's a slight twist on a perennial theme that will never go away, like leopard prints for women (and men this fall I see)
I had just about thrown anything out that resembled camo by now...
But the A-1 blazer is great!
Just a few pieces that we probably don't see in the show. I especially like his collaboration with brands like Moncler. Nice stuff.

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28-01-2006
  29
etre soi-meme
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tricotineacetat
I think this looks incredibly DONE and cheap so far... most of this reminds me of some tacky street fashion brands that are being sold here in Germany.

The patches and pockets seem very randomly placed, especially the pinstriped suit with camo-patch pockets looks horrendous, I don´t see what makes these clothes worth being advertised as very avant garde or edgy, when almost every tasteless bloke is wearing similar stuff as this. Junya, you must have been a bit lazy with the men´s, hopefully you won´t disappoint with a fabulous women´s show in march!
exactly.. personally i dont mind camo, but if i was a guy i would expect something more than this for my money
imo, Junya's menswear has been going bad for seasons now.. very dissapointed, and like faust said, too soon for a 'camo revival'

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28-01-2006
  30
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Lena's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nqth
He is not going to be a "luxury menswear designer".
certainly not and it's been obvious for few seasons now..
the fact is that at his pricepoint, he cannot be too succesful as a sportwear designer either

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