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22-01-2013
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Join Date: May 2005
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I will agree that Watanabe is DEFINTELY one of THE MOST interesting designers within the fashion industry.

I can only wish to be as talented with construction as Watanabe is.

I can't say I hate this collection entirely....because it is quite unique, fun, and cute to wear.....but

I think what I'm getting upset about.....in concern for Watanabe....is that he's beginning to be.....too predictable and one-note.

Season after season....his menswear collections always seem to be the same.

He explores different genre's....such as utility-wear....military-wear....nautical-wear, etc etc.....but by this point, it's all becoming too redundant to me.

This collection is interesting....but probably b/c of my own personal taste towards severe deconstruction....... heavy reconstruction.....it's just "too" accessible for me to want to wear.

Homme Plus by Rei blew my mind. Especially the zip-up baseball jackets.....that have the deconstructed and re-attached bottom 1/2 of longer coat sewn onto them.

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22-01-2013
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As far as Watanabe being a construction genius....these pants are an example.

I'd wear this pants in a split second, any day.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comme-des-Garcons-Pants-/330862319249?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D1 11000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26m eid%3D5070746824667860994%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1 006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D330862319249%26

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24-01-2013
  18
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I think I understand you with your thoughtfully chosen words.
but as long as the reason you are getting upset is exactly junya man's reason for existing there in the CdG universe, it seems to be rather difficult for junya man to satisfy you.

he is a man who is alright with a shirt and pants and, if it's chilly, a jacket.
and with junya man, he basically designs such clothes as he himself feels like wearing.
it is unlikely that it soon turns into a menswear line that introduces drastically different or new kind of pleasure every season. creation for the line is developmental one, which has the support of the local retailers. so it has the role.

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Last edited by runner; 24-01-2013 at 10:30 PM.
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25-01-2013
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I'm waiting for Watanabe to do a collection that's similar to this collection he did for men back in A/W 2004.

I own 5 jackets from this collection. It's the only collection that he's put out since 2004, that I actually liked.

I own this green jacket jacket with the gold stripes....I will post other pics.

I used to love Watanabe MAN......just not anymore.


http://forums.thefashionspot.com/att...3&d=1292652495


Last edited by margielamike2004; 25-01-2013 at 03:18 AM. Reason: adding more quotes
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25-01-2013
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For the editorial, the model is wearing 2 separate jackets. I own the multicolored flowered jacket on the right side.

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/att...7&d=1292652190

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25-01-2013
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I own this one....which almost looks like a tapestry fabric.

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/att...9&d=1292652495

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25-01-2013
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This is the tread from 2004 that I'm talking about. There are a few pictures of a solid black jacket where the elbows have been darted and ergonomically curved to fit the arm....also the backside of the jacket has been constructed so as to give more freedom of movement through the shoulders.

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f60...s-20042-9.html

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25-01-2013
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I'm not saying that I dislike Watanabe. Quite the contraty, actually.

I liked his A/W MAN 2004 collection so much, I invested in buying 5 jackets from just one season.

What I am saying is.....since this collection, and the construction of some of the pieces from THIS collection....he hasn't used any of his highly technical construction capabilities...nothing revolutionary, or constructed in a more modern way.

Most of the collections he's been putting forth for men are more about patch-working techniques.....which is becoming too redundant, season after season.

I'm waiting for him to grow tired of this patchwork concept....and move forward with something more technically constructed FOR MEN......such as he does in his women's collections.

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25-01-2013
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Scroll the page down to Post #126 to see the black jacket with the articulated/ergonomic elbows and shoulders that I mentioned, prior.

You'll see what I mean about technical construction....and something considerably more modern than the collection he put forth for A/W 2014.

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25-01-2013
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I forgot to add the link so you could see the black jacket. The construction is amazing!!

Scroll down the page to post #126

It's a prior collection from Watanabe MAN.....a/w 2004

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f60...s-20042-9.html

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26-01-2013
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your point was understood with your first three posts in this thread.
please make your posting a bit more compact especially when you are complaining against redundancy and patchwork.
hope junya is checking this and will meet your love and wishes next season.

