Agree with y'all. This is just not Kenzo. It is fine and dandy to modernize a house, but you don't have to tear it down first!! That dang swirl print is so overused and the birds?
...ANYhow... Hoping for better next time.
__________________
Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
I disagree with a lot of posters who say this is "not Kenzo." It does have some of the designer's old charm, the kind he had way back in the day in the 70s. I think Humberto and Carol were very keen in distilling the youthful and street vigor from that era.
That said, this is obviously not as powerful as the original. While it has Takada's punch, it lacks his finesse. It looks more Opening Ceremony than Kenzo. I would say this experiment is still very much a work in progress.
Very curious about the quality of fabrics here. If they are good, I can forgive some of the trickier moments. If they are of the same quality as OC, then well, don't need to really say more.
Based on the above (source: a pictoral retrospective at the Telegraph on Kenzo's 40th) I still maintain that this collection is "not [really] Kenzo" in the way that I have known it, even in the 70s. It has generally always had a boho, folksy, hippee, ethnic, laidback vibe, with lots of prints, knits and easy-to-wear pieces. It has never seemed downtown, clean, severe or edgy, imo, and that is the mood I get from this collection (other than in a few of the looks, which pay slight homage to Kenzo's long established aesthetic).
It seems clear there is an effort here to steer the brand in another direction, and I don't know if it needs to be such a sharp veer away from what it has been, from its heritage.
__________________
Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
Based on the above (source: a pictoral retrospective at the Telegraph on Kenzo's 40th) I still maintain that this collection is "not [really] Kenzo" in the way that I have known it, even in the 70s. It has generally always had a boho, folksy, hippee, ethnic, laidback vibe, with lots of prints, knits and easy-to-wear pieces. It has never seemed downtown, clean, severe or edgy, imo, and that is the mood I get from this collection (other than in a few of the looks, which pay slight homage to Kenzo's long established aesthetic).
It seems clear there is an effort here to steer the brand in another direction, and I don't know if it needs to be such a sharp veer away from what it has been, from its heritage.
I think I was thrown off by the colors and prints and the few "Kenzo moments" it did have, which now seem shallow and insincere. I was trying too hard to like it, to give it the benefit of the doubt. It really is just an extension of what Opening Ceremony already does. This whole project is not that bad in and of itself until you think about how low it's brought Kenzo, making it into another contemporary pseudo-fashion brand. Fashion is changing, and clearly something like this is a sure sign of it, but now I wonder if these clothes, with the Kenzo label, with the Kenzo heritage, is really what the house needed to make it relevant again.
But I think you made a good point, Mutterlein: when Kenzo started the look they developed (and subsequently kept) was younger, with its boho and ethnic pulse very much on the street, as you rightly noted. It's just that this new collection scuttles the history of the brand and its long-since-honed aesthetic. That's likely what we all immediately reacted and objected to. Maybe this designer will right the ship next collection...And find the right balance between being faithful and revisionist.
__________________
Fashion: Don’t you recognize me? Death: You should know that I don’t see very well and I can’t wear glasses. Fashion: I’m Fashion, your sister. Death: My sister? Fashion: Yes. You and I together keep undoing and changing things down here on earth although you go about it in one way and I another. Giacomo Leopardi, “Dialogue Between Fashion and Death.”abridged
soooooo o.c. i want expensive quirky and worldly...
__________________
"The one thing that always scares me is to be like the Miss America of the moment, because next year there is a new Miss America" - Alber
I like the few Balenciaga-ish jackets, but the rest are simply ATROCIOUS. Although I'm not a hippy-boho type, I can appreciate the finesse that Kenzo brings. Why was Marras fired? Were they not selling?