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26-01-2013
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Sorry for being too redundant with my posts, while also being redundant about my complaints about Watanabe and his patchwork.

I was uncertain if I was making myself perfectly clear.....which is why I added links to pictures of prior collections from Watanabe that you could actually SEE....and not just read about.

In regards to this collection, it's also perfectly clear that Watanabe is obviously holding himself back from presenting a collection for men that's a bit more modern in it's approach. He isn't putting forth a collection for men that is constructed to the best of his construction capabilities.....and this collection from F/W 2014 is reflective of that. He could do better, because he's has done better, before.

In comparisons to this collection....F/W 2014.....and his prior A/W 2004 presentation.....it's only logical and sensible to see that his most recent collections are more easy to market, sell, and comprehend.

Men in particular are more responsive and more likely to embrace wearing plaids, stripes, herring-bones.........more "traditional/classic" prints and patterns.

His collection from 2004.....as far as construction, fit, and his choice in colors and patterns...might have been a bit too daring and bold for most men to consider.

I'm not particularly keen on any designer...who puts forth a collection based upon the marketability of a collection....while holding themselves back from putting forth a collection that's a bit more exemplary to their talent.

This collection isn't as awe-inspiring or as thought provoking as the collections from his mentor, Rei Kawakubo...but I think Junya does have the capabilities to do so.

And you're correct, maybe it's simply a matter of his process being gradual and developmental.

But then again, maybe his developmental process has already been established....he's simply waiting for his target audience and admirers (as of late)...to catch up with him.


Last edited by margielamike2004; 26-01-2013 at 06:41 AM. Reason: spelling errors
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28-01-2013
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for junya, rei is the boss. this is not movable. in his mind it may be eternal even after her future retirement.
when they decided to launch junya man, she didn't say to him anything about artistic/creative directions. but she said some things from management aspects. that is, with the line he is allowed to do whatever but as long as he meets certain sales quota. it's natural that it is a safe/stable line in comparison with homme plus. perhaps junya man has the complemental role so that the company manages to be okay no matter how labile and risky homme plus's creation and business can seasonally be, especially in the midst of this economic gloom. so, if you see junya man getting wild, that should be when the gloom is somewhat being eased at least in his home ground and people including himself feel like being more aberrant ( or when he, awed by your enthusiasm, goes reckless ).

as for what he did with that F/W 2004, though this is just my opinion of course, I didn't see his talent's manifestation particularly in the construction. the shoulder detail in the back of the blazer was something tokito had been known for. the elbow articulation was what ccp had been doing around 2000 ( he started using it again since 2007 ). there must be some others too who had played with those things before. also the fabric choice and fit didn't feel unfamiliar to the CdG (womens as well as mens) fans. each fragment and element alone didn't seem truly revolutionary. but the use of them into his own context. I saw his ability in the art of combination and in the anagram of the contents ever spoken in the CdG language.

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30-01-2013
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Thanks, RUNNER!!

I think your info about the partnership between Junya and Rei....as far as the businness aspects between CDGHP and Junya MAN makes perfect sense.

CDGHP can be a bit too much for too many people to handle, or digest.

People (especially men) are more prone to be responsive and comfortable choosing Junya MAN over CDGHP.

Basically.....for the lack of money that HP generates......Junya MAN is (more or less)...like the "cash-cow" that generates more profits for the company.

It's very much like certain designers who don't make a lot of profits from their ready-to-wear collection.......so they create a diffusion collection (more affordable)....or they make most of their profits from perfumes, cologne's, accessories, etc.

Gucci in particular comes to mind. I don't see very many people actually wearing the clothing from Gucci....but I definitely see TONS of men and women wearing Gucci belts, handbags, shoes, sunglasses, etc.

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30-01-2013
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And you definitely nailed it with the construction (shoulders, elbows, backside) being very similar to what Carol Christian Poell had been doing prior to Junya F/W 2004.

As you said....many other designers besides CCP has toyed with the concept, too.

A.F. Vandervoorst comes to mind....also Christopher Nemeth, Dirk Schonenberg, Ann Demeulemeester, and even Martin Margiela.

